NO Spark, No Fuel Pressure??? HELP PLEASE

[85TurboTtype]

Alright gentlemen, I have a serious problem. First off, I'm not getting any spark. I have read that everyone resorts right to the crank position sensor, but I'll tell you what my situation is anyway. I just purchased a new body for my car because last year I decided to smack into a telephone pole. I pulled my engine out with tranny. When pulling it out I found out the whole tranny case was cracked (ouch). That really sucked, but is besides the point. Anyway, I have the engine back in the car now and have absolutly no spark. First question, When checking for spark the plug must touch ground somewhere right? Next, would my crank position sensor go bad because of a collision? Which wire should I check at the coilpack to see if there is juice/power there? If there is power at that point that I check at the coilpack, does that mean the coilpack is shot?

Second issue

When does fuel pressure show up? Does the fuel pressure show up right when you turn the key forward? If I'm low on gas will there still be a pressure reading? If I know I'm full on gas, what could cause no pressure? I do have a hotwire kit and I've checked for power at the back connection point and I have juice there. (Allthough it only seems to be like 10 volts) When I purchased the car, I was told that there is a Walboro 340 pump in the tank. If the car sat long enough would/could the pump have frozen up?

Also what is the story with fusible links? I've heard that they are good as long as they are firm, not sloppy or squishy?

Last note- The car does turn over, so there is power at the starter. When I turn the key forward I have power at the stereo, but have no interior lights..... Not sure on this one...The horn works and so do the headlights/highbeams/turnsignals.

Any help with these matters would go much appreciated...Thank you guys in advance!!!

 

[TurboDave]

First thing would be to check all your fuses carefully. Especially any that are labeled FP or INJ or ECM or a combination of those labels.
Then make sure the orange wire coming off the battery is indeed supplying power to the ECM. No power on that wire would not allow the fuel pump to prime (the first thing you should hear when turning the key to on), and thence allow spark.

I cant remember if a faulty crank trigger signal will kill fuel (I don't think so) but is will definately kill spark, so it's probably not the problem, since you have neither fuel nor spark.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Sounds like the computer is not getting power. The orange wire on the + batt cable near the connection to the battery - if that is not powered, the computer will not prime the fuel system and no spark - that is the easy lucky fix for the situation described.

 

[ijames]

At key on (if the key has been off for at least 5 seconds) the ecm runs the fuel pump for two seconds then turns it off if it is not receiving crank sensor pulses. From then on, so long as it is getting cps pulses it keeps the fuel pump on. The oil pressure switch has contacts in parallel with the fuel pump relay so if you crank long enough to turn out the oil light the fuel pump will also get power that way. You should be able to just hear the fuel pump from the drivers seat, and should hear it clearly with your head under the rear bumper next to the tank (it's just hard to reach the key from that position ).

The ignition module must be getting crank and cam sensor pulses to put out spark. Watch your tach while cranking - if it moves up then the crank sensor is okay and sending pulses to the module which then sends them on to the ecm and sends the signal to the tach. To check for spark you can pull a plug, put the wire back on, and then lay the plug on the throttle body so the metal part of the plug is grounded. It may spark even if you leave it in midair or just have it close to some other metal but you are really stressing the high voltage insulation in the coilpack if you make the spark jump more than about 3/8".

Anything is possible in a collision, but I would be much more worried about the torque converter than the crank sensor - I hope you replaced it or had it cut open and checked.

 

[85TurboTtype]

THANK YOU GUYS

I just went out checked the orange wire and everything from the battery to the ecm.....Good power. Then I went to the fuse box...lol....It's a good thing that guy took out that ecm/ignition fuse, otherwise I would have never got it started!!!!!! Who takes out a fuse?? I surely don't know.... I guess I should have thought of that scince almost every plug was cut off the engine wire harness!!! Luckily I had my old one to cut up and connect all the plugs.. Otherwise I would have been looking for a new wire harness!!! Anyway, aside from all my b**ching, I got it started!! Awesome!!!Thanks alot guys... All I need now is a NEW MAF Sensor. That got crushed in the accident...Will any 3.8 V6 MAF work that is like ours?

 

[85TurboTtype]

MAF Sensor

Anyone have any ideas on the MAF sensor versatillity? Do I have to have a specific one for TurboRegals, or can I use one from any other V6 231?

 

[turbo2nr]

84-85 regal or riviera t-type or GN, They look a little different, so I guess they are different.??

 

[85TurboTtype]

87 3.8 olds MAF

What if it is off of a 3.8 olds delta? Would that work with my application? It is thinner in the middle of the actual housing.... Will that effect airflow? I can see that its gonna restrict somewhat, but will it work for now?

 

[turbo2nr]

what the heck, give it a try, but i think it will not work.

 

[85TurboTtype]

MAF Resistance?

Does anyone know what the resistance is in the MAF? Meaning that if I use a multimeter what readings will I get out of the MAF? Thanks again.....

 

[TurboDave]

MAF's are very specific to their application. NO any 231 MAF will not work. Although that seems to be the mentallity in most of the auto parts store industry. Probably the reason that only about 1 in 10 will even be close to working.
Turbo regals have specificly calibrated MAFs for the turbo applicatons. so specific for example, that 84/85 are NOT the same as 86/87 MAFs.
This is not the place to be rolling the dice on the crap table. GET the proper parts the first time. (NOT remanufactured parts house MAFs).