new to these cars, what does it take to get to the 12's?
- Thread starter SpoolinUpGN
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What's it take to run 12's? Hehe...see my sig. 
That was on my second outing to the track in this car, on a 1.77 60ft. and on a set of small 235/60-15 BFG DR's. Had the tranny not started slipping on the last pass (and this seems to be fairly uncommon with the 200R4...I guess I'm just unlucky) I would have likely gotten another 12.
Total mods list is simple...and this is all of them...
1. Hotwired Walbro 340 fuel pump...$155
2. Poston's airbox base lid...$10
3. Billet inlet bell...$35 (used)
4. Cotton's 93 octane chip...$35 (used)
5. Hooker test pipe...$50
6. Convertor switch...$5
7. Fan switch, keeps coolant temps in check...$40
8. Adjustable wastegate actuator (only running 17psi)...$80
9. 160* t-stat...$10
10. Removed intercooler screen...free
11. A few gallons of Sunoco 100 octane splashed in the tank...
I have a Scanmaster and an Autometer boost gauge also. Aside from these items, I have about $400 into "go fast" parts. Next up for me, after Dynotech does the trans, is a Powerplate, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a few more pounds of boost. With the convertor I'm going to run, I think I'll get a solid mid-12 out of it...maybe a 12.5. Then I'll do the valvesprings and get a Hooker catback. I'd like to get as close to the 11's with the stock turbo, IC, injectors, DP, etc. as possible.
These cars are very strong through the 1/8th.
That was on my second outing to the track in this car, on a 1.77 60ft. and on a set of small 235/60-15 BFG DR's. Had the tranny not started slipping on the last pass (and this seems to be fairly uncommon with the 200R4...I guess I'm just unlucky) I would have likely gotten another 12.
Total mods list is simple...and this is all of them...
1. Hotwired Walbro 340 fuel pump...$155
2. Poston's airbox base lid...$10
3. Billet inlet bell...$35 (used)
4. Cotton's 93 octane chip...$35 (used)
5. Hooker test pipe...$50
6. Convertor switch...$5
7. Fan switch, keeps coolant temps in check...$40
8. Adjustable wastegate actuator (only running 17psi)...$80
9. 160* t-stat...$10
10. Removed intercooler screen...free
11. A few gallons of Sunoco 100 octane splashed in the tank...
I have a Scanmaster and an Autometer boost gauge also. Aside from these items, I have about $400 into "go fast" parts. Next up for me, after Dynotech does the trans, is a Powerplate, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a few more pounds of boost. With the convertor I'm going to run, I think I'll get a solid mid-12 out of it...maybe a 12.5. Then I'll do the valvesprings and get a Hooker catback. I'd like to get as close to the 11's with the stock turbo, IC, injectors, DP, etc. as possible.
These cars are very strong through the 1/8th.
SpoolinUpGN
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2002
- Messages
- 93
TQ Converter
Snorman,
Same here man, you are just the person I was hoping to meet, although I imagine there are many more than just your on this site! Thanks again for all your help, but where I quoted you here, I was wondering what torque converter you plan on running?
I have been looking into 2800-3000 stall, a 12" Street Brawler Orange that Jack sells @ Cotton Performance, anyone ever had any experience with this or if it is a good deal for $265?
Thanks guys!
Snorman,
Same here man, you are just the person I was hoping to meet, although I imagine there are many more than just your on this site! Thanks again for all your help, but where I quoted you here, I was wondering what torque converter you plan on running?
I have been looking into 2800-3000 stall, a 12" Street Brawler Orange that Jack sells @ Cotton Performance, anyone ever had any experience with this or if it is a good deal for $265?
Thanks guys!
Sounds like a similar convertor to what I'm going to run. This was recommended by Eric from Dynotech. I'll have more details on it this week. 
My only concern is that I'm going to start to have traction problems with these small DR's. Right now, they dead hook on a 4-5psi launch (ask the guy in the modded WRX at E-town... ), with a looser convertor, they may not hook. In that case, I'll go with a set of 275-60's.
As everybody else suggested, a 100+ octane "race chip" is an option, but I don't like the idea of killing O2 sensors with 2-3 tanks of fuel.
S.
My only concern is that I'm going to start to have traction problems with these small DR's. Right now, they dead hook on a 4-5psi launch (ask the guy in the modded WRX at E-town...
), with a looser convertor, they may not hook. In that case, I'll go with a set of 275-60's. As everybody else suggested, a 100+ octane "race chip" is an option, but I don't like the idea of killing O2 sensors with 2-3 tanks of fuel.
S.
That convertor should be okay - but Peformance Transmissions 9/11" is insane.
Heres the lowdown on my current setup
100K stock engine w/ new 100# valve spring, new timing chain, and HV front cover
Thasher 108 chip
LT1 maf and Translator Plus
PTS 9/11" 2800stall@0boost (lockup)
K/N filter - 3" Maf Pipe
3" Poston D/P
Hooker 2.5" duals w/test pipe
Walbro 340m (hotwired)
Smc Alky injection
One air bag on passenger side @ 30psi
Removed front sway bar
and 275/50 BFG DR's @ 15psi
Note: no posi
Leaving @ 1psi of boost and running 17psi the car went:
60" - 1.82
1/4 - 12.82
Mph - 106 and change
I had just started tuning the alky with the Thasher 108 and the boost was going to go up on the next pass - but someone hit the wall and I didn't get another pass. The car has alot left in it - I just need to get motivated and send my extender chip back in to be reburnt for stockers.
