nitrous initial turbo spool

[karolko]

alirght, so i have looked at alot of the threads on the site and i haven't found much teaching people about how others have programmed their nitrous kits to work for nitrous assisted launching.

i would like to upgrade from my t66 bb turbo to a gtq70 but i do not want to loosen up my converter too much to loose its streetablitiy.

help me out.


sorry if this is a vaigue question. my head is all over the place right now.


Adrian

 

[Razor]

35 wet shot. Throttle switch to activate. Hobbs switch set to 10 PSI(or whatever) to deactivate.

You mash the throttle.. system comes on.. hits 10 PSI.. shuts off.

Of use an RPM window switch to activate.. and hobbs to deactivate.

many ways to do this.

On my XFI I would use the Aux2 to activate based on TPS and RPM, and then use my Aux4 to deactivate based on Boost PSI.

Then you get the bottle warmers, pressure guages, purge, etc etc etc... as complicated as you want to make it.

HTH

 

[Alky V6]

alirght, so i have looked at alot of the threads on the site and i haven't found much teaching people about how others have programmed their nitrous kits to work for nitrous assisted launching.

i would like to upgrade from my t66 bb turbo to a gtq70 but i do not want to loosen up my converter too much to loose its streetablitiy.

help me out.


sorry if this is a vaigue question. my head is all over the place right now.


Adrian

Adrian! Calm down! You don't want your head all over the place when your putting together your nitrous system. You might blow something up!

Razor put down some very good suggestions. If you need more help, we're here.

 

[karolko]

alright, Donnie i am not going go crazy, but i sure am close

Razor, your suggestion sounds great. simple. i like that. now, let me further my question, first of all is a 35hp shot enough to help drastically reduce spool,

also when i am staging, and the nitrous spraying, boost will build uber fast will it not? does it change the entire staging game?

next question, with a simple setup, should i just plumb up the straight fuel and let the fuel pressure gauge but the amount of fuel, or would it be better to tap inot the methonal i also have? if so how? and will it also have to increasing in pressure as boost increases.

sigh, is that too much.

slowly, the path is getting clearer.


thanks Boys,

 

[Razor]

alright, Donnie i am not going go crazy, but i sure am close

Razor, your suggestion sounds great. simple. i like that. now, let me further my question, first of all is a 35hp shot enough to help drastically reduce spool,

also when i am staging, and the nitrous spraying, boost will build uber fast will it not? does it change the entire staging game?

next question, with a simple setup, should i just plumb up the straight fuel and let the fuel pressure gauge but the amount of fuel, or would it be better to tap inot the methonal i also have? if so how? and will it also have to increasing in pressure as boost increases.

sigh, is that too much.

slowly, the path is getting clearer.


thanks Boys,

Start on a wet 35. You dont need meth for a 35.. also remember your not running "big Boost" just spooling to get the motor over the hump. If you want it to spool faster.. bump the jet to a 50. Its only a few bucks. Gasoline is easy and rite there.

Yes it makes a difference. Probably pay for itself by the time you figure it wont burn down the tranny staying on the converter as long.

 

[karolko]

razor, i am running your progressive kit, so when staging and with nitrous running, the alky will also be spraying, will the addition of that much of a cooler charge reduce my power output of a 35hp shot?

Also how would you stage a car with a nitrous shot? would you just footbrake as much as you could? hummmm. getting very excited.

i read one of Donnie's other posts about the narrow margin for gas compared to Methanol with regards to the "safe zone" will this be a important thing for such a small shot, or is it negligable.


what ratio would you use for a small shot like this. i would like to set it andforget it if possible. not changing out jets every track night...

fill me in.

which kit do you use or recommend?


thanks

 

[Razor]

Think your making a mountain out of a mole hill

Simple NOS system wet. If the 35 doesnt do it the 50 will.. if that doesnt.. the 75 will.. all your doing is getting the boost over the hump.. meaning the nitrous is on like 2 seconds and activating at low boost.. shutting off at low boost. On my car i'd activate at 2400 RPM's and shut it down at 8 PSI. At 8 PSI your meth amount is nill.

Way different spraying all the way down the track.. then you can NASA space shuttle this. Truth is your converter is too tight.. and it would probably be cheaper to restall the converter.

 

[Alky V6]

Adrian. Every cars tuneup can be very unique. I have a feeling a lot of people on this board are in the same boat with you. They're getting their feet wet. Those that have some good experience so far may not be eager to pass that knowledge on for fear that what worked for them might blow your sxxt up. If I were new to nitrous, this is what I would do:
a) Research
b) Research
c) Research

There are many many books available that will give you a good knowledge base for using nitrous. Not to mention BBs and nitrous sites and companies that can help you out.

I think more and more people are getting into nitrous for spooling, but the GN crowd is way behind the learning curve compared to other special interest groups. I'm mainly referring to the import crowd. You may be able to learn more from BBs catering to Supras for instance.

Razor gave you some very good base suggestions. Where you go from there with it, such as launching stradegy, how big of a hit, playing with alcohol, to me those sound like questions that need to be answered by doing.

I wish I could be more help. My system is so radically advanced compared to what the average street GN would need, I'm a little out of my realm when someone asks for a simple, cheap nitrous system for their GN. I do plan on working on one for our WE4 that is using Razor's kit, but that is down the road some.

All I can say for now is that I cannot improve on the suggestions that Razor gave. And please, start out simple and work the system up carefully. It's very easy to change jets in a single nozzle. There is no excuse to not start out small and work up into it.

