oil pressure readings need advice

Make certain the "reconditioned crank" that they put in there is a turbo(or 4.1) crank(hopefully it wasn't cracked/welded). If it doesn't have the rolled fillets: it won't last if you run it fast! Check ALL the clearances(plus crank endplay/connecting rod endplay/etc.). OH- while you're getting it honed: check the ring gaps too.
 
both cranks i have are 229 casting

how can i verfiy rolled fillets

run fast ha, its a hot air ha thats funny

im looking for parts now

anyone use ta cam bearing?
 
Got to find a shop that will make sure the cam passages are true. It spun all 4 cam bearings, why??? They had to have messed up the cam bearing bore, who knows if the bearing will stay put now.

A rolled fillet crank will have "grooves" on the edges of main and rod bearing surfaces. If they are only on the mains, then you have NA crank. Some cranks used the same casting number but the fillets varied.

Go to a junk yard and get yourself a 3.8 and go from there. You are going to spend in the area of $3500 for a properly built engine.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
i know that block is scrap

thats what happen to my 1st engine that was in my gn for 230k

there the same casting 4140



i have a 109 that will go to the right machine shop
 
rodman99999 said:
Make certain the "reconditioned crank" that they put in there is a turbo(or 4.1) crank(hopefully it wasn't cracked/welded). If it doesn't have the rolled fillets: it won't last if you run it fast! Check ALL the clearances(plus crank endplay/connecting rod endplay/etc.). OH- while you're getting it honed: check the ring gaps too.
I have heard of several guys going 10's@125+ with the non rolled fillet crank. Mains will fail before the crank if they are stock.
 
skostur79 said:
who guessed all 4 cam bearings spun

ding ding we have a winner!!!!

what took 2 weeks to build , takes 30 mins to selfdestuct

and 2 hours to pull back out and find the problem :eek:
I guessed at least the front cam bearing was melted. I will pm you my addy for the case of beer. :biggrin: It was probably the first to go and then the others followed. Chances are it ran without oil pressure long enough to grab the front cam bearing. It is worth checking a new cam for straightness because they can have some runout to them. If bent, they can be straightened in a press. Run some heavy assembly lube on the cam bearings and be sure to prime the engine till you see oil coming out around the lifter bores when on the stand. Prime again when in the car and oil cooler is installed right before you start it up. The last thing i do before i start is prime and install and set the cam sensor. I run the coated cam bearings with a standard volume oil pump and havent had a problem in a long time. I would avoid the HV pump, its too hard on the cam bearings when the engine is cold started.
 
gnxtc2 said:
Got to find a shop that will make sure the cam passages are true. It spun all 4 cam bearings, why??? They had to have messed up the cam bearing bore, who knows if the bearing will stay put now.
Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
If it spun all 4 bearings it isnt worth fixing. Ive heard the cam bore can be line honed and larger id cam bearings installed, but its not worth it imo.
 
The rolled fillets in the turbo crank increase the life expectancy of the crank, not the horsepower/torque capacity. They are insurance against fatigue cracking. Sure, you can make lots of power with the N/A crank. It just won't last as long as a turbo crank.
 
Ormand said:
The rolled fillets in the turbo crank increase the life expectancy of the crank, not the horsepower/torque capacity. They are insurance against fatigue cracking. Sure, you can make lots of power with the N/A crank. It just won't last as long as a turbo crank.
Theoretically correct, but this has not been proven. I just dont see a lot of crank failures period. There have been a few but not many. Ferrous based forgings rarely fatigue crack any way. Its more common with aluminum and titanium though.
 
MeanBuicks said:
The production cranks are all cast, not forged.
My bad. I should have noted that. There actually nodular iron which rarely fail because of fatigue fractures.
 
if you had to pick
ta cam bearings or trw (federal mogal)?


camshaft
edelbrock , comp cam ,or sealed power ?


oh i called the machine shop there going to call me back

that motor must of been sitting because the bearing are stamped 94
 
TA bearings they come coated also,I'd get those. They are dual grooved and have smaller oil hole which sends more oil down stairs and help psi.

Cam whoever is cheapest probably Sealed Power or Edelbrock
 
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