Overheated the GN...doh!
- Thread starter WakkoSS
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Pronto
No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
- Messages
- 16,818
I'd pressure test it then put some dye in the system to check where it's going. You may not be happy with your results.
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 19,243
Hey, if you're losin' water, add a can of metalic block seal. Follow the directions. Won't hurt anything. Beats engine work. I've fixed many NA 3.8s with a water loss problem.
Get the F-body radiator..........cheap enuf and works. Permacool Motor oil and trans cooler .... $100 in Summit or use the F-body trans cooler and buy a Permacool motor oil cooler. Measure for and get longer oil cooler hoses made up to run cooler out front of radiator. About $50.
Get the F-body radiator..........cheap enuf and works. Permacool Motor oil and trans cooler .... $100 in Summit or use the F-body trans cooler and buy a Permacool motor oil cooler. Measure for and get longer oil cooler hoses made up to run cooler out front of radiator. About $50.
I agree...get the new radiator. I put in a griffin aluminum one when my stocker crapped out..ramchargers fans and I rarely see over 165 degrees.
But another question for y'all.....it does not have the oil/tranny cooler integrated. I use a tranny cooler and I have the PTE remote oil system. Is this enough to cool the oil?
But another question for y'all.....it does not have the oil/tranny cooler integrated. I use a tranny cooler and I have the PTE remote oil system. Is this enough to cool the oil?
1stTurboGN
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2004
- Messages
- 65
more water!!!
WakkoSS, If you pour more water into the radiator, and you see it going down, most of it cannot be going into the engine while it is not running, and if it isnt leaking onto the floor, it has to be going into the radiator. I know it may seem like a crazy amount of water to be going in there but keep putting more in. the reason it sinks is because it takes a while for the water to push the air out of the rails in the radiator and fill them up. all that heat plus no water probally completely dried that thing up. just my 2 cents. good luck
WakkoSS, If you pour more water into the radiator, and you see it going down, most of it cannot be going into the engine while it is not running, and if it isnt leaking onto the floor, it has to be going into the radiator. I know it may seem like a crazy amount of water to be going in there but keep putting more in. the reason it sinks is because it takes a while for the water to push the air out of the rails in the radiator and fill them up. all that heat plus no water probally completely dried that thing up. just my 2 cents. good luck
Ok, I kept filling the radiator up until it wouldn't take anymore water and put a new cap on (old cap was literally coming apart). I drove around and the temperature was proportional to the engine's output. 80 mph brought 225 temps, 50 brought 210. This is in 90 degree heat and no A/C. On the way home it was about to storm, so it was about 75 and the engine never got above 195. Water level stayed fine though...so I guess it really was just empty.
Car's parked for now though, until I can replace the radiator and hoses, install the Ramcharger's fans and fix my damned brakes. That's next week's project!
John, buying the F body radiator for 100 bucks and then using the coolers brings the work and cost up and over the price of recoring my original one. I've also found a stock replacement on RadiatorBarn.com for 229 with oil cooler. Is there an advantage using the F body, other than weight?
Car's parked for now though, until I can replace the radiator and hoses, install the Ramcharger's fans and fix my damned brakes. That's next week's project!
John, buying the F body radiator for 100 bucks and then using the coolers brings the work and cost up and over the price of recoring my original one. I've also found a stock replacement on RadiatorBarn.com for 229 with oil cooler. Is there an advantage using the F body, other than weight?
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 19,243
As long as it runs cool, it's the easier way to go to just re-core.
Cooling system update!
Ok...took out the factory radiator today and brought it to a local rebuilder. I examined the old core later on and it was definitely all clogged up. Looked like someone was growing cauliflower all over it. Took the rad home (174.50 later) and installed it with my new Ramcharger's fans.
