These cars are money pits
see post #4......Well time to pay out, who ever said head gasket I owe beer too. Noise could be a few lifter that are gone so I'll beer up anyone who called that too.
Pulled the intake clear as day you can see a torn/ripped head gasket.
Time to pull the motor. Will upgrade to a steel crank instead of cast as well. More insurance.
Yay fun time
Paul is one of ther absolute best in the business, and I've tried to read every post he's ever put up. I wish I had 1/100th of his knowledge.Looks like pacecarta n chuck are the winners! Tell me what kind of beer you love, I'm into microbrews myself, my local watering hole has 200 canned choices n 24 taps, called Hollingshead. Where are you 2 located??
If I missed some1 just reference the post #
Food for thought. I had a .030 over block I raced. I cracked into the water jacket in 3 separate cylinders. I sleeved the first two, but the third went right up to the deck and I had to scrap the block. I highly suggest you find a block as close to standard as possible.I'm reading 60 over will work but depends on the results of sonic checking the block
^^^^ THIS!Food for thought. I had a .030 over block I raced. I cracked into the water jacket in 3 separate cylinders. I sleeved the first two, but the third went right up to the deck and I had to scrap the block. I highly suggest you find a block as close to standard as possible.
Any recommendations as to who or where I can search for a shortblock? I just bought a forged crank so finding just the block would be a choice first. I know I'll need pistons n rods as well. If I find a shortblock thats good I can always sell the crank and get my money back at least. Thank you for your input and opinion!While you're at it, check to see how far the main and rod journals have been ground. It's been rebuilt at least once, so it's likely been ground. If the rods/crank can be salvaged, have both magnafluxed. And have the big ends on the rods checked for size. You're into a new set of pistons as well.
My 2 cents. I'd look for a short block built by a qualified Buick engine builder. Might be cheaper in the long run...and you'd sleep well at night knowing it was built by someone that knows their shit with these 109's.
I didn't see any cracks in the heads so thank god for that. I'm sure they warped a little and will have to be surfaced, when I get the surfacing done I'm going to do a valve job as well since I'm in it already. The crank is cast and looked to be 10 over. I just bought a forged crank so I have that ready to go and be balanced with new rods and new pistons. Hoping to find a block standard bore if possible, but I'll take a 10, 20, even 30 over block if its really nice and ready to rock.^^^^ THIS!
That block is toast. Given the issues, if you even consider reusing it, have it magged, line bore, etc, checked, BEFORE you pump a bunch of $$$ into it. At .040, and a bit of core shift, and it's already on the ragged edge.
Wrist pins and pistons swelled up, shoved the pistons into the walls, created the mess.
Pay attention to the heads, too. Warped? Cracked? etc?
Given it's already been "into", what's the crank look like? already cut?
That's exactly where I'd be heading.I think Lou has a 4.1 stroker sitting on a stand looking for a car