No boost...The title says it all

[Heisenberg]

I hate to overstate the obvious but by 'no boost' is there any change it means 'no reading on the boost gauge'?

Does the car pull when you floor it? And what does the turbo whistle sound like during the pull?

And one little tidbit to further confuse things.

When I get on it - I see the first LED on the Boost Bar Graph "flicker"
Might mean something - might mean nothing.
But remember, that (SECOND) damned cheap a$$ Autozone 90 degree rubber fitting at my MAP sensor was split the other night too.
It has been fixed and I'll better know once I get things buttoned back up and fire it up.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

Thanks for taking the time to answer those 2 questions directly.
Appreciated.

So - if the MAP sensor tells the ECM nothing - and is only used for the LED bar graph display
Then...
If the ECM tells the modulating valve to modulate - what tells the ECM to make those decisions?
Or to put it another way - what info or data does the ECM use - to decide to start modulating and venting off pressure from the actuator line - (to atmosphere - right?)

Once the airflow reported by the MAF is high enough the ECM assumes that the engine is in boost. The ECM uses the RPM & TPS to create a waste gate duty cycle (DC%). This DC% is further changed if the transmission is in 3rd or 4th gear.

If knock is excessive the DC% is reduced, same if the ECM is in PE mode for too long. The higher the DC%, the higher the boost should be.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[NY_GN]

I had this issue with internal wastegates. The puck moves freely, but over time it wouldn't seat right in order to build boost. It would happen from time to time and then out of nowhere be good. I got a good one, but then changed to ext wastegate DP; night and day, freakin love it, no inconsistency at all.

 

[TurboDave]

Dave,

What about the answer to this question I had posited earlier?
Just for my own education.
Not that I think ithas any effect on my "no boost" situation.

So - if the MAP sensor tells the ECM nothing - and is only used for the LED bar graph display
Then...
If the ECM tells the modulating valve to modulate - what tells the ECM to make those decisions?
Or to put it another way - what info or data does the ECM use - to decide to start modulating and venting off pressure from the actuator line - (to atmosphere - right?)

The main solenoid table in the chip is primarilly rpm dependent. There are some scalers however, like what gear you're in, how much knock is being heard, how long the car is in PE(power enrichment), etc.

Of course, aftermarket chips, depending on their sophistication can do it differently.

 

[earlbrown]

And one little tidbit to further confuse things.

When I get on it - I see the first LED on the Boost Bar Graph "flicker"
Might mean something - might mean nothing.

Means nothing other than your factory boost gauge has flaked out like normal.

But remember, that (SECOND) damned cheap a$$ Autozone 90 degree rubber fitting at my MAP sensor was split the other night too.
It has been fixed and I'll better know once I get things buttoned back up and fire it up.

There's no way that thing could vent enough to cause a no boost condition.


Is the factory gauge your only boost gauge and is that what you're basing condition on?

How does the car pull when you floor it? Will it run clean and/or does it feel like a 10hp slug?[/quote]

 

[Heisenberg]

** UPDATE **

Turbo spins with shop air

Setting the air regulator to about 40 PSI
Inserting the blow gun nozzle on sort of a slight angel in the exhaust / turbine side of the Turbo
It spins - without any assist from my finger

 

[Heisenberg]

** FYI **

My downpipe & Puck

And I used a piece of clear plexi to view how the puck was seating.

I didn't take the time to remove the downpipe completely, since I'm not seeing anything wrong here.

 

[Heisenberg]

Means nothing other than your factory boost gauge has flaked out like normal.




There's no way that thing could vent enough to cause a no boost condition.


Is the factory gauge your only boost gauge and is that what you're basing condition on?

How does the car pull when you floor it? Will it run clean and/or does it feel like a 10hp slug?

[/quote]

** UPDATE **

Yes - ...sadly...the LED Bar Graph "WAS" my only boost gauge.
Please don't hate me!

Here is next plan
$20 at Horrible Freight in Lilburn

 

[Heisenberg]

Means nothing other than your factory boost gauge has flaked out like normal.




There's no way that thing could vent enough to cause a no boost condition.


Is the factory gauge your only boost gauge and is that what you're basing condition on?

How does the car pull when you floor it? Will it run clean and/or does it feel like a 10hp slug?

