Oil additive
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1KWIKSIX
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If you’re not running a flat tappet cam, then you’ll be fine without it.
However, if you are running a FT cam with high spring pressures then you should be running an oil with no more than 1,000-1,500ppm of Zinc/ZDDP as too much can be detrimental to your engine & promotes too much wear.
Although not ideal (and shunned by the experts) you could add a small amount of Zinc/ZDDP additive to your oil.
ZDDP-Plus , Lucas & Rislone all offer this additive.
However, if you are running a FT cam with high spring pressures then you should be running an oil with no more than 1,000-1,500ppm of Zinc/ZDDP as too much can be detrimental to your engine & promotes too much wear.
Although not ideal (and shunned by the experts) you could add a small amount of Zinc/ZDDP additive to your oil.
ZDDP-Plus , Lucas & Rislone all offer this additive.
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VR1 is still a great oil at a great price in a 5qt jug, VR1 says they have roughly 1400 ppm zinc and 1300 ppm Phosphorus levels, my own Blackstone oil analysis did NOT back that up, way lower at 940ppm and 740ppm.
If you're on the stock cam like 1kwiksix asked you'll want to keep your ppm up like the 80s era oil levels were.
If you're on the stock cam like 1kwiksix asked you'll want to keep your ppm up like the 80s era oil levels were.
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Flat tappet cams need zinc in the oil to survive. I used to use one bottle of ZZZD plus every oil change before I did a roller engine. Now it's Royal Purple most of the time, it has Mobil One in it right now.
I'm sure others will chime in, as oil and additives are always a lively discussion here.
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The high mileage formulations have similar ZDDP concentrations to the oils the engine was designed to run with. If you use those, you don't need the additives.
deezdad
Jackie's cashing in on your wretched disfigurement
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Amsoil z-rod or royal purple hps.. just 2 suggestions but I'd definitely use an engineered additive package rather than a random amount of whatever
that's what my foster dad said he was a chemical engineer for a large oil company in the early 80s even though he did not work for Pennzoil he said it was his oil of choice for his DD because of the chemical package. when he was alive he did not recommend VR1 in my 428 Pontiac that I was beating on as a DD
1KWIKSIX
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Probably didn’t recommend VR-1 for your daily as it has no detergents & gets dirty fast. Keep in mind it’s a racing oil that designed to be changed between races so it would never be subject to the Lo get term use of a DD
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Yes, VR1 is maybe 1000 miles tops, I swap in that interval because damn it gets dark.
Also as an ethanol car I don't want that building up in there.
Also as an ethanol car I don't want that building up in there.
3.8 LA LEY
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I just did a fully built 109 9:3 compression RJC girdle hydralic roller TA roller rockers and I also will be running E85 year round (live in South Florida)
My engine builder told me to run Royal Purple HPS 10W-40. Given that its Ethanol I'm going to be changing the oil every 1000 miles.
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Instead of blindly wasting money on 1000 mile oil changes, send samples to a lab and see if you really need to go that short. If the car is tuned right, you're not gonna get a lot of fuel in the oil, even on E85. I never have fuel or water the oil and I get every change tested.
3.8 LA LEY
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You're 100% right, I should do that.
Never add any oil additive to your oil. It's simple chemistry meaning that you will turn the oil into something that it wasn't before and you have no way of knowing what it turns into. I know of four instances where someone added zddp to four different oils and it destroyed each of the oils film strengths. The oil currently with the highest film strength of all oils is Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 and if you purchase it at Walmart, you will pay less that $22.00 dollars for a five quart jug. The oils with the highest film strengths are almost all 5W-30 weights or some other thin oils. Quaker State Full Synthetic is currently the king of film strength and has very little zinc in it. If I had a flat tappet cam, I would use this stuff. But then again, I use it in all of my cars including my 700 hp Regal and my lawn mower and lawn tractor And my friend uses it in his 1973 Ford tractor at my advice. Highest film strength and lowest cost. No brainer. FYI, Z Rod tests very poorly for film strength. I wouldn't put it in my lawn mower.
All oils with high zinc levels don't offer good protection. Some do and some don't. All synthetic oils don't offer good protection. Some do and some don't. All thick/high viscosity oils don't offer good protection. Almost none do and the great majority of them don't and they flow poorly and hold air bubbles longer than thin oils do and because they flow poorly they tend to run hotter than thin oils. All Nascar engines use thin oils.
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