Verdict...fans came on at 155 or so (based on ScanMaster) and temps just kept climbing. At 210 or so they leveled out and occasionally jumped up to 212 but that was all. Bottom radiator hose was cool to the touch, upper was really hot, D/S of the radiator was hot too. Before the new radiator install, the temps would go up to 220-230, so the new system helped, but obviously there is another problem. Next step, THERMOSTAT. Is it better to run a gutted stocker or 160/180? I'm not too keen on 160s, but I'm not sure if they make 180s for our cars. I didn't do the Tstat yet since I haven't got a billet tstat housing and I'm not looking to take the car out of commission for a week if the original one crumbles.
I'm currently using ONLY distilled water and after the system is panned out will add my RMI25.
Oh, I also noticed that the fans do NOT come on when I turn on the A/C. Just at 155. Which relay is malfunctioning?
Ok...took out the factory radiator today and brought it to a local rebuilder. I examined the old core later on and it was definitely all clogged up. Looked like someone was growing cauliflower all over it. Took the rad home (174.50 later) and installed it with my new Ramcharger's fans.
Verdict...fans came on at 155 or so (based on ScanMaster) and temps just kept climbing. At 210 or so they leveled out and occasionally jumped up to 212 but that was all. Bottom radiator hose was cool to the touch, upper was really hot, D/S of the radiator was hot too. Before the new radiator install, the temps would go up to 220-230, so the new system helped, but obviously there is another problem. Next step, THERMOSTAT. Is it better to run a gutted stocker or 160/180? I'm not too keen on 160s, but I'm not sure if they make 180s for our cars. I didn't do the Tstat yet since I haven't got a billet tstat housing and I'm not looking to take the car out of commission for a week if the original one crumbles.
I'm currently using ONLY distilled water and after the system is panned out will add my RMI25.
Oh, I also noticed that the fans do NOT come on when I turn on the A/C. Just at 155. Which relay is malfunctioning?
TylerDurden
Jack's Smirking Revenge
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,104
ian, why not keen on a 160 stat, dude i have a stock rad (5 years old), 160 stat, and a FMIC that covers half of the radiator and i never see more than 180...even in this heat...though i rarely use the AC
when i let the car sit and idle for say 15 min or more, i get in the car and its sitting right at 160...that was 3 days ago and it was 97* out.
when i let the car sit and idle for say 15 min or more, i get in the car and its sitting right at 160...that was 3 days ago and it was 97* out.
Engines run more efficiently at higher temps. The advantage of the lower temp thermostat is the air charge is cooler from the cooler intake manifold. I would think it'd be better to run 180 and let the IC and cold air kit cool the intake charge.
Am I misguided?
Am I misguided?
slamming 6
Drag Master
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Messages
- 439
misguided YES but right,Ian I got your call to late to return it so I will call you Thursday afternoon.
turbofish38
Le Pétomane
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2002
- Messages
- 6,160
The stock thermostat is 180 degrees. I dont think you will find one on the shelf as it is only used on a TR.
GM part number 12353872
Delco part number 131-37
GM part number 12353872
Delco part number 131-37
Thanks for the part numbers!
When it rains it pours. Got up yesterday morning and the radiator was low. I start to fill it up, and water rushes out the bottom of the driver side tank. Apparantly the rubber base shifted upon install and the bracket pierced the bottom of the tank. Sooooo, out it comes and I get it brazed. Put it all back together again and took the car out for a 20 mile drive. 165-167 the whole time. Now that was in 75-80 degree night time weather driving like a little old lady. Still want to change the Tstat for safety's sake, but at least I know the rad/fans are working.
Car's parked though, as the powermaster is out and my new drag radials are rubbing the fenderwell and there's a slice on the sidewall now. Suuuuuucks.
When it rains it pours. Got up yesterday morning and the radiator was low. I start to fill it up, and water rushes out the bottom of the driver side tank. Apparantly the rubber base shifted upon install and the bracket pierced the bottom of the tank. Sooooo, out it comes and I get it brazed. Put it all back together again and took the car out for a 20 mile drive. 165-167 the whole time. Now that was in 75-80 degree night time weather driving like a little old lady. Still want to change the Tstat for safety's sake, but at least I know the rad/fans are working.
Car's parked though, as the powermaster is out and my new drag radials are rubbing the fenderwell and there's a slice on the sidewall now. Suuuuuucks.
