Oil for engine break in

JSD69Vette

New Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2006
I'm about to fire up my egine for the first time after a complete rebuild and I see a lot of guys talking about using a desiel oil during cam breakin. Should I use a full 5 quarts? Is their a specific viscousity to use? Where can I get the oil, Napa or the like?

Also, I put a 6amp electric drill on the oil pump to prime it. Got about 20psi on the gauge but no oil thru the push rods. Is that an issue? Should I put a higher power drill on it an try again?
 
well im a chevy dude new here but i have owned buhogs in the past and on my 455 i packed pump with vasoline for prime and years later ive read on here somewhere thats what they do to these as well.

as far as break in ive read alot about the desal lately but havent tried it on any motors.

lot of smart fellers on this board though and very helpful
 
I used 10W 30 Castrol GTX w/ EOS and still do. I would use Rotella 15-40 if I had to do it again. I primed the pump right before putting the cam sensor in and started it right up. Have right at 20psi hot idle(after passes down the 1/4 and 40-45 on cold startup. Im happy so far. This is without any oil cooler and just a PF47 filter and on a new 40 psi spring.
 
I'm about to fire up my egine for the first time after a complete rebuild and I see a lot of guys talking about using a desiel oil during cam breakin. Should I use a full 5 quarts? Is their a specific viscousity to use? Where can I get the oil, Napa or the like?

Also, I put a 6amp electric drill on the oil pump to prime it. Got about 20psi on the gauge but no oil thru the push rods. Is that an issue? Should I put a higher power drill on it an try again?

Straight 30W oil with EOS. Use 5-6 quarts.
20 PSI should be more than enough to get the oil to the pushrods.
Don't turn the key untill you are sure you get oil on top! Keep priming. :D
 
I just put Rotella in there and keep priming till I got oil out of the push rods! I see guy's on the site talk about standard oil with EOS, what is EOS?

Thanks.
 
I just put Rotella in there and keep priming till I got oil out of the push rods! I see guy's on the site talk about standard oil with EOS, what is EOS?

Thanks.

EOS is that obsolete "Engine Oil Suppliment" from GM. :cool:
Bottom line is this; If you do not use a good oil with sufficient pressure lubricants, and/or, do not see oil comming out of the pushrods, you may end up pulling the motor again for a complete rebuild!

Some may disagree, but you have to ask yourself one question: Do you feel lukcy? :cool:
 
Bottom line is this; If you do not use a good oil with sufficient pressure lubricants, and/or, do not see oil comming out of the pushrods, you may end up pulling the motor again for a complete rebuild!

Some may disagree, but you have to ask yourself one question: Do you feel lukcy? :cool:

I agree. Get the oil from and push rods b4 starting.


Via gnttype.org

Oil Pump Priming Procedure
Harold Sparks - sparks_h@nosapp.nr.state.ky.us

Procedure
This procedure can be used instead of packing the oil pump with white grease or Vasoline.
The engine should be reassembled except for the cam sensor and the top oil cooler line connection at the radiator. (See note 1)
1. Put three quarts of oil in the engine.
2. Take the lid (or see note 2) from a quart of oil and cut an X in it so that the end of the oil cooler line can just be inserted. This may take a
3. little practice to get it to fit tightly. (You have 5 or 6 to work with, right?)
4. Attach the quart of oil to the lid.
5. Wrap a rag or something around the crude connection to catch the drips, and invert the quart of oil.
6. Rotate the oil pump backwards (counterclockwise) to pump the oil out of the container. Do this until the container is almost empty.
7. Remove the container.
8. Reattach the oil cooler line.
9. Top off the engine with oil.
10. The pump is now primed, but you want to pump oil (prime) throughout the engine before you start it.
11. Prime the engine with oil by turning the oil pump (clockwise) with a drill until you get oil to the rocker arms.
12. Reinstall and set the cam sensor, and you are done
Note 1:
The intercooler and fan can be left off to make setting the cam sensor easier.
Note 2:
A properly sized funnel instead of the hole in the oil container lid should also work, but might be tricky to do by yourself.
Note 3:
The use of Vaseline is totally NOT NECESSARY with this method. And its use is NOT recommended (although it will still work)
 
you can get an SF rated oil from your local Wal Mart under the "Accel" brand for under $2 a quart that would work great for break in. i used it for cam break in when i swapped cams in the 350 in my Monte this spring, and switched to 15w-40 Rotella T and some STP oil treatment after break in.
i know- not a Buick, but engines are engines.
 
I use only diesel oil.DELO or Rotella.Stuff's full of zinc and other anti-scuff additives.

FWIW,our grandpappies were on to something with their STP...that stuff has a ridiculous amount of zinc and all the other good stuff that's not in most oils any more...
 
While on the oil subject, what oil should I use for routine maitenance I am in the Houston area. I have done one oil change with Royal Purple. Thanks.
 
I use only diesel oil.DELO or Rotella.Stuff's full of zinc and other anti-scuff additives.
the standard Delo and Rotella that you can get most anywhere do NOT have the proper additives for flat tappet cams any more. they are the newer SM rated oils.
however, i think if you go to diesel repair shops, they might still have the good stuff, since there are still a lot of big rigs that need it.
and EOS is still sold at dealers, but under the AC Delco label with a different part number.
 
what does the bottle look like for the rotella that still good to use?
 
......EOS is still sold at dealers, but under the AC Delco label with a different part number.

I don't think it is still called EOS (???)
As far as I know, the EOS (as I know it), is no longer sold.
Sure, some stores may still have it, but they probably do not realize it is absolete, untill they look it up in the system ........ Based on my experience at two of the Buick dealers I contacted in Houston. :frown:

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...oil-zddp-supplement.html?highlight=supplement
 
the standard Delo and Rotella that you can get most anywhere do NOT have the proper additives for flat tappet cams any more. they are the newer SM rated oils.
.

Diesel spec CJ4 DELO has reduced levels of zinc and phosphorus,but still has enough,and way more than "car" oil.

It also has good levels of moly and boron.


If you're worried about it put in a bottle of STP.
 
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