ok, some little bugs to work out with the new motor

fly89gta

New Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2001
i know i have a slight vacumn leak at the vac. block. So i'm sure that's part of the problem right there. My car stumbles BAD at like 2K when it warms up. After coming to a stop light the car sooooo wants to just die, after about 5 seconds of it ready to die the idle shoots up to around 1500 then down to about 1000. When i take off the car feels like its running on 3 cylinders till it gets around 2500-3000. I thought maybe the IAC..not sure, i'm getting A LOT of knock too, as much as 10 degrees(i know i know i can blow up the motor...i don't get much into the boost)


my mods are listed below, with a Pep Boys MAF(POS i know...)

I have a Walbro 340 and hotwire kit,but its not installed yet. I'm new to the turbo buick stuff and i'm learning quick, but i need help BAD, i can't really get on the gas because of knock..and i ALWAYS run 93 octane...
 
and i KNOW i'm running lean cause my BL's on scanmaster read around 105(under 128 is lean right?) and my O2's are VERY erratic all of a sudden(new O2)
 
I think that BLMs under 128 inidicate a rich condition and the computer is pulling fuel. You may be running rich - did you pull the plugs? If you know you have a vacume leak I would fix that first and see how the car runs as it can cause all types of idle and driveability problems.
 
First things first, Put the Walbro pump (with fresh sock & filter) in NOW--- Or DO NOT get into boost untill you do. At the moment you probably have the original 89 V8 pump in there- VERY Underrated as far as Volume Goes. Also the Factory TTA's have original wider metal fuel lines than the V8 (Unfortanity they are NO LONGER available). Secondly- I can almost GUARANTEE the POS Re-Manned Mass Air is causing all the other problems.


Fly, I see you have Philly listed! If you are in the Northeast, Stop by the Sunoco Station at Frankford & Tyson aves, as I'm there every Fri. night until 11, I'll throw my Mass-Air on there & we'll test it out! Let me know.....
 
don't press your luck with those garbage pep boys maf's - i tried two of them - one read 105blm, the next 150 without changing ANYTHING ... they're waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay out of calibration. You're not going to fix it by messing with the fuel pressure to get the correct base, either. I got the maf translator and lt1 maf from ramchargers. Get that setup, DO THE PUMP and hotwire!
turn the boost down before you bust it
(what's it set at to get 10 degrees of knock?)
 
the boost SHOULD be at stock level(i have to rerun the boost gauge, the plastic **** tubing broke so i have no boost gauge)

Ok, so i'm running rich, why the hell am i getting knock????? i don't understand hmmmm...i'll have to check out the BL's while under boost, could be a good chance that i'm leaning out when i hit the boost range.

Its weird, my BL's indicate rich but my O2's can dip into the 500's...i know i need to get that pump out, but i'm gonna try to get that vacumn block this weekend.

Also i DO have a leak where the turbo and DP meet(the exhaust donut is shot) what problems can that cause?

thanks guys! :)
 
also, if you guys could be me some idea on where my scanmaster readings should be

the TPS is dead on, where should the IAC be?

what is does the INT stand for on the scanmaster?
 
Thought you had the pump already in there? ugh, put that in this weekend if you can. The "int" is the integrator or short term fuel adjustment. This number should lock onto 128 (ideal for BLMs) at WOT and fluctuate as you drive between 115-138 or so. BLM are what you should also be paying close attention to. this is your block Learn Multiplier or your long term fuel correction. This should be at or around 128 @ WOT. This will also fluctuate while driving. Above 128 and you are lean, below 128 you are rich. The ECM should compensate for this. AT WOT is where it becomes very important. Fix that damn vacuum leak, they wreak havoc on these cars and put in that pump. Then do some more testing.
 
The wanting to die at a light is the IAC, you can find the reset procedure at gnttype.org, you use a paper clip to ground it at the ALDL connection and then follow the rest of the instructions. Also you may want to pull the IAC out and clean any carbon build up off the pintle. When my family recently bought the stock (thats gotta be rare in it self) 86 GN it would get all kinds of knock, and replacing the fuel pump with a walbro 340, and a new MAF translator with LT1 MAF cured all the problems. The leak at the downpipe and turbo really isn't hurting anything exept maybe letting the boost rise a little. Good luck, I know those fuel pumps on the 3rd gens or real hassles.
 
yeah i know i have to get that pump in.

i'm just waiting on my friend for his LT1 MAF and T+

i need the vac. block and i'll pull the IAC this weekend and clean this **** out of it

hopefully that will cure my problems :)
 
also, i have a trasher chip, i know they run rich at idle, i'll keep an eye on my BLM's under boost and see what happens..
 
Tony.......

Are you sure you remembered to remove Gumby from the plenum before you started the car?

;)
 
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