No boost...The title says it all

[Hatdragracer]

I have seen a situation where the puck would move freely when not attached to the turbo...but with the downpipe bolted up the geometry of the actuator and puck would cause it to bind.

When it did give a no boost condition we would unhook the actuator and rapidly open/close the puck and after a few tries the puck arm would move to a more closed position.

We would then try to hold it at that most closed position while reinstalling the actuator arm.

This would do the trick for a few months or so until it decided to bind again for some reason.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[Heisenberg]

Well - here is my latest update

Last ditch efforts.

I thought I would simply see if the turbo was spinning at idle.
Everyone says it should.
OK - so...

Easy.
MAF pipe off.

No spin.
The car barely can stay running without the MAF - and I have to goose it to keep it running - which I found just a little odd - but whatever.

Anyway - no spin - at all.
Now - if I put my finger in and touch the compressor wheel - it is - as I have said before - "tight" - in other words I have to work it with my finger to get it free and be able to spin.
Once I do that - it spins pretty freely.
At that point, as in the past posts- a blow gun set to about 40 psi will make the turbine spin (exhaust side - of course)
However - this "stuck" condition has me thinking maybe Bryan is right - and I have a turbo problem.
Could it be that the bearing is gone and it simply is "seized"

What I didn't do - since my helper had to go - is break the compressor turbine loose with my finger, restart the car, and see if the turbo spun.
Rats.

But - the situation as the car sits now - is the one that is most common.
Car sitting overnight or for extended period of time.
Turbine feels "stuck"

What anyone say?

 

[Heisenberg]

I have seen a situation where the puck would move freely when not attached to the turbo...but with the downpipe bolted up the geometry of the actuator and puck would cause it to bind.

When it did give a no boost condition we would unhook the actuator and rapidly open/close the puck and after a few tries the puck arm would move to a more closed position.

We would then try to hold it at that most closed position while reinstalling the actuator arm.

This would do the trick for a few months or so until it decided to bind again for some reason.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Puck and puck arm is good.
I've been over it a dozen times.
Actuator - good.
Same

 

[Heisenberg]

Not liking how this thing runs - or doesn't want to run with the MAF pipe off.

Creative ideas on connecting some sort of temporary MAF pipe, but with something clear that I can see the turbine?
3" MAF pipe

 

[hiboom]

There. Isn't really a bearing in there it's more of a brass bushing if the shaft is bent a little it mite be causing drag on it or it it has excessive in play the thrust bearing behind the inducer wheel will get scared and chewed up also causing drag the shaft bushing will have a little up and down play so oil can lubricate the shaft if at any time at doesn't spin freely you have some issue there

 

[Heisenberg]

Yes - I meant to say - the "sleeve" or the bushing if you will.

Very little end play, and what I would consider "normal" side to side play.

But - at rest - it does not spin freely.
I requires a little bit of back and forth with my finger - then it spins rather freely.
Odd

 

[Heisenberg]

Yes - I meant to say - the "sleeve" or the bushing if you will.

Very little end play, and what I would consider "normal" side to side play.

But - at rest - it does not spin freely.
I requires a little bit of back and forth with my finger - then it spins rather freely.
Odd

TE 49 by the way.
I think.

 

[hiboom]

your persistence will pay off eventually, by the time you figure out all the problems that arise with these cars and your driving down the road and you feel a little gleach you say I know what that is without even having to troubleshoot LOL !It's not like you can just take it down the street to the shop and say fix it would come back more screwed up then what it was before you took it (not in all cases)I've layed on the shoulder of a busy 4 lane highway at 3:00 in the morning putting a crank sensor on. so i feel your frustration

 

[Heisenberg]

your persistence will pay off eventually, by the time you figure out all the problems that arise with these cars and your driving down the road and you feel a little gleach you say I know what that is without even having to troubleshoot LOL !It's not like you can just take it down the street to the shop and say fix it would come back more screwed up then what it was before you took it (not in all cases)I've layed on the shoulder of a busy 4 lane highway at 3:00 in the morning putting a crank sensor on. so i feel your frustration

I've been thru it with a fine tooth comb.

So far - I've found:
Actuator bracket loose
Split MAP to tubing coupler
Split MAP coupler to hardline
Hairline crack in MAF hardline
PCV blowing by like crazy
No tie wrap and a poorly angled cut on the end of my turbine housing (vacuum) hose
No tie wraps on my hoses at Heater control / Cruise servo check valve
Leaking check valve at the vapor canister
Slight leak at vacuum block
Slight leak at IAC gasket
And I probably missed something. I mean forgot to write about it. I've found every major and minor thing in the vacuum / boost system.

And if you looked at my engine - you'll see this is not some rat bag POS that never sees love.
I maintain it well - and yet still found these things.

And yet - after all that - I still can not get the one thing to work that I need.
Boost.
I'm going to rig up a clear 3" MAF pipe extension so I can run my MAF - keep the engine running - and still watch and see if the turbine spins after I free it up with my finger.
No extra set of eyes.

Crazy

 

[turbot990]

Intercooler may have split open a bit.

 

[Heisenberg]

Intercooler may have split open a bit.

Not so.
Just a bad guess.
Please read the previous posts.

I used this - and trust me - I have found every microscopic leak in the entire intake system under 25 PSI - using leak detector.
IC - is fine.

 

[hiboom]

If you reach in there with your finger and give it a spin and it doesn't spin 2 revolutions freely I'd say thats your problem if you have to wiggle it a little to free up to make it spin you got something wrong it you can push backwards on the wheel on the intake (air) side and the wheel becomes harder to turn or feels gritty that's not correct either I'm no bison but have had a few turbo's tore apart

 

[turbot990]

Just a thought i had a split in out let hose one time yrs ago did the same but you been all over that as well did you pull the down pipe also

 

[Heisenberg]

If you can't reach in there with your finger and give it a spin and it spin 2 revolutions freely I'd say thats your problem if you have to wiggle it a little to free up to make it spin you got something wrong it you can push backwards on the wheel on the intake (air) side and the wheel becomes harder to turn or feels gritty that's not correct either I'm no bison but have had a few turbo's tore apart

Right - exactly.
And I have to work it - not a lot mind you - and not hard - but just enough.
It's not like I can put my finger in there and the wheel spins at finger touch.
Now - it does - after - I free it up.
But there in lies the rub.

 

[turbot990]

Do you have a turbo saver on your car.

 

[Heisenberg]

Just a thought i had a split in out let hose one time yrs ago did the same but you been all over that as well did you pull the down pipe also

It's ok.
I'm just frustrated.

Pull - as in completely?
No.
Took loose from the turbo and looked at the puck? - Four times.
Looks fine.
Couldn't see the sense in taking the DP off just to prove what I already knew.

 

[Heisenberg]

Do you have a turbo saver on your car.

No

 

[hiboom]

With the air rushing in there it must be enough force to bind it up the last thing that you want is to twist a shaft off or have a blade hit and send metal through your oiling system and trash your bearing in your crank

 

[turbot990]

No boost is like no lovey from the wifey

 

[Heisenberg]

With the air rushing in there it must be enough force to bind it up the last thing that you want is to twist a shaft off or have a blade hit and send metal through your oiling system and trash your bearing in your crank

what air rushing?
The boost tester air?
Perhaps.
But it was "stuck" like that before I ran my boost tests.

I set my air regulator to 25 psi.
Now I grant you - the inlet bell and turbine never see 25 psi of pressure.
But not seeing how it does any damage.
although - I've been wrong before.