Newby SM Reading help

[Charles Young]

I bought my first GN this summer and am trying to figure things out. I installed a vac/boost gage. It already had a SM. The car has an Extender Chip, Translator Plus, RJC Power Plate, 42 lb injectors, ATR exhaust and runs 93 octane. Here's my SM readings at idle, a few minutes after start-up. Vac gauge at 16.
O2 695
AF 03
LB 34
bAt 13.9
Int 128
bL 115
CLt 142
AtS 81
r 825
tPS .44
IAC 22
cc 229
PL 2.7
SP 25.0

Does anything look too far off?

Here's my other question that concerns me a bit.
I have seen boost go to about 18 and did not note any KR over about 1; however, I finally figured out the recall mode on the SM and went out to take a few readings. Just a short run or two for no more than a couple hundred yards and really no faster than about 65 MPH. On one run I saw this that I don't like. Recorded an O2 reading of 566 at 45 mph and KR 3.5 at 57 mph. Those numbers look real low for O2 and high for KR. Fuel pressure at idle is around 43 but I don't have a way to check FP at speed.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks!

 

[GNONYX]

In order for anyone to help you, you need to write down all of the parameters of the ScanMaster in a column formation, when the engine is at normal temperature.

 

[Charles Young]

In order for anyone to help you, you need to write down all of the parameters of the ScanMaster in a column formation, when the engine is at normal temperature.

I know, I was trying to do this and accidentaly hit "post" I guess. Sorry, please see edit above.
Actually, rereading what you said, my numbers above may not be at normal temp yet but hopefully warmed enough to be informative.
Thanks!

 

[GNONYX]

You can read both of these great info and it will give you more of what the ScanMaster readings are displaying
http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/Scantool_Readings.htm
http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/basics.htm#Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment
Your TPS is a bit high, close to 42 and the IAC is between 10-20 some would say 22 is not that bad
I would check on why you are having KR reading of 3.5
What was your O2 reading at WOT?
Check and see if any metal is touching or near each other that would cause the KR reading

 

[Charles Young]

You can read both of these great info and it will give you more of what the ScanMaster readings are displaying
http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/Scantool_Readings.htm
http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/basics.htm#Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment
Your TPS is a bit high, close to 42 and the IAC is between 10-20 some would say 22 is not that bad
I would check on why you are having KR reading of 3.5
What was your O2 reading at WOT?
Check and see if any metal is touching or near each other that would cause the KR reading

Thanks for the articles, very informative! Still trying to sort out your other sugestions. What do you mean by "check and see if ay metal is touching..."?
Thanks again.

 

[Boston GN]

Thanks for the articles, very informative! Still trying to sort out your other sugestions. What do you mean by "check and see if ay metal is touching..."?
Thanks again.

He means to check to see if there could be anything that could be banging around or into each other. An example would be the downpipe hitting the frame. Anything that could possibly cause a false reading at the knock sensor.

 

[Charles Young]

Can't find anything moving/banging around that might cause a false KR problem. Here's a dumb question. Per my instructions, the Scanmaster only records the lowest O2 reading after TPS goes above 3, right? So when someone says "What was your O2 reading at WOT?", is that the reading they are talking about or am I looking for another reading I would see from watching the display?
Also, if the O2 reading is very low but with no KR it seems likely I may have a fuel delivery problem, I think. I don't have a gage to check fuel pressure at WOT but I believe my pump is original. I'm thinking the pump would likely benefit from an upgrade even if it isn't causing an immediate problem. Any more input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[GNONYX]

Personally, before you go WOT, you need to do more spring cleaning and some upgrade since you only mention the car has an Extender Chip, Translator Plus, RJC Power Plate, 42 lb injectors, ATR exhaust and runs 93 octane.
You didn't mention if you have a adjustable fuel regulator, hot-wire kit, and original cam sprocket (which has nylon on the gears), boost gauge, and a fuel gauge, ( can be place on the fuel rail).
How many miles on the engine?
Here is more site to help you understand more basic info
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/index.html
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

 

[Charles Young]

Personally, before you go WOT, you need to do more spring cleaning and some upgrade since you only mention the car has an Extender Chip, Translator Plus, RJC Power Plate, 42 lb injectors, ATR exhaust and runs 93 octane.
You didn't mention if you have a adjustable fuel regulator, hot-wire kit, and original cam sprocket (which has nylon on the gears), boost gauge, and a fuel gauge, ( can be place on the fuel rail).
How many miles on the engine?
Here is more site to help you understand more basic info
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/index.html
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

Thanks GNONYX - I'm doing lots of reading and will review the links you have posted. The car is a 54k mile car. It does have a Kirban FP regulator, hot-wire kit, FP gage under the hood only and I just installed an Autometer boost/vac gage. Don't know about the cam sprocket. I haven't run across that discussion yet. Is it the same as the cam sensor?? I believe that has been changed since I have some info on it in file from PO.

 

[GNONYX]

Many has replaced the timing chain and cam sprocket since the cam gear made of nylon, and with age, and heat can cause the nylon gear to break off, and create more damage to engine.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/7_thru_8.htm (look on 2nd photo #2 this is cam sprocket gear)
If it hasn't then you're bless if the rear mail seal is not leaking since it's still has rope to seal in the oil.
If you still getting KR, I would turn down the boost until no KR is measure since you can't see nothing that might be touching.