Non-Buick but need help

[John Larkin]

Finally received the bushings for the '27 Dodge Mustang II IFS. It came with uppers and lowers.

The uppers did not come with inner crush sleeves (one-piece bushings). The lowers came with inner sleeves. The original upper inner sleeves have the same inside diameter as the new bushing. I cannot get the sleeve in the new bushing without drilling it out (o.o12" too small). The bushing does fit snugly onto the upper cross shaft and fits in the control arm shell tightly.

My question is: since the uppers did not come with new crush sleeves and the lowers did, can I take it that sleeves are not needed on the uppers? Sadly they did not come with instructions and the place closed at noon today so I could not call and ask the techs.

It's just strange to me to install a bushing with no inner sleeve but maybe that's just how it is. Help apperciated.

 

[charlief1]

Pics would help John. What brand are they?

 

[John Larkin]

Fatman Fabrications.

 

[John Larkin]

There are the bushings. Those two sleeves were left over from the previous bushings (rubber). These are poly bushings I am guessing - they are extremely stiff and barely flexible. They will fit in the cups in the control arm and are tight on the cross shaft. I can drive them onto the shaft with a socket but have not yet. Since they did not come with new inner sleeves, likely sleeves are not required. Just wanted to bounce that off someone that might know. And yeah it needs a new ball joint boot too. That's next on the magical mystery tour of this thing.

 

[charlief1]

Check the id of the hole in the arm against the od of the bushing with a pair of calipers. Then check the id of the bushing against the od of the sleeve. The bushing part should fit snug and the sleeves drive into them. That expands them some for a better fit John.

 

[John Larkin]

The ID of the bushing is 0.125" smaller than the OD of the sleeve (the bushing hole is basically 5/8" and the sleeve OD is 3/4"). But the ID of the sleeve equals the ID of the bushing. So it's the shell thickness (1/16") that is stopping me from using the sleeves. The A-Arm I am not worried about; it is going to fit fine. It's the sleeve. And the more I think about it, if they designed the replacement bushing to fit like it does without the sleeve, then the sleeve is not needed. I guess I could take them somewhere and have them drilled - I don't have a 3/4" twist bit nor a press.

What is the sleeve really for? I think it limits crushing the bushing end to end. And it gives a metal-to-metal wear surface for the center bolt/shaft.

 

[charlief1]

Think of the sleeve as a lock John. It keeps you from running the nut down to much and crushing the bushing. It also prevents the shaft from getting worn since the bushing should be moving on the sleeve. It's a little unsual for the inner sleeve to be bigger than the hole in the bushing so maybe they sent you the wrong parts.

 

[T-CHRGD]

It looks like the bushings might be made of Delrin. Do they seem almost like a hard plastic?
If so, then do Not use the old sleeves. Sleeves are used for rubber bushings to lock them in, the rubber is vulanized to the sleeve and shell, and the rubber twists when the suspension moves. If Delrin (or poly), the bushing pivots on the shaft.
If Delrin, grease the shaft and the bushing, and do NOT over tighten. The shaft nuts should be tightened only enough to eliminate end play. The Delrin bushing should Not be tightened like a rubber bushing

 

[Henry Albert]

I assume you are going to remove the shaft and clean up the ends. Is it just the picture or are the sleeve shells installed from the inside of the A arms which would make it harder to remove the sleeves(please correct me)?

 

[John Larkin]

We went ahead and drilled them. The sleeves fit tight in them now. They are a hard plastic. I could have gone either way but I really wish they had included instructions. Heck, when I called the first time, the sales guys said that these were not even their arms. I had to call back and get a guy in their mechanic shop to find out what to order. In the end it will be the same difference anyhow, maybe a little more longevity as a result. I agree with not overtightening. I could crush that flange pretty easy.

The shaft is not removable. It has a stepped area with a washer that was installed before the ends were welded onto the tubes. Not like OEM stuff. That is why it has been so confusing along with the lack of consistent tech support.