no pcv

[turbo buicks]

i now Red runs w/o a pcv and i talked to a mechanic frind of mine and he said the only reason for a pcv valve is for emissions. i dont have to go through emissions anymore so im thinking about taking it off. one question, can i just leave the hole with the
o-ring in it in the intake open or does it need a breather?

thanks

 

[turbo buicks]

TTT

 

[TurboDave]

Your mechanic says the PCV is only for smog??

Time to find a different mechanic!!

Maybe be just fine on a race only car, but if yours is a daily driver, YOU WILL NEED a PCV. There's a lot of condensation and very caustic fumes that build up inside the crankcase, ESPECIALLY during short hauls. Let that stuff build up, and you'll have a real fine mess on your hands in just a few thousand miles.

 

[BoostKillsStres]

correct...

Dave is absolutly correct. I built an oil speerator for my pcv system and its collected about a 1/4 to 1/2 cup of milky sludge in 1000 mi. and if I take a short 10 mi. drive and stop , you can see the condensation all over the inside of the container, its even worse in the winter. You don't want to disable this system.

 

[turbo buicks]

boostkillsstres, how did you make this oil separator? is it easy to amke and how much did it cost?

 

[turbo buicks]

do you have any pics of your setup? if so shoot me an email of them

 

[Chris Taylor]

I used the fram G3 fuel filter to see how much oil was going past the PCV. It is allot. My car still smokes on start up due to the oil pulling through the G3 filter. One note, use a check valve so you don't blow out the Fram filter. I am going to make a oil seperator as well.

 

[turbo buicks]

i bought a pcv valve at discount auto parts that has a sort of check valve in it. do i need another one? wont this one just get clogged up too?

 

[larry33kc]

I would like to see some PICS too

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by turbo buicks
i bought a pcv valve at discount auto parts that has a sort of check valve in it. do i need another one? wont this one just get clogged up too?

What part number did you buy? Anything that doesn't have "893" somewhere in the part number is the wrong piece.

 

[tc86gn]

Do you guys think that a stock pcv w/a kirbans check valve is sufficient?

 

[TurboDave]

The stock PCV (the correct one) changed every 3-5 thousand miles would be sufficient. Check valve not needed.

Problem is, most don't even give the PCV and second thought, and many cars are running with PCV's that are not only months old, but most are probably YEARS old. NOT GOOD.

Keep it changed and it'll always do just fine. After all, it's only a couple bucks. Should actually be changed with every oil change. I'd bet there's not more than a few guys in the entire community remember to do it though.

 

[bruce]

A pint can, like for house hold paint, makes an excellent oil/vapor seperator.
some Stainless Steel Steel Wool, VERY COARSE
two right angle brass 3/8 hose fitting
and a check valve in conjucntion with the oem PVC would be the best setup.

You'd route it PVC valve to seperator, then seperator to check valve and then to throttle body.
Mounting the can with lid down makes servicing it easy.
LOOSELY stuff a few pads in the can. In some case one pad maybe enough, you just want to slow the oil vapor down enough to settle out the air, and the PCV is only open in high vac situations.

Install the IN fitting at about mid height on the can and the out at the top of the can, as will be installed. that way you can hold 1/2 pint of trapped fliud.

The only trouble with the pem PCVs is that they are only a couple bucks, and some don't seal well. A check valve insures that the crankcase ain't gonna see boost. $8 vs doing a rear main is cheap insurance in my book. BTDT.

 

[tom h]

just a thought...

miniature oil/water separators are readily available commercially, intended for 100psi compressed air systems used in "instrument" and "fluidic" applications. Why re-invent the wheel?

Norgren Corp is one mfr, but there are many.

The smallest ones are just a few inches tall, maybe 1" or so diameter. They typically have either a drain cock at the bottom, some will automatically empty when fluid level rises.

Check the temperature rating of the mini-separator, as underhood temperatures could hit 200F in worst case conditions (maybe more).

 

[turbosam6]

Hey guys, I was on www.nloc.com, looking for stuff for my Lightning, and they have got a good fix for the oil consumption thing. They pipe in a air/water separator for an air compressor, it holds the oil. I think that looks like a better set up, but the filter in it doesn't handle oil, so you need to keep it out of the oil. In other words, keep it drained. I might try it on my 87, if I do, I'll let you know.