Ok, I had a lifter tapping and pulled the intake...

[TT/Ameasap]

The oil is contaminated I know. The cam looks to be OK? Just want opinions. The reason I tore into this motor is because the intake rocker on #4 was only moving just a bit while the others were....well...rocking.This is my first time digging into a motor, so if you have any tricks or suggestions please lemme know. I really need to be coached through this. I have GN buddies, but the engine guys are all far away from me. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Turbo1dr]

You need another camshaft and lifters if one of them didn't move very much. People will tell you that you need to pull the engine and rebuild it but just a cam/lifter change will do just fine. Also pull the oil pan to clean also. I've done plenty like that in customers cars over 20 years.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Engine is already built. Maybe 1k miles. Aftermarket hydrolic cam and lifters. Noticed lifter sticking and wanted to put GM stock units back in. Am I wrong for thinking this? I want to change lifters,rockers and rocker shaft. push rods are champion titanium.

 

[Turbo1dr]

Ok, now that you said the engine "only" has 1k miles on it I'm afraid that cam put A LOT of metal in the engine in a very short period of time. You may have to go back in and rebuild it again. If it was a very gradual cam failure over a period of say....20,000 miles I'd stick with my other post about just putting a cam and lifters in and be done.

You can't just put new lifters on a cam that the lobe is worn off of.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

I am asking if the lobes are worn off. I didnt think it was that bad, but wanted opinions. Thats why I have the pics.

If you see anything out of wack please elaborate.I also dont know the excact miles on the motor. caould be a few thousand. I will have to get with the previous owner on that. Car ran excellent until this tapping noise. Compression was 150psi on all cyls. Should I go with a billit roller cam?

 

[Turbo1dr]

Take the rocker arms off and remove the lifters. Look at the bottom of the lifters. They should be flat with no concave at all and should have almost a mirror polish. If it's concaved any at all the cam has wiped a lobe and will have to be replaced along with ALL new lifters. Don't use any of those lifters you already have on the new cam. They will make the new cam go bad VERY fast.

Billet is the best kind of cam but more expensive. I've ran one for 9 years and it still looks good. I've never run a iron roller before so I can't say how long it will last.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Only way to be sure is to pull the cam and measure the lobes.

As #4 wasn't going thru the motions, maybe you have a collapsed lifter.

 

[Lee Thompson]

From what I can see

# 1 intake lobe is gone or going.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

#4 lifter is worn badly. Wiped lobe is the problem. I am thinking the springs from the champion heads were too much load on this cam. I am going to inspect the bearings here shortly and report back.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Time to go roller.......

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Time to go roller.......

What will I need to go roller and how much will this cost?

 

[jpwalt1987]

Call Dan @DLS for a complete roller setup. He will definitly steer you in the right direction. jeremy

 

[MikeL.]

2nd what Lee and Turbo1dr stated. My popping while under boost was the result of the notorious number three lifter. You'll be surprised how much material will be stuck to the bottom of the oil pickup after you drop the pan.

The hydraulic vs roller setup has been beaten to death on all the boards, but what I went through is exactly the same as your situation, it was enough to convince me to step up to a roller. I can now sleep at night.

 

[turbobose13]

you can also call Full Throttle, They might be cheaper.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Update!!

Finally got the pan off! Big chunk in the pan about the size of a dime and lots of fine gray shavings. Checked #2 main bearing and all is well. Should I check anything else before I clean the pan and bolt back up????? And is it 90#tq for main bolts im assuming?

 

[Silver 'T' Top]

Flush out the lifter valley and the top of the heads completely before putting the pan back on for good, if you are running the stock oil cooler, you can be sure there is a bunch of debris in there also.

 

[Turbo1dr]

Pictures?




I noticed in the last picture you posted...if you take those metal heater pipes off with them still hooked on the intake, it will get them out of your way and provide a lot more room to work around the pushrods/rocker arms. (Three hose clamps and a vacuum line and it's off!)

 

[TT/Ameasap]

So, just flush the motor and seal it back up? Dont check any other bearings?

I appreciate this help guys.

And a quick pic of my thrust bearing

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Finally got the pan off! Big chunk in the pan about the size of a dime and lots of fine gray shavings. Checked #2 main bearing and all is well. Should I check anything else before I clean the pan and bolt back up????? And is it 90#tq for main bolts im assuming?

What is the "big chunk"? Is it lifter material?

You ned to make sure that stuff is out of the oil passages, oil pump, etc. You should also check all the bearings, not just a random sample.

Better to do it right the first time, then to be back in there in a few days/months....

 

[TT/Ameasap]

The big chunk looks like rough casting. I will get a pic of that too.

I think this piece is something else. It looks to have threads in it with blue silicon. I really thinkg the cam and lifter were grinding together and made all the shavings eventually making a flatter contact point and causing the knocking sound to get louder.