You should be concerned. You already have a chip and injector combo that is proven to work on your car. There is no reason to think that they are the cause of your problem. You have serious vacuum leaks that would likely be the cause of your problem. When you fix them,they will make a dramatic difference and you didn't check WOT fuel pressure yet.
New Turbo Buick Owner - Frustrated with Knock read from Scanmaster, help appreciated
- Thread starter Hatdragracer
- Start date
You should be concerned. You already have a chip and injector combo that is proven to work on your car. There is no reason to think that they are the cause of your problem. You have serious vacuum leaks that would likely be the cause of your problem. When you fix them,they will make a dramatic difference and you didn't check WOT fuel pressure yet.
Hatdragracer
Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2012
I verified with the part number that they are Bosch 36lb/hr injectors...I may be a worry wart, but the rail mounted fuel pressure gauge has teflon tape on one of the connections, I had always assumed that that was a bad idea as little teflon chunks can plug an injector right?
I have not bought injectors or a chip yet....still working on the spring cleaning....I have put my other project aside and now plan to take my sweet time with this.
Removed the intercooler today per the spring cleaning website mentioned in a prior post...also noticed a signifigant oil leak on the turbo oil drain and an exhaust leak on the 3-bolt flange between the manifold/Turbo.
Also the rear most port on the vacuum block has a hose going to a brass fitting that slides down into the floor of the intake manifold. I mention it because it seems to be leaking onto the floor of the intake, as well there was oil in the vacuum block and the inside of the plenum and intake seemed to have an oil coat. I have never seen any smoke out of the car, just wondering what is normal.
Hatdragracer
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- Joined
- Jul 2, 2012
I will get a WOT fuel press when it is running again and I am comfortable doing another WOT run
...Also the rear most port on the vacuum block has a hose going to a brass fitting that slides down into the floor of the intake manifold. I mention it because it seems to be leaking onto the floor of the intake, as well there was oil in the vacuum block and the inside of the plenum and intake seemed to have an oil coat. I have never seen any smoke out of the car, just wondering what is normal.
The factory PCV valve goes where that brass fitting is. That brass piece looks like an RJC style pcv valve replacement. They work well for keeping boost out of the crankcase but some have had issues with BL's b/c they don't always meter vacuum correctly. I use a factory PCV AND one of these checkball style ones inline between pcv and vacuum block to meter vacuum properly AND keep boost out of the crankcase. It's still common for oil to get onto the intake though as it gets forced out around the grommet, especially with lots o' boost! Life begins at 20psi with these cars. We'll have you pushing oil soon.
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
When you have a chance list the mods that you see to the car. Actually going through the engine like this is really the best way to deal with the car. You'll learn about it and fix the items that are worn/broken/mismatched.
groumoutis
Active Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2009
I would bet fixing these vacuum leaks will cure your problems. I had a bad pcv and a leaking vac line and my car kept showing knock but still drove fine until I gave it some fast pedal. My knock wasn't anywhere near as bad as yours. I would get 1.4 degrees before running Alky. Once I found my leaks I changed out all the rubber tubing and let the ECM relearn and all was good. After running the car for the rest of the summer to ensure it was all good I put the Alky on the car and it has ran good since. Did I just really say that? I am soooo screwed now.
The MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator and engine were not on the same page as the MAF sensor so the engine was all jacked up. Just like if the up pipe from the intercooler comes off the MAF is showing more air than the engine is actually getting. I would just go through and check all the tubing and the hoses from the MAF all the way to the throttle body. Any unmetered air going in or going out will make the engine run like chit. I wouldn't change the chip (yet but I would change it soon) and injectors until you know exactly what the problem is. That is just my opinion but my wife is a "I told you so" like yours. If given the opportunity to prove her wrong I would do it.
The MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator and engine were not on the same page as the MAF sensor so the engine was all jacked up. Just like if the up pipe from the intercooler comes off the MAF is showing more air than the engine is actually getting. I would just go through and check all the tubing and the hoses from the MAF all the way to the throttle body. Any unmetered air going in or going out will make the engine run like chit. I wouldn't change the chip (yet but I would change it soon) and injectors until you know exactly what the problem is. That is just my opinion but my wife is a "I told you so" like yours. If given the opportunity to prove her wrong I would do it.
Hatdragracer
Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2012
Good way to say it...that is definitely what was going on.
Since Sunday:
Found that the rubber connector to the MAP sensor was rotten and likely leaking
I did buy a TT chip and injectors..I know many experienced folks here wanted me to put the current injectors on it....but I want to run a known chip and injectors, from reading about the adjustabiltiy of the TT chip I was sold.
I also realized that the car didn't have a hotwire kit as I had previously thought so I did invest in one of those.
Since the exhaust and turbo oil drain lines were leaking I pulled the turbo. The horizontal shaft play is nearly nil....but the turbine side with little force from my thumb can be made to have turbine blades contact the housing....is that normal?
Also...there was no gasket between the DP and the Turbo...I know they sell them....what are the pros/cons to running a DP gasket?
You didn't have a problem with your chip and injectors,but you bought some anyway. Since you didn't have a problem with your down pipe to turbine housing seal,I recommend a copper gasket that will come loose.
Please send your junk chip and injectors to me. I'll install them on my car. I'll pay for shipping. You can't sell them because you don't know that they are good. Let me know if you are willing to do this.
