No fuel - engine won't start

[Crammysauce!]

I installed my new motor, and everything seems to have gone really well. The only problem is that I'm not getting any fuel at all, and can't get the engine started. I checked the line at the fuel rail inlet, and it's dry as a bone. I have already changed the fuel pump relay and the 15A fuel injection fuse is good. I thought it might be the harness ground, so I checked it and it's okay too. I have yet to check the voltage at the pump, but besides that, is there anything else anyone can think of to check? I'm usually pretty good at troubleshooting, but this issue might have me stumped. Everything was working fine when the old motor came out. Are there any sensors that would keep the fuel pump from running? I didn't unplug anything that (at least not that I think) would affect the fuel pump electrical source at all. I don't get the initial cycle when you turn the key to "ON". Yes, there is gas in the tank. Any ideas?? Thanks, guys!

 

[Turbo1dr]

The first place to start is to check for voltage at the connector near the tank.

Apply B+ to the gray wire near the alternator (fuel pump prime connector) to see if the pump comes on.

 

[bodycount]

ECM wire connected? May want to try putting 12v to the fuel pump test connector.

 

[Underboost]

When you turn the key on Acc do you here the fuel pump power up?

Make a jumper connect it to the loose grey wire behind the alternator and then to the positive terminal on the back of the alternator. Then try and start it. That will override. If that works check your fuses & wiring again. Opp's What Turbo1dr said LOL
I hope you didn't forget about the 4 wires on the back of the passenger side head when putting the motor in.

 

[Crammysauce!]

This gray wire - is it just there by itself, or is it a gray wire on a multiple wire connector? If the pump works with the jumper but not without it, what is the likely cause/source of the problem?

I will try this first thing in the morning. Thanks for all the help!!

 

[Crammysauce!]

I hope you didn't forget about the 4 wires on the back of the passenger side head when putting the motor in.

The four wires you're talking about are all just grounds to the head, right? The ones with the ring connectors? Thanks.

 

[Underboost]

The four wires you're talking about are all just grounds to the head, right? The ones with the ring connectors? Thanks.

Yes they're grounds. I've been told for the ecm. Just making sure they're on. As for the grey wire yes it's the single one. If the pump works with this connected than make sure that the relay you put in is good. I have ran into a weird fuel pump problem before that had to do with the harness in the trunk on the drivers side. It was the goldish/orange wire getting a bad connection in the harness. I tested by using a test light before the harness while I dangled the light out of the trunk so when I turned the key on I knew I was getting voltage to the pump. Remember the Voltage to the pump only lasts a couple of seconds once the key is on acc.. I hope this helps

 

[ChavoLC2]

Won't start

Seen it on a friends car where the coolant sensor either got broke or just failed. The ecm if it doesn't see coolant temp it won't allow car to start. It sounded stupid to us but he put a new sensor and it started immediately. Hopeing it's something that simple, costs about 10 bucks.

 

[Crammysauce!]

Sounds possible, but the sensor is new - could be a bad one from the factory. I tried the jumper just now, and get fuel pressure. So, since the pump is running, what else could it be? I will look at getting a new sensor today, and go from there. Any other suggestions are very welcome. Thanks!

 

[Turbo1dr]

Sounds possible, but the sensor is new - could be a bad one from the factory. I tried the jumper just now, and get fuel pressure. So, since the pump is running, what else could it be? I will look at getting a new sensor today, and go from there. Any other suggestions are very welcome. Thanks!

Find the fuel pump relay on the right fender and swap that relay out for another one that's there. If it still doesn't work it could be that the ECM isn't supplying the signal to trip the fuel pump relay. Check that.

Here's a wiring diagram:

 

[Crammysauce!]

It doesn't seem that the ECM is getting power. Is there a main power source wire that I have somehow lost? Where does is come from / go to?

Thanks for the schematic!!

 

[Turbo1dr]

The connector is located near the battery. Orange fusable link wire with a black quick disconnect. Wiring diagram shows it.

 

[Underboost]

Did you screw the coil pack harness in with your 1/4 nut driver? There is also an oil psi switch located under the turbo on the block if this is not plugged in, or just plain isn't working it cuts the fuel.

Is you injector harness plugged in?

 

[Turbo1dr]

There is also an oil psi switch located under the turbo on the block if the is not plugged in or isn't working it cuts the fuel.

I disagree.:smile:

The oil pressure switch acts as a "by-pass" if the fuel pressure relay goes bad. The car will still start but you will have to crank the car much longer until oil pressure closes the switch and sends power to the fuel pump. The wiring diagram shows how that operates.:smile:

 

[Underboost]

I disagree.:smile:

The oil pressure switch acts as a "by-pass" if the fuel pressure relay goes bad. The car will still start but you will have to crank the car much longer until oil pressure closes the switch and sends power to the fuel pump. The wiring diagram shows how that operates.:smile:

I just remember going down the track the head lifted pressurised the cooling system then blew the lower radiator hose at the water pump sending a flap of rubber from the hose down too that oily goo ball of rubber that use to be a plug made the wires in the plug touch then "bam" no fuel. The car cut out on the track. It took me sometime to figure that one out. That could be his problem also if that plug is bad. Sorry Turbo1dr my mistake.

 

[Crammysauce!]

Yeah, actually the minute after I posted last, we found the power wire. Guess I didn't think it was that important when I was taking everything apart -- stoopid . Anyway, got it hooked up and the engine runs finally. But, of course, within a minute and a half, my bigger cam snapped a rocker shaft. Thanks for addressing the problem, though! I really appreciate all of your help!! Take it easy!

 

[Underboost]

Yeah, actually the minute after I posted last, we found the power wire. Guess I didn't think it was that important when I was taking everything apart -- stoopid . Anyway, got it hooked up and the engine runs finally. But, of course, within a minute and a half, my bigger cam snapped a rocker shaft. Thanks for addressing the problem, though! I really appreciate all of your help!! Take it easy!

Oh man that sucks! I hope your up and running soon.

 

[Crammysauce!]

Well, it's nothing catastrophic really, so that's good. It did interrupt the cam break-in, but it's nothing that will stop the show. Thanks again for the help!!

 

[TurboDave]

I disagree.:smile:

The oil pressure switch acts as a "by-pass" if the fuel pressure relay goes bad. The car will still start but you will have to crank the car much longer until oil pressure closes the switch and sends power to the fuel pump. The wiring diagram shows how that operates.:smile:

In addition, the car will start (although a little slower) and run just fine even with the fuel pump relay removed/non functional, because of it being in parallel with the oil pump circuit, but the oil pump switch has to be operational.
One or the other. If both are bad/disconnected then the parallel circuit is broken.