No TCC voltage

[VadersV6]

Also, what does a pressure switch in the tranny do? Like the 4th gear pressure switch Ive heard of?

 

[salvageV6]

You can use a 3 wire switch but it's much easier with a nice 2 wire switch for testing without any LED or lamps in it.

I'd start with what I posted to eliminate any more confusion.

If the LED goes out I believe it should be locked up since your switch SHOULD provide ground, right now it's getting +12 through the solenoid coil which is the tan/blk wire, when grounded the lamp goes out which should command lockup, but like most things it probably isn't working that way.

I'd try a 2 wire switch since LED's aren't the topic here but properly grounding the wire at the right time is.

Those switches are made to switch +12 not ground don't use it for now.

Any 2 terminal switch should work ON/OFF type.

Use a paper clip across the 2 terminals if you have to.

Pressure switches tell the ECM what gear you are in, they are outputs with wiring direct to the ECM.

Rarely fail.

 

[salvageV6]

I just re-read your post and most likely that switch won't work the way you have it wired.

Get a 2 wire switch for now, ON/OFF.

The ground on those stupid +12 switching LED or LAMP switches is for grounding the lamp only, it's not part of the switch assembly (usually), the +12 gets switched only on those things.

You can make them work but not today or tomorrow test it with a 2 wire device or a paper clip or wire from pin to pin.

 

[VadersV6]

The power is going straight from the source to ground, so i dont see why it wouldnt work. The LED wouldnt come on if the current wasnt flowing through. But I will try the paper clip thing one more time.

 

[salvageV6]

Read the label on the switch package.

It should tell you made to switch +12 for accessories.

We are trying to switch GROUND.

It matters with a 3 wire switch, especially when you only need to use 2 correct terminals, more chance for error.

You wouldn't put the ALDL ground on the ground terminal as labeled with that type of switch to make it work right the ground is for the lamp only.

I wired one at a dyno. in RI for someone that couldn't get his to work right, and I needed a meter to figure out the terminals since it wasn't labeled in English.

Trust me and use a 2 wire switch for now.

 

[VadersV6]

Well the way I know, is I get 12v on the hot side of the switch (coming from the tan/blk stripe wire), and nothing at the ground wire on the ALDL, when the switch is off. When i turn it on, not only is the light on, but I now have 12V at the ground wire on the ALDL. Now if my wife can just get off my case and let me get under the car to check the converter, I could get somewhere.

 

[VadersV6]

My God, this would have been helpful had I known it existed. I ended up stumbling on this by accident, after finding so little while purposefully searching.

Now I want to know what this converter clutch control is, by the bottom left. I can see that its what grounds the circuit, but where is it and what does it look like?
Never mind. Duh.....its the ECM

 

[salvageV6]

You do remember Feb. 28th don't you?

"It's a relatively simple system.

ECM/SOL fuse provides +12 key on, through the brake switch on the colored wires listed above.

+12 goes out the C100 main harness connector under the wiper motor on the PURPLE wire down to the tranny plug PIN A as noted by Chris.

Check for +12 on the purple wire connector pin A.

TAN/BLK wire will be grounded either from the ECM or ALDL port to ground via your switch.

Ground locks up the converter by the ECM normally this is on PIN D at the tranny connector."

Then there were all the tests you could have done too.

Good luck.

 

[VadersV6]

Looks like the way I had it wired, was that I had a constant 12V going to the solenoid, whether the switch was on or off. The LED worked, but it wasnt indicative of what was really going on, just like you said.
I wired up a normal switch, and there is no lockup. I verified that the switch works, and voltage is being grounded from the tan/blk wire.
I just need to get my converter cover off to see what concverter I have. If its a lockup, thatll spare me the headache of swapping another one out.

 

[VadersV6]

Well, I have a non lock converter. Its pretty small, probably 9-10 inches, and is donut shaped on both sides....no flat side like the D5 to hold the clutches. I cant see any brand markings. Its painted black, and has a billet machined ring welded on that mounts to the flywheel. I wonder if its bad having that purple power wire in the connector. (old owner had it out)
I put up another post asking to explain the mods that are done to the tranny to accept a non lock converter, but maybe no one really knows or doesnt care to answer. I'm getting my hands on a D5 converter, and Im going to have to explain to a tranny guy what is done to the tranny when people put non locks in them, so he'll know how to switch it back.

 

[crownvic96]

well if that converter is that small, you'll have a chubby when you see the gas mileage you'll get if you get the stock d5 back in that bad mofo

 

[GNSCOTT]

Here ya go for starters.

Search feature here and on google works great.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/cvt_to_nonlockup.html

Hopefully your turbo doesn't need the 9" converter and it's stall speed to spool up nicely once you get the D5 2400 lockup back in there.

 

[VadersV6]

Yeah, I checked that page out last week, but I dont know what those components are are where they go. Unfortunately, Im an engine guy and know little about trannies. All i know how to do, is drop them.