[/quote]

I agree about a tiny slit in that rubber elbow not being enough

Also - yes to the LED Bar Graph being flaky when it showed only one Bar flicker

Pic of the Autozone rubber MAP elbow so you'll know what I'm referring to.
This is #3.
Yeah - I know.
Keep doing what you've done - and you'll keep getting what you've got.
But for now - it is "one piece"

 

[Heisenberg]

Means nothing other than your factory boost gauge has flaked out like normal.




There's no way that thing could vent enough to cause a no boost condition.


Is the factory gauge your only boost gauge and is that what you're basing condition on?

How does the car pull when you floor it? Will it run clean and/or does it feel like a 10hp slug?

[/quote]

When I floor it - it feels like a decent, but sort of regular N.A. Buick Regal
Strong-"ish" - but certainly not a beast.
The strong part I think is simply due to my motor build.

No, I don't think there is any force feeding going on when I floor it.
Now bear in mind - I have a sick car here - and I'm not "flooring" it too - too much.
Just enough to see if I can generate some "wow" factor

 

[Heisenberg]

My actuator

 

[John Larkin]

The next thing you can do is tie the puck arm shut. However have a boost gauge hooked up before you do this. If that is the problem, it will overboost in a nanosecond. You'll have to modulate boost with the gas pedal.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

I agree about a tiny slit in that rubber elbow not being enough

Also - yes to the LED Bar Graph being flaky when it showed only one Bar flicker

Pic of the Autozone rubber MAP elbow so you'll know what I'm referring to.
This is #3.
Yeah - I know.
Keep doing what you've done - and you'll keep getting what you've got.
But for now - it is "one piece"

It won't be enough to cause a lack of boost. But it will be enough to cause the dash gauge to report incorrectly.

It may be that the boost is OK, just that you aren't keeping your foot into it long enough.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Heisenberg]

It won't be enough to cause a lack of boost. But it will be enough to cause the dash gauge to report incorrectly.

It may be that the boost is OK, just that you aren't keeping your foot into it long enough.

RemoveBeforeFlight

LOL - no.
I definitely am staying on it- but I'm not out there flogging the crap out of it like it owes me money.
I take it for a test spin on the highway where I can do "my thing"
Trust me - it ain't "boosty"
I know. Even though it's my favorite child, and more my "driver" car - It is usually very ill mannered - If you get my drift.
It's like someone snuck in my garage and replaced my car. But with one that has no boost.
Usually, once it gets cool down here - and isn't 95 degrees - it will almost want to go 30 degrees out of straight even on a roll - on the highway - that is - when I had boost!
But I appreciate the moral support.

 

[Heisenberg]

The next thing you can do is tie the puck arm shut. However have a boost gauge hooked up before you do this. If that is the problem, it will overboost in a nanosecond. You'll have to modulate boost with the gas pedal.

At idle or rolling?

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

OK, makes sense

It sounds just like when I disconnected the waste gate rod from the puck for tuning. Would only build 4 - 5 psi with the puck flapping freely. It had some get-up and go, but not like when the puck was being controlled.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[John Larkin]

Driving: turbos don't boost in park. You could power brake it though - it'll boost like that.

 

[Heisenberg]

OK, makes sense

It sounds just like when I disconnected the waste gate rod from the puck for tuning. Would only build 4 - 5 psi with the puck flapping freely. It had some get-up and go, but not like when the puck was being controlled.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Interesting thought....hmmmm
Since my actuator are was connected, the clip was A-OK, - that would imply my actuator is kinda not doing something.
But it has plenty of spring when I tug on it - and seems to be working just fine when I puff 20 PSI in the control line.

Full system Boost test from the inlet bell to the TB is next.
Just to eliminate a crater sized hole is an IC or a split in a hose coupler which I swear I have checked a dozen times.

Then rig up the boost gauge.
I don't care if I have to tape the damned thing to my windshield - but I won't!
Then start it and see if turbo spins.
And take if for a spin.

 

[Phoneguy]

** FYI **

My downpipe & Puck

And I used a piece of clear plexi to view how the puck was seating.

I didn't take the time to remove the downpipe completely, since I'm not seeing anything wrong here.

The easy way to check the puck alignment is to put some chalk, or anti seize, or petroleum jelly on the puck and rotate the arm to see where it is hitting. You will then see a clear picture of the puck seating.

Bryan

 

[Heisenberg]

Driving: turbos don't boost in park. You could power brake it though - it'll boost like that.

Right - I need a neighbor - or a friend.
My kid is useless.
God bless him though.