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Oil Pump Upgrade.. YES or NO??

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Redneck

It's Been Awhile!!!
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Messages
75
Hey all... I am going to be replacing my TIMING CHAN this weekend and was wondering if i should consider an upgrade to a HIGHER VOLUME OIL PUMP while I am there. I have a STOCK 87 GN with STOCK TURBO. THe car will EVENTUALLY be a low 12's car possibly 11's (Yeah Baby). I bought the car a few weeks ago and it is ALL STOCK.

Also, if you all have an other ideas on parts that should be considered please let me know.

Thanks,
Tony
 
Do you know the oil press. now? If not I would at leased run a booster plate. If the eng. has a "million miles" I would run the big pump. If not the stock pump is more than fine. If the car has low miles rebuild the pump/ with booster plate, stock gears and keep the end clearance as tight as you can .002 - .003,Piece of cake:cool:
 
Oil Pressure..

The oil pressure now is at around 20psi at idle and like 60's while driving. If you could help with a part number of a bigger oil pump then that would be great too.

Thanks,
Tony
 
Sealed Power makes a high-volume pump kit for the 3.8L/4.1L V6. The part number is 224-518V. Installation involves mounting a spacer plate to the end of the oil pump housing on the timing cover using press-fit pins in holes which you drill, installation of new longer gears and shaft, and installation of a hardened steel booster plate if your end cover is worn. Alignment of the spacer plate is critical, as are the end and side clearances on the gears if you want to make useable pressure. The kit works well, just take your time and install it exactly as the directions recommend.

Takes a couple of hours if all goes well.

Been there, done that......
 
I'll never run a 231 w/o the HV pump. BTW, there is a crapload of reading ahead of you at gnttype.org....start with the spring cleaning section and work from there. 3 things you must have asap are, Scanmaster, new HP fuel pump and regulator and some sort of cold-air induction. OK, that might be 4. These are the very first things I would recommend to any new TR owner.
HTH
Jim
 
If your oil pressure is fine now, leave it be...There have been many, many high mile TR's that haven't had the oil pumps touched...

Replace the timing chain with a stock steel replacement from Autozone or other parts store, replace the stock fuel pump with a Walbro 340 and hotwire kit, get an adjustable fuel pressure reg., and some type of scantool(Scanmaster, TurboLink, etc.) and tune, tune, tune...

And last but not least, read EVERYTHING at www.gnttype.org ...These cars don't need a whole lot changed from factory to get them to run reliably fast...Where a lot of people get into trouble is when they change things that don't need to be changed...These motors were amazingly strong and well-built from the factory...As the saying goes, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Many people have gone well into the 11s on stock, unopened motors...

The only thing that you also might need to do is to change the valve springs...DO NOT pull the heads to do that...Change them right on the car...The factory had some magical, mystical way of torquing the heads that keep the motors from blowing head gaskets that once the heads have been removed, it is a crap shoot to get them to seal as well as the factory did...

Where is Weston, FL??? Maybe we could steer you to some local GN/TR people that would be able to advise you on what needs to be done and what you shouldn't do...

Oh, yeah...Stay away from the hi-vol oil pumps if your oil pressure is fine with the stock setup...It just isn't needed on these motors...
 
Thanks

I agree with you concerning the "If it aint broke don't fix it" theory. I was just wondering if it would be something to consider since I will be there. I am quite aware of the mods at GNTTYPE I have alot of resources that are available to me. As VP of the "South Florida Turbo Buick Club" we have built a close following. This is the first time out of the other 2 cars I have owned that I am attempting these repairs. I was wondering the thoughts of the members relating to the Oil Pump theory as it seems that there is mixed emotions locally on the whole subject. So, at this point I think that I am moving forward. Let me know if you all have any other thoughts on things that I might consider while I am down there. Thanks for all of the kind replies keep em coming as good ideas are always something that I could use.

Later
Tony
 
Im with Russ, 20 lbs at hot idle is perfect, especially with a stock motor and pump. Leave it be:D Mark
 
Does anyone have a recommendation for a quality stock replacement valve spring set? GM? Mine have 140k on the originals.

Terry

86TT
 
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