Only 10psi at WOT

[NickWE4]

I just recently got an '87 T-type WE4 and it only shows 10psi of boost at WOT. The rpms get to like 4 to 5k before shifts too. I know it needs a TCC, but surely that can't be what this is all about? Anyone got any ideas?

 

[Scarab]

if the converter is locked it will build boost very slow. How do you know it needs a TCC?

 

[NickWE4]

if the converter is locked it will build boost very slow. How do you know it needs a TCC?

I made another post about bucking real bad when coming to a stop. I also have no overdrive

 

[V6sleeper]

Check for header cracks

 

[mikestertwo]

Is the car all stock? Are you measuring boost with the factory gauge or aftermarket gauge. Does the wastegate lever move freely? Did you check the plumbing on the wastegate to make sure it is correct? It will only make about 10-11 pounds of boost if the wastegate solenoid is stuck closed or the wastegate is plumbed directly to the turbo compressor without any vent to increase boost.

 

[NickWE4]

Is the car all stock? Are you measuring boost with the factory gauge or aftermarket gauge. Does the wastegate lever move freely? Did you check the plumbing on the wastegate to make sure it is correct? It will only make about 10-11 pounds of boost if the wastegate solenoid is stuck closed or the wastegate is plumbed directly to the turbo compressor without any vent to increase boost.

It has a bigger turbo, injectors, and cam according to who I bought it from. Stock wastegate actuator. I'll check the rod when I get off work but how do I check the plumbing? Also I am going off the stock boost gauge

 

[mikestertwo]

It has a bigger turbo, injectors, and cam according to who I bought it from. Stock wastegate actuator. I'll check the rod when I get off work but how do I check the plumbing? Also I am going off the stock boost gauge

First....the factory gauge is highly inaccurate especially after 30 years. Put a mechanical gauge on it to verify boost. Post a picture of the wastegate plumbing so we can see exactly how it is plumbed. There should be a hose from the output of the compressor going directly to a plastic "T". On the other side of the "T" you should have 2 hoses. One should go to the wastegate actuator, the other should go to the wastegate solenoid. It would be nice to know exactly what mods were done to the motor.

 

[NickWE4]

First....the factory gauge is highly inaccurate especially after 30 years. Put a mechanical gauge on it to verify boost. Post a picture of the wastegate plumbing so we can see exactly how it is plumbed. There should be a hose from the output of the compressor going directly to a plastic "T". On the other side of the "T" you should have 2 hoses. One should go to the wastegate actuator, the other should go to the wastegate solenoid. It would be nice to know exactly what mods were done to the motor.

I'm not exactly sure what mods were done except the bigger turbo, cam, and injectors. But I'll try to get some pictures when I get off work later. I'm new to these cars and turbo cars in general, so I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for

Keep relying on junk instruments, and you'll be looking for a pocket full of cash.
Stay out of the WOT stuff, til you get some reliable instruments, and check the car out. {Or, have someone that knows them, do it for you.}

 

[NickWE4]

Keep relying on junk instruments, and you'll be looking for a pocket full of cash.
Stay out of the WOT stuff, til you get some reliable instruments, and check the car out. {Or, have someone that knows them, do it for you.}

The car just doesn't seem to be running as I think it should. I figure there should be more then 10psi of boost and the high rpm shifting is all the time, not just WOT. And that worries me a bit

 

[mikestertwo]

The car just doesn't seem to be running as I think it should. I figure there should be more then 10psi of boost and the high rpm shifting is all the time, not just WOT. And that worries me a bit

I would take Chuck's advice and have someone who knows these cars take a look at it. It could be the T.V. cable is adjusted too tight giving you the late shifts. Not to stir anything up but I would be suspicious of the symptoms. It could be the transmission is going south and the previous owner limited the boost and tightened the T.V. cable to increase the pump pressure in the transmission to keep it from slipping.

 

[John Larkin]

Or it could have spit the spring out of the governor. You should really try to find someone nearby that can at least walk you through some basics. Where are you located?

 

[NickWE4]

Or it could have spit the spring out of the governor. You should really try to find someone nearby that can at least walk you through some basics. Where are you located?

I'm located in mid Missouri. I dont know anyone around that knows these cars

 

[John Larkin]

Probably be a good idea to tackle one issue at a time. Fix the TCC first, set the TV cable properly, and while the pan is off check the governor. Post pictures along the way and you will get more help.

Do get a boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge and consider a Scanmaster. You really need all 3 eventually.

 

[hflwyo]

I'm located in mid Missouri. I dont know anyone around that knows these cars

Where are you at I am in the Columbia area.

 

[NickWE4]

Probably be a good idea to tackle one issue at a time. Fix the TCC first, set the TV cable properly, and while the pan is off check the governor. Post pictures along the way and you will get more help.

Do get a boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge and consider a Scanmaster. You really need all 3 eventually.

Thanks. Will do

 

[NickWE4]

Where are you at I am in the Columbia area.

I'm in Cole Camp

 

[WSLN 6]

If you have a service engine light on, probably a code 31, blown ecm/sol 10 amp fuse. Blows when a faulty tcc solenoid tries to lock up, or when the boost solenoid sees over 10psi and tries to activate. Confirm by unplugging harness on driver side of trans, and go for a little drive getting into boost.

 

[NickWE4]

If you have a service engine light on, probably a code 31, blown ecm/sol 10 amp fuse. Blows when a faulty tcc solenoid tries to lock up, or when the boost solenoid sees over 10psi and tries to activate. Confirm by unplugging harness on driver side of trans, and go for a little drive getting into boost.

No service engine light on

 

[Gary Durden]

Did you unplug and drive it?