You can type here any text you want

Oil additive

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

NickyDe

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2024
Messages
1
Hi Guys & Gals
I finally got my 86 GN back on the road after 20yrs in garage. I'm using full syn. oil, do I also need a additive? What do you use.
Thanks
 
If you’re not running a flat tappet cam, then you’ll be fine without it.
However, if you are running a FT cam with high spring pressures then you should be running an oil with no more than 1,000-1,500ppm of Zinc/ZDDP as too much can be detrimental to your engine & promotes too much wear.
Although not ideal (and shunned by the experts) you could add a small amount of Zinc/ZDDP additive to your oil.
ZDDP-Plus , Lucas & Rislone all offer this additive.
 
VR1 is still a great oil at a great price in a 5qt jug, VR1 says they have roughly 1400 ppm zinc and 1300 ppm Phosphorus levels, my own Blackstone oil analysis did NOT back that up, way lower at 940ppm and 740ppm.

If you're on the stock cam like 1kwiksix asked you'll want to keep your ppm up like the 80s era oil levels were.
 
Hi Guys & Gals
I finally got my 86 GN back on the road after 20yrs in garage. I'm using full syn. oil, do I also need a additive? What do you use.
Thanks
Flat tappet cams need zinc in the oil to survive. I used to use one bottle of ZZZD plus every oil change before I did a roller engine. Now it's Royal Purple most of the time, it has Mobil One in it right now.

I'm sure others will chime in, as oil and additives are always a lively discussion here. :)
 
The high mileage formulations have similar ZDDP concentrations to the oils the engine was designed to run with. If you use those, you don't need the additives.
 
Amsoil z-rod or royal purple hps.. just 2 suggestions but I'd definitely use an engineered additive package rather than a random amount of whatever
 
Amsoil z-rod or royal purple hps.. just 2 suggestions but I'd definitely use an engineered additive package rather than a random amount of whatever
that's what my foster dad said he was a chemical engineer for a large oil company in the early 80s even though he did not work for Pennzoil he said it was his oil of choice for his DD because of the chemical package. when he was alive he did not recommend VR1 in my 428 Pontiac that I was beating on as a DD
 
that's what my foster dad said he was a chemical engineer for a large oil company in the early 80s even though he did not work for Pennzoil he said it was his oil of choice for his DD because of the chemical package. when he was alive he did not recommend VR1 in my 428 Pontiac that I was beating on as a DD
Probably didn’t recommend VR-1 for your daily as it has no detergents & gets dirty fast. Keep in mind it’s a racing oil that designed to be changed between races so it would never be subject to the Lo get term use of a DD
 
Yes, VR1 is maybe 1000 miles tops, I swap in that interval because damn it gets dark.
Also as an ethanol car I don't want that building up in there.
 
Yes, VR1 is maybe 1000 miles tops, I swap in that interval because damn it gets dark.
Also as an ethanol car I don't want that building up in there.
I just did a fully built 109 9:3 compression RJC girdle hydralic roller TA roller rockers and I also will be running E85 year round (live in South Florida)

My engine builder told me to run Royal Purple HPS 10W-40. Given that its Ethanol I'm going to be changing the oil every 1000 miles.
 
I just did a fully built 109 9:3 compression RJC girdle hydralic roller TA roller rockers and I also will be running E85 year round (live in South Florida)

My engine builder told me to run Royal Purple HPS 10W-40. Given that its Ethanol I'm going to be changing the oil every 1000 miles.
Instead of blindly wasting money on 1000 mile oil changes, send samples to a lab and see if you really need to go that short. If the car is tuned right, you're not gonna get a lot of fuel in the oil, even on E85. I never have fuel or water the oil and I get every change tested.
 
Instead of blindly wasting money on 1000 mile oil changes, send samples to a lab and see if you really need to go that short. If the car is tuned right, you're not gonna get a lot of fuel in the oil, even on E85. I never have fuel or water the oil and I get every change tested.

You're 100% right, I should do that.
 
Back
Top