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V6RACER

The true 8 Second 109!
Joined
May 30, 2001
Messages
2,890
I have been looking to get a TIG welder so I can fab up things without having to keep going back and forth to a welding shop. I already have a MIG welder for small steel jobs but I wanted a TIG for aluminum and better looking welds on steel items. I won't be doing production work so I didn't really want to buy a $3-4K welder.
Lincoln Welders had a display at the NHRA event at Gainesville this year and they were demostrating their new TIG welder part number K2535-2. It was a nice welder and the guy operating it (hired welder, not employee of Lincoln) said that it was definately one of the better welders out there now.

Welders Direct: NEW Lincoln Precision TIG 225 w/Cart


My question is: Has anyone used one of these and what are your thoughts?
 
Get this one:

Welders Direct: ArcMaster 185 AC/DC Package w/ Foot Control

It doesn't weigh 258 lbs; it weighs 40 lbs. It'll do everything that red one will. Go purple! You can find them on ebay also lightly used.

For more info, go to Hobart Welders and click on the weld chat forum. Do a search for TA185 and see how many people like them vs. Lincoln. However if you had to, buy a Miller since the name alone holds it value.
 
The Thermal Arc's are kick ass welders at real reasonable prices. Take a look at input power requirements for one of the Thermal invertors vs. the Syncro's. The invertor in the Thermals are the same as what Miller uses in their Dynasty line.

Compare the Thermal to Miller's Dynasty line.
 
I have to agree go with the Miller. I have a Miller Syncrowave 180 (the Syncrowave 200 replaced it) at the shop. It is a very nice unit. We have 4 welders in the shop 3 millers and 1 Lincoln. When we get ready to purchase a second Tig unit, it will be a Miller unit.
 
Arc master used to be Thermal arc. Which is BTW a great machine. Small and compact and will do 90% of the work the big ones will do. Ive had mine for 2 years now and experienced welders are impressed on how good it welds for being so compact. So far I have a set of headers, multiple down pipes,exhausts and metal brackets and crossmembers under my belt with this machine.
 
Any of these machines listed will do what you want to do. That said after 21 years in the trade the Miller would be my choice hands down for tig welding any material, especially for aluminum. I use one 6 days a week on aircraft ignition systems. It's the only machines we have in the plant.
 
I have a Miller dialarc HF 350. Stay with a Miller or Hobart. When I replace this machine it will be with a Syn Wave. The Miller Econo tig ( I have seen in many chassis shops) is a great machine for stainless and mild steel,CM, a little light for aluminum but will get most aluminum jobs done. For home I think would be the best bang for the buck. BTW big syn waves 4K you are just getting started. Make sure you get at least 200 amps 250 is even better and a chiller if you are looking to weld aluminum of any thickness. A 200 machine I think is hard pressed to go much more than .090 alum without pre-heat. If aluminum is your main focus buy as many amps as you can power at your house. You will need them.
 
The Thermal Arc's are kick ass welders at real reasonable prices. Take a look at input power requirements for one of the Thermal invertors vs. the Syncro's.

Good point you cant even use most of the syn waves at home because of power requirements. Mine is 220 single phase 120 amps :eek: May not sound like much. It will snap a 50 amp breaker as soon a you strike an arc. Most homes I think are only 200 amp service.
 
Another vote for Miller!

I weld aluminum all day long 6 days a week. Miller is the only way to go in my 13yrs experience. Hobart is also a nice unit to weld with.

You can also get refurbished Millers with warreny cheaper.
 
I've got a 300 amp Thermal that I've had for ~ 10 years now. Max input is like 60 amps, 220 single phase. A 50 amp dryer circuit will handle just about anything you want to weld with it.

With the wave shaping ability I can weld a cylinder head without pre heat, bare handed with my hands resting on the head.

There's also a 185 in the shop that will do .125" aluminum without any extra effort. These are great machines and like I said before, compare them to the Dynasty's in the Miller line. The Synchro's are too big, size wise for the average home shop.

I've always bought Miller migs but bang for the buck the Thermals were better Tig machines.
 
I use a Lincolon 175 TIG and have converted it to water cooled. I use tap water plumbed in with a refigerator ice maker kit and a coil of 1/4" copper tubing. It cost me about $30 for the kit plus $125 for the water cooled torch. I just turn on a valve partially only when welding aluminum or big steel projects. Thin tubing I leave the water off. With pre-heat (and post heat while the welder cools down;) :mad: ) I can weld 1/2" aluminum. I am going to upgrade to a 275+ Amp TIG soon though. I'll probably keep the 175amp for steel and stainless, and use the larger unit for easier manifold fabrication. The Lincoln has performed great for the last 5-6 years and am happy with it. If you are going to weld aluminum (other than I/C tubing) you will need to step up to a water cooled torch. If you don't, you will be buying air cooled torches frequently, because they tend to melt in your hand.:eek:
Here's what you can weld with a 175 AMP TIG.
 

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I unpacked the new TIG this weekend. I went with the Lincoln as it offered several features and up to 225 amp. I'll be testing it out once I get the electrical panel installed.
 
If you're gonna do lots of aluminum get yourself a water cooled set up. Stick with Miller.
 
Stick with Miller.

He was asking about a TIG welder not a STICK welder;) :biggrin: :p

I have used both Miller and Lincoln and they both perform well. I think that the difference is usually personal preference. They both melt pieces of metal real good. BUT...........I really don't know it all. (SHhhhhhhh)

I agree that you'll need a water cooled torch if you weld any aluminum other than intercooler plumbing.
 
Have you got any drawings or diagrams of that torch cooler you fabbed? I'd love to build one on the cheap also.
 
Go to Google, click on the pulldown "more", select groups, and do a search on the group "sci.engr.joining.welding" and subject "torch cool", and you will get lots of posts on homemade tig torch cooling systems. This is a great welding resource group, and one regular, Ernie Leimkuhler, is a fount of knowledge - he's been teaching welding and doing it professionally for about 30 years up in the northwest. Anyway, unless you are doing 100% duty cycle at 200+ amps for long periods, he says you don't need a chiller. Scrounge a used carbonator pump from a soda fountain, and plumb it up with a 5 gallon bucker of water as a reservoir, and it shouldn't ever get very warm. Worst case add a heater core as a radiator, and a fan. TIG torches need 50-60 psi on the water supply so low pressure pumps like pond pumps won't do. Make sure the carbonator pump has a bypass regulator and set it to about 60 psi.
 
I just plumbed it into my household water supply. AKA ice maker kit. I bought a water cooled torch kit and ran copper tubing to the side of my garage, and hooked it up through a shut off valve. Real simple and cheap. I have high water pressure, though.
 
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