HTH
Jeremy
Heres the lowdown on my current setup
100K stock engine w/ new 100# valve spring, new timing chain, and HV front cover
Thasher 108 chip
LT1 maf and Translator Plus
PTS 9/11" 2800stall@0boost (lockup)
K/N filter - 3" Maf Pipe
3" Poston D/P
Hooker 2.5" duals w/test pipe
Walbro 340m (hotwired)
Smc Alky injection
One air bag on passenger side @ 30psi
Removed front sway bar
and 275/50 BFG DR's @ 15psi
Note: no posi
Leaving @ 1psi of boost and running 17psi the car went:
60" - 1.82
1/4 - 12.82
Mph - 106 and change
I had just started tuning the alky with the Thasher 108 and the boost was going to go up on the next pass - but someone hit the wall and I didn't get another pass. The car has alot left in it - I just need to get motivated and send my extender chip back in to be reburnt for stockers.
HTH
Jeremy
forcefed3.8's
Buckeye Bullet
- Joined
- May 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,845
Just to be safe with the tranny, add a shift kit and cooler. When I started going low 13's (in my 85), my 140,000 mile tranny started to go south.
SpoolinUpGN
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2002
- Messages
- 93
What do you guys suggest as a good tranny cooler? If i add a shift kit, like Bruce's valve body kit, is this something I should definately get? Thanks for all the replies guys, later
Well, in some cases I guess you're right.
I tuned a friends car at Etown a couple seasons ago. STOCK long block..never had the valve covers off, STOCK turbo, no special inlet bell, nothing, 009's, cold air kit, XP pump, adj reg, hooker cat back (disconnected for racing), race gas, my race chip, slicks and it went 12.49 on 22-23psi
Corked up it sounds like a caddy. We've since put a TA61 and 3200 converter in it, went to the track and went 12.6 on 275-50- 17 (Might be 16's, I forget now) Nitto's spinning to 330. My pal got discouraged that the car slowed down, and wouldnt buy that it was because he couldnt launch with those tires. His car was actually pictured in a GMHTP shootout article in GMHTP awhile back
Another pal I set up has TA61, 3200 stall, 009's, 3 angle valve job, Dutt neck, adj FPR, XP, Cold air, and we've gotten it down to a 11.48 best pass on ET Streets on 24-25psi
Its not hard to make these cars fly. Just use common sense and tune each step prior to going out and buying that latest and greatest huge turbo you dont need for your 12 sec car with the hopes it'll get you that 10 sec slip. (Thats an exaggeration for you slow people...but you know what I mean)
SpoolinUpGN
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2002
- Messages
- 93
Sorry!
sorry about that! It's a joke with a few of my friends, we played around with it in Photoshop 7.0 and decided to give it a 3" drop, haha. The GTA Wheels look pretty awesome though, wouldn't you agree?
Hey guys, since I have been getting all my questions answered so great from you guys, here is one more. What is a turbo inlet bell? Is this one of the modifications you can do to a stock turbo? Are there any other mods for the stock turbo?
sorry about that! It's a joke with a few of my friends, we played around with it in Photoshop 7.0 and decided to give it a 3" drop, haha. The GTA Wheels look pretty awesome though, wouldn't you agree?
Hey guys, since I have been getting all my questions answered so great from you guys, here is one more. What is a turbo inlet bell? Is this one of the modifications you can do to a stock turbo? Are there any other mods for the stock turbo?
Phew...the wheels look good, the lowrider look doesn't.
An inlet bell bolts to the inlet side of the turbo. It slides onto two studs on the compressor housing. Several of the vendors sell a billet inlet bell, which is simply a nicely machined bell that doesn't have the inlet for the OEM oil vapor recovery system.
While on the topic, one of the first things you should do is ditch the factory breathers. The one running from the passenger side valve cover plumbs into the inlet bell. This causes oil to build up in the intercooler, reducing it's efficiency. The aftermarket kit simply replaces the passenger side contraption with a small breather in the front of the valve cover. You'll also get a rubber cap (or you can buy one at a hardware store) to plug the hole in the inlet bell. Alternatively, you can buy an aftermarket bell and eliminate the inlet opening entirely. After putting on the aftermarket breathers, pull out the intercooler and clean it very thoroughly with sensor safe carb/throttle body cleaner. When reinstalling, replace the flimsy OEM hoses to and from the IC and the TB with a set of sturdy aftermarket hoses.
People port the stock turbos and also the stock exhaust elbow (from turbo to the DP). I'm not entirely sure of the gains by porting the turbo housing, but the ported elbow looks like cheap speed to me, and may be something I do in the very near future.
S.
An inlet bell bolts to the inlet side of the turbo. It slides onto two studs on the compressor housing. Several of the vendors sell a billet inlet bell, which is simply a nicely machined bell that doesn't have the inlet for the OEM oil vapor recovery system.
While on the topic, one of the first things you should do is ditch the factory breathers. The one running from the passenger side valve cover plumbs into the inlet bell. This causes oil to build up in the intercooler, reducing it's efficiency. The aftermarket kit simply replaces the passenger side contraption with a small breather in the front of the valve cover. You'll also get a rubber cap (or you can buy one at a hardware store) to plug the hole in the inlet bell. Alternatively, you can buy an aftermarket bell and eliminate the inlet opening entirely. After putting on the aftermarket breathers, pull out the intercooler and clean it very thoroughly with sensor safe carb/throttle body cleaner. When reinstalling, replace the flimsy OEM hoses to and from the IC and the TB with a set of sturdy aftermarket hoses.
People port the stock turbos and also the stock exhaust elbow (from turbo to the DP). I'm not entirely sure of the gains by porting the turbo housing, but the ported elbow looks like cheap speed to me, and may be something I do in the very near future.
S.
