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No change when moving shifter into gear

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SuperNova66

New Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2008
Messages
7
Just installed 2004r. Full of fluid. Absolutely no response when put into any gear. Car is on jack stands and the rear wheels do not even move.

Ideas?
 
How much fluid is in it? They hold about 8 quarts or less with a small convertor. I expect you looked at the driveshaft to see if it moves, if not do so. What's the story on the trans, was it rebuilt, or used and in good working condition? Is it the original convertor-the one that belongs to the trans, I'm just wondering if the splines are the stripped. Other possibilities, I've seen the shifter linkage inside the transmission not connected, or no filter in the pan???? It gets more complicated as you go on from there, but it's a start.
Larry J
 
Is the Torque Converter installed correctly? Should have 1/8" to 3/16" between flexplate and converter before pulling converter forward to bolt up. If there's no gap the converter may not be seated properly into the Pump drive lugs and can ruin the pump.
 
Just installed 2004r. Full of fluid. Absolutely no response when put into any gear. Car is on jack stands and the rear wheels do not even move.

Ideas?

Broken pump gears maybe. Loosen one of the transmission lines with engine running see if its pumping fluid.
 
Engine off... check fluid level. Start engine.. check again. Lower? If yes, then the pump is working.
If no, it's back out on the bench time..
 
Maybe the s lever in teh trans isnt hooked up from the linkage to the VB. Try the above then drop the pan and take a look
 
Good point, he can completely disconnect a cooler line too, and see if it pumps fluid out when the engine starts. Put a hose on both ends and into a can to watch the flow, the above are all true, if no pumping it could be convertor out too far, or pump blew up on startup if no clearance, or no filter, etc.. Could be something as simple as disconnected linkage inside or - did it work before- nobody said yet.
 
One time I bolted up the converter to the engine, then sticking the tranny on. The result is that the converter doesn't get seated right and it will just spin and not drive the trans. That was an expensive mistake.
 
Thanks for all the great ideas.

I have no history on this trans. Was told it had been rebuilt, and by the looks of the VB, front, and rear seals, it is possible.

Installed correctly with TC firmly seated on input shaft prior to bolting to engine.

Redline used for fluid.

If it is the pump...is this an easy fix?
 
For the pump the trans has to be pulled, and it surrounds the input shaft in the front of the trans. I think its 6 bolts.

If you do pull it you will need a pump to case gasket since they tear half the time and new sealing washers for reassembly.

Its not that hard, but the pump has a special tool to pull it. If you dont have access to one you can drop the pan, pull the TCC solenoid, reomove the pump bolts and and carefully..carefully. walk the pump out with a flat screwdriver.
Pump has 7 vanes stock and 10-13 vanes for a replacement options, pump slider spring, and seals etc inside.

Best to try and get a photo guide...you can do a search I believe there is some on here.
 
Before you pull anything apart, check all the things mentioned and make sure you know where the problem is. I don't know how much of your own work you do but having an expert do the repairs or at least the more delicate parts of repairs and maybe the diagnostics could save you time and money if your not sure what to do. I have had a few customers who haven't rebuilt trannies bring stuff in that they tried to fix only to have to charge them more to repair things because things went together badly. (eg, having to replace a valve body because someone had it apart and mixed everything up, it's not always possible to find manmade problems. It could take hours just to find mixed up springs, whereas wear and tear and common mistakes are usually obvious to a pro).

Just a warning to you about pulling the pump yourself, in case your thinking about it. It would probably be cheaper to take the trans (and convertor) to a shop and have them look at the trans if it comes down to it. If you put the pump in and have something bind up on you it will wreck something internally. If your doing it you need to check clearances, seals, gaskets, clutch teeth are engaged, just to mention a few, get a good book on it.

Any chance you could have the original builder help diagnose it, they would probably be more than willing to help, afterall, it's their reputation on the line if it really was rebuilt right?


1971 Buick Stage 1 iron heads 11.02
(now going to Stage 2 with solid roller)
Thank you, Larry Johnson
Westshore Transmissions Ltd.
1081 Dunford Ave.
Victoria, BC V9B 2S4
(866)459-7070 or (250)478-7070
ATRA Certified Journeyman Transmission Tech
Victoria Transmission Repair
"Where Quality is Automatic and Good Service is Standard”
 
Everyone here was on the right track. I pulled the trans and found that the pump had gone. New pump and TC and should be good to go.
 
Pump "had gone"... As in it was broken when the trans was installed??
 
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