Please send your junk chip and injectors to me. I'll install them on my car. I'll pay for shipping. You can't sell them because you don't know that they are good. Let me know if you are willing to do this.
Hatdragracer
Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2012
You didn't have a problem with your chip and injectors,but you bought some anyway. Since you didn't have a problem with your down pipe to turbine housing seal,I recommend a copper gasket that will come loose.
Please send your junk chip and injectors to me. I'll install them on my car. I'll pay for shipping. You can't sell them because you don't know that they are good. Let me know if you are willing to do this.
Ttype6....I do take your advice very seriously and I know how frustrating it must be to have a Newb asking for advice and then ignoring it, but from what I have gleaned from this site and other members and the PO this is a good upgrade for what I want to do with the car...and very inexpensive compared to a BS3 or Fast !! Also..I never said the chip/injectors are junk...just unknown to me if the chip is programmed to the injectors.
Appreciate the help, and sorry if I upset you ...I am taking your remarks as sarcasm...and that the DP gasket is a bad idea.
I really would like you to send the chip and injectors to me so I can test them.
I don't have any gaskets anywhere on my exhaust and it will come loose if you put a copper gasket on.
You're getting to know your car and that's a good thing.
[quote="
Also the rear most port on the vacuum block has a hose going to a brass fitting that slides down into the floor of the intake manifold. I mention it because it seems to be leaking onto the floor of the intake, as well there was oil in the vacuum block and the inside of the plenum and intake seemed to have an oil coat. I have never seen any smoke out of the car, just wondering what is normal.
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Thought I would throw in my $.02 here. I bought the same RJC pcv valve and after installing it my BLM's shot up all the way to 150 and the car ran like crap... I had to put my stock pcv valve back on.. Try taking the RJC valve out of the intake and plug the line to see if your BLMs normalize to near 128... It also looks like you are missing the rubber grommet that goes in the hole and secures the pcv in place thus causing the oil leak in the area. hope this solves your problem as it did for me.
I think Highway Stars sells the grommet and stock pcv valve pretty cheaply..
Also the rear most port on the vacuum block has a hose going to a brass fitting that slides down into the floor of the intake manifold. I mention it because it seems to be leaking onto the floor of the intake, as well there was oil in the vacuum block and the inside of the plenum and intake seemed to have an oil coat. I have never seen any smoke out of the car, just wondering what is normal.
Thought I would throw in my $.02 here. I bought the same RJC pcv valve and after installing it my BLM's shot up all the way to 150 and the car ran like crap... I had to put my stock pcv valve back on.. Try taking the RJC valve out of the intake and plug the line to see if your BLMs normalize to near 128... It also looks like you are missing the rubber grommet that goes in the hole and secures the pcv in place thus causing the oil leak in the area. hope this solves your problem as it did for me.
I think Highway Stars sells the grommet and stock pcv valve pretty cheaply..
Hatdragracer
Member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2012
I am glad you did...I was searching other posts and saw that a few threads that indicated that oil ingestion can cause problems with high BLM's and knock. I have not researched how the RJC is different from a normal PCV but from what the previous poster suggested that the RJC has a check ball designed to keep boost out of the crankcase and that he had success using both the RJC and a PCV valve.
My car has vents with filters on both rocker covers as well...so I have some time to use the search function and figure out what will make sense for my crankcase fumes system.
The RJC valve is actually a check valve that doesn't let boost get blown into the engine. The stock PCV will leak boost into the motor and possibly cause oil leaks. I've even heard of some blowing out the rear main seal. That's the reason I think WE4Mateo uses a stock pcv valve with an inline check valve. The RJC valve in my case and in the case of Len8827 right above your last post caused considerable problems. That's why I suggested that you plug it and check your scanmaster numbers after doing it. Most everyone goes with those two breathers on the valve covers. The stock crankcase ventilation system was connected to the turbo and oil was inevitable sucked into the turbo/intercooler/ up pipes etc..
One easy thing you could try is to put your hand around one of the vents on the valve covers and see if you can feel any air being sucked in. My RJC valve literally made my hand get stuck on the passenger side breather...lol..
One easy thing you could try is to put your hand around one of the vents on the valve covers and see if you can feel any air being sucked in. My RJC valve literally made my hand get stuck on the passenger side breather...lol..
what hotwire kit did you get?
Also if you look close it looks like the gromet is their but its grey like someone painted it at one point in time. Look at the hole size, its the same size as the rjc valve/ pcv? hole would be alot bigger if it was missing.
Also i would check the pump just to make sure its up to task. i wouldn't want to run a stock pump or old pump IMOP. just good to know whats in the tank.
Also as for the injectors and chip, im glad to see you got a chip for your setup. the injectors might not have been needed but you know they are fresh and that part of the system is done. could you have goten away with the old chip and injectors yes but with the adjustability of the TT chip i say its a good move.
Also if you look close it looks like the gromet is their but its grey like someone painted it at one point in time. Look at the hole size, its the same size as the rjc valve/ pcv? hole would be alot bigger if it was missing.
Also i would check the pump just to make sure its up to task. i wouldn't want to run a stock pump or old pump IMOP. just good to know whats in the tank.
Also as for the injectors and chip, im glad to see you got a chip for your setup. the injectors might not have been needed but you know they are fresh and that part of the system is done. could you have goten away with the old chip and injectors yes but with the adjustability of the TT chip i say its a good move.
