Oil pump prime

[larrym]

I'm looking to boost my oil pressure a bit until I pop the motor out for a freshen up this winter, new roller cam and possibly bearings didn't like how the rear main looked when I did the seal.

I'm installing a thrust plate on the pump, when I do this can I just disconnect the orange wire and spin the motor until I see oil pressure or should I pull the cam sensor and a spin it with a drill?

Right now my pressure is 60 at start up when it warms up its 25 at cruise and about 8 at idle the needle is jumping around a bit too this is new and kind of unnerving.

I do have some noise at the cam sensor when I listen with the stethoscope even after shimming the sensor, that's part of the reason its coming out, could be pump clearance, might be the chain, cam, a lifter on the way out needs an inspection for sure, compression test was good. I had the heads re worked last year.

 

[750H.P.V6]

If you have the oil pump apart be sure to pack the gear pocket with some light grease. Prime the engine with an electric drill. Just cranking the engine with the ECM power disconnected isn't effective.

Neal

 

[turbofabricator]

I agree with Neal. I use petroleum jelly (vasoline) to pack the pump gears and use a std small block chevy oil pump priming tool to spin the pump clock-wise (looking down on the pump shaft). A chevy oil pump priming tool is cheap at most parts stores. Tighten the pump thrust clearance as much as possible by using a thinner pump cover gasket. TA Performance seels a pump shim kit. Measure gasket thickness and put the thinnest gasket you can find, while sill being able to turn the pump by hand with light oil on the gears and shafts. Once you get the thrust clearance to .0005" to .0015" this will help hot idle oil pressure. Also radius all the passages in the timing cover (requires removal of timing cover) and grind the divider wall down about .5" on the pump inlet port. If all this work nets you very little gain in pressure, it's time to R&R the bearings. You can R&R the bearings in the car, too. Not a huge job. YOu can even hand polish the carank journals if need be with stips of crocus cloth and use copius amounts of brake clean and compressed air. If ring seal is good (with good compression it probably is fine) re-doing bearings and modding the oil pump will give you another 30,000 miles on the engine for a few days of workTiming chain is easy to do at the same time. Now....Get after it. Quit procrastinating.

 

[larrym]

I agree with Neal. I use petroleum jelly (vasoline) to pack the pump gears and use a std small block chevy oil pump priming tool to spin the pump clock-wise (looking down on the pump shaft). A chevy oil pump priming tool is cheap at most parts stores. Tighten the pump thrust clearance as much as possible by using a thinner pump cover gasket. TA Performance seels a pump shim kit. Measure gasket thickness and put the thinnest gasket you can find, while sill being able to turn the pump by hand with light oil on the gears and shafts. Once you get the thrust clearance to .0005" to .0015" this will help hot idle oil pressure. Also radius all the passages in the timing cover (requires removal of timing cover) and grind the divider wall down about .5" on the pump inlet port. If all this work nets you very little gain in pressure, it's time to R&R the bearings. You can R&R the bearings in the car, too. Not a huge job. YOu can even hand polish the carank journals if need be with stips of crocus cloth and use copius amounts of brake clean and compressed air. If ring seal is good (with good compression it probably is fine) re-doing bearings and modding the oil pump will give you another 30,000 miles on the engine for a few days of workTiming chain is easy to do at the same time. Now....Get after it. Quit procrastinating.

Thanks Ken

Its coming out next week wanna make a trip to the Island?
Just kidding I got lots of help, gonna throw in a roller cam at the same time new chain and springs.

Picked up the SBC prime tool for $20.00 at Lordco what else should I look to pick up for tools?

Borrowed an engine hoist and stand, have a good torque wench already and I'm going to pick up valve spring compressor.

Have a decent compressor and some air tools including a die grinder.

Compression was good 160 on 4 cylinders 155 one and 165 on the other.

good winter project for me! Last year I rebuilt the suspension.

 

[turbofabricator]

Going that far.......give it a quick hone and hot tank add new rings and you gotta new one to have fun with. Stroker kit would be even more fun, although alot more money.

 

[larrym]

I agree with Neal. I use petroleum jelly (vasoline) to pack the pump gears and use a std small block chevy oil pump priming tool to spin the pump clock-wise (looking down on the pump shaft). A chevy oil pump priming tool is cheap at most parts stores. Tighten the pump thrust clearance as much as possible by using a thinner pump cover gasket. TA Performance seels a pump shim kit. Measure gasket thickness and put the thinnest gasket you can find, while sill being able to turn the pump by hand with light oil on the gears and shafts. Once you get the thrust clearance to .0005" to .0015" this will help hot idle oil pressure. Also radius all the passages in the timing cover (requires removal of timing cover) and grind the divider wall down about .5" on the pump inlet port. If all this work nets you very little gain in pressure, it's time to R&R the bearings. You can R&R the bearings in the car, too. Not a huge job. YOu can even hand polish the carank journals if need be with stips of crocus cloth and use copius amounts of brake clean and compressed air. If ring seal is good (with good compression it probably is fine) re-doing bearings and modding the oil pump will give you another 30,000 miles on the engine for a few days of workTiming chain is easy to do at the same time. Now....Get after it. Quit procrastinating.

This the area you refering to Ken on the pump to wall?