No Spark/No SES

[Haynesie]

Well, I eventually got the car started...and then the fuel pump relay went out...so it stopped (relay is original). I replaced it and tried to start the car, but had no luck. The only thing I can think may have happened is the Cam Sensor slightly moved as it might not have been tightend down enough. I aligned it, and was able to get the car started again. I then began putting everything back together, and now the car doesn't start.

Is it possible the Cam sensor went bad, It is basically brand new so I'm thinking maybe I got a defective one. Any thoughts?

 

[ScottHeidinger]

Most likely the cam sensor moved. It's very tight in there and hard to see what's going on. Add to that the gears kind of need to turn on the sensor and the cam before it will seat all the way down and it's easy to have this issue. I have thought mine was tightened down all the way and the next day it was loose. I didn't understand until the other day I changed my water pump and timing cover gaskets. When I put the cam sensor back in after priming the oil pump it would not drop in so I slowly turned the crankshaft by hand and i was able to tighten it all the way down after one full revolution. Check your cam sensor and make sure it's tight.


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[Haynesie]

Alright so I was able to get I started and running. Unfortunately after a minute or so the ses light comes on and it throws the cam sensor code. I then have to sightless adjust it and the car starts, and eventually so does the SES. I don't know if I can tighten the bolt and more than I already am to secure the cam sensor shaft, any one have any recommendations or have run into this as well?

 

[bison]

Alright so I was able to get I started and running. Unfortunately after a minute or so the ses light comes on and it throws the cam sensor code. I then have to sightless adjust it and the car starts, and eventually so does the SES. I don't know if I can tighten the bolt and more than I already am to secure the cam sensor shaft, any one have any recommendations or have run into this as well?

Remove the cam sensor and cap. Check to see if the reluctor is properly located and the retention hasnt sheared off. Once this looked into id add in a cam sensor reluctor retention. You can message me for this if needed. Its also possible its an intermittent open circuit on the cam sensor while cranking. The engine doesnt need the cam sensor to run but it needs it to start. Once sync is achieved the engine will start. If the reluctor randomly changes position far enough from the sync it will throw the timing off and likely stall. An open circuit at the cam sensor once running wont matter though it will run in batch fire. If you can get it started and unplug the cam sensor and it will stay running its almost always a loose reluctor. If it cranks but doesnt start the flow chart will have the solution al,most every time. It cant determine if your problem is an intermittent though. Posting the code will help with diagnsis

 

[Haynesie]

Car seems to be starting just fine now, have a backup cam sensor in case this one fails...gotta love old cars and their gremlins...

 

[bison]

Car seems to be starting just fine now, have a backup cam sensor in case this one fails...gotta love old cars and their gremlins...

The assembly line cam sensors rarely failed. Most had the bushings/shaft wear from excessive loading. The reluctor problem was not typical on the assembly line units. Only replacement units

 

[Haynesie]

Makes sense,

I had the actual shaft rebuilt by GNS a year ago, I was referencing the actual cap, and it is an aftermarket one. I purchased a replacement from Kirban (the one with the LED) that I can use if this one continues to give me trouble.