When you calculate your jet sizes to set your nitrous/fuel ratio ALWAYS start out on the rich side. Like I said, changing jets is easy. Replacing melted or broken pistons, not so easy.

If your converter stall is too low, don't worry. The nitrous will make that a non-issue. I'm running a 2,400 stall at 0 boost. Changing the stall is not even a consideration in my case.

 

[karolko]

okay i must admit, i am making this soo much more complicated than it need to be.

last couple of questions: where can i get a hobbs switch and rpm activation switch.

lastly, could you also let me know where would be the ideal place to mount the nitrous nozzle? how far away from the throttle body?

 

[Razor]

Don is dead on.

MSD, nitrous express, ebay, Summit, etc... for the window/rpm switch.. A lot of guys would source the Hobbs from NAPA... use the search function. Ebay has vendors list them as boost switches=hobbs switch.

Then play with it.. after reading and contacting various Nitrous system MFG's.

 

[karolko]

Very good advice Donnie and Julio. i will take it to heart and try her out this spring.

i would also like to thank you both for taking the time out to help me with this idea of mine.

Adrian

 

[karolko]

what would be a good timing number to start at.

i have a msd dis 4 as well, but i think that is overkill for these low boost applications with nitrous

 

[Black Power]

Yeah these guys are right, it's not as complicated as you are making it :wink:

I PROMISE you will feel a 35 shot, yes it will help. If it's not enough, like they said, hit it with more nitrous. A 35 out of the hole will help out more than you might think.

 

[Alky V6]

what would be a good timing number to start at.

i have a msd dis 4 as well, but i think that is overkill for these low boost applications with nitrous

The standard is to retard timing 2 degrees for every 50 shot of nitrous. This is one of those tid bits of information you will learn from reading that library of nitrous books you'll soon have. Right?
If the nitrous is being used to spool only, it should shut off before 2 seconds. For a 50 shot that is on for only 2 seconds, as long as the a/f is on the rich side, I wouldn't worry about retarding the timing at all. If you want to be safe, go ahead and retard it.

 

[cdsttype]

I RUN AN 80MM ON A 235 INCH I USE A RPM WINDOW SWITCH
ON AT 3000 RPM OFF AT 4000 RPM ONLY RUNS WHEN T BRAKE
IS ON. WHEN USING THE FOOT BRAKE YOU COULD USE THE
BRAKE SWITCH TO ENABLE THE RELAY.I USE A 75 WET SHOT
ON THE LOG IT SPRAYS FOR ONE SECOND I CAN ACHEIVE
A LAUNCH BOOST OF 15PSI IN 8 TENTHS OF A SECOND.
IT IS AS EASY AS THAT.

 

[karolko]

This is one of those tid bits of information you will learn from reading that library of nitrous books you'll soon have. Right?

YES!!! currently 1000's on miles away from any type of library so internet info is the only i can start learning from.., it's a start.

Last night i was thinking of how to wire in the tps switch, rpm window switch and hobbs switch. could i just wire them in series, so that if one of the three variables is not met then the nitrous would not fire??? simple but effective right?

 

[Alky V6]

This is one of those tid bits of information you will learn from reading that library of nitrous books you'll soon have. Right?

YES!!! currently 1000's on miles away from any type of library so internet info is the only i can start learning from.., it's a start.

Last night i was thinking of how to wire in the tps switch, rpm window switch and hobbs switch. could i just wire them in series, so that if one of the three variables is not met then the nitrous would not fire??? simple but effective right?

Yes. You should also wire in a master kill switch (controlled by you and easily accessable sitting in the drivers seat) in series with all that too.

cdsttype. Your setup sounds ideal. I love it. When the rpm switch turns off the nitrous while on the transbrake, does the engine power and rpm drop any or does the turbo maintain the power level OK on its own?

The 'on' switch point for the rpm switch could safely be as low as 2,400 rpm.
The 'on' switch point for the rpm switch should be tied to the stall speed at 0 boost of the torque converter for the particular engine/converter combination. It could be hard on the torque converter to have the nitrous turn on at 2,400 rpm with a torque converter that stalls at 3,800 at 0 boost. Besides, when using nitrous to spool, you no longer need that high of a stall speed at 0 boost/no nitrous. As an example. My T/C that stalls at 2,400 rpm @ 0 boost/no nitrous will stall at 3,350 rpm on the nitrous within a blink of an eye and up to 4,300 rpm as the turbo quickly spools and helps out with some boost.

 

[cdsttype]

I Wired The Control Side Of The Relay To The Rpm Window
Switch.(low Amp Draw) The Output Side I Powered With T Brake Button.(high Amp Draw)
If You Dont Have A T Brake You Could Use The Foot Brake Switch.

 

[cdsttype]

She Rocks On Until It Hits The 2 Step.
The Big Block Boys Would F--- With Me
In My Heads Up Open Class That I Run.
Now I Say Bring It On I Can Be On Boost When I Need To
Period.

 

[Alky V6]

She Rocks On Until It Hits The 2 Step.
The Big Block Boys Would F--- With Me
In My Heads Up Open Class That I Run.
Now I Say Bring It On I Can Be On Boost When I Need To
Period.

How cool is that! Sounds like something I'll be looking into incorporating into my system. Thanks for sharing.

Once you've hit the 2 step, do you have a problem of dropping rpm and having the nos activate again on you? Or is your 2 step set quite a bit higher than your 4000 turn off point?