Ok, I said I would never build my car. I have had it stock for years and I think I am ready to build it. Dont want to go inside the engine. I am looking for best combos you guys have had in the past putting injectors, coils, IC ECM's and other bolt-ons that gave you the best performance. Tranny is already built w/ stock converter. Stock gearing in the rear. Just drop some parts and where you found them. I could call postons or kirbans but they will only give me what they sell not how it actually performed. THanks in advance.
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racemybuick
Hot Air Teacher/Student
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2003
- Messages
- 1,174
How much?
Great idea #1. The main question now should be, how much are you looking to spend. When you determine how much you are willing to budget into your hot air, then you gotta decide how fast. Usually those two are dependant upon eachother. I have been getting bits and pieces together for almost a year, and I am unsure how fast my car will go due to previous mechanic's errors. My car will be garaged probably for another year. GNTTYPE.ORG has a recipies page on 12 sec hot airs.
My recipie so far:
TA 49 precision Turbo charger-Precisionte.com (650+shipping)
42.5 lb injectors-Precisionte.com (250+shipping)
Walbro 340 hotwired fuel pump Ebay-(100+shipping)
double roller TC-unknown
Lunati 210/205 cam Lunaticams.com (149.99+)
K&N air filter- summitracing.com (49.99+)
Postons (unknown prices):
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reg
Ceramic coated headers
frame connectors
Kenne Bell (unknow prices):
Adjustable wastegate
Oil booster plate
Oil and Transmission Coolers
Summit racing for all guages and oil fittings and small stuff.
I figure that I personally invested about $2000 so far, and I still have a lot of restoration to do. Before you get started with all the mods, make sure your car is running optimumly. Get everything monitored, and get as many necessary guages as possible. Oil Press, water temp, boost, tach and some scan tool. Turbolink or scanmaster are the most popular. Good luck!
See my homepage for description of parts and a couple pics
John
Great idea #1. The main question now should be, how much are you looking to spend. When you determine how much you are willing to budget into your hot air, then you gotta decide how fast. Usually those two are dependant upon eachother. I have been getting bits and pieces together for almost a year, and I am unsure how fast my car will go due to previous mechanic's errors. My car will be garaged probably for another year. GNTTYPE.ORG has a recipies page on 12 sec hot airs.
My recipie so far:
TA 49 precision Turbo charger-Precisionte.com (650+shipping)
42.5 lb injectors-Precisionte.com (250+shipping)
Walbro 340 hotwired fuel pump Ebay-(100+shipping)
double roller TC-unknown
Lunati 210/205 cam Lunaticams.com (149.99+)
K&N air filter- summitracing.com (49.99+)
Postons (unknown prices):
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reg
Ceramic coated headers
frame connectors
Kenne Bell (unknow prices):
Adjustable wastegate
Oil booster plate
Oil and Transmission Coolers
Summit racing for all guages and oil fittings and small stuff.
I figure that I personally invested about $2000 so far, and I still have a lot of restoration to do. Before you get started with all the mods, make sure your car is running optimumly. Get everything monitored, and get as many necessary guages as possible. Oil Press, water temp, boost, tach and some scan tool. Turbolink or scanmaster are the most popular. Good luck!
See my homepage for description of parts and a couple pics
John
T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
- Messages
- 2,146
Start with the fuel system first (pump, injectors, regulator), then a good free flowing exhaust// no cross flow mufflers// a Chip, an 8" k&n made a noticeable feel in perfomance. By now you will be ready to consider an intercooler and a larger turbo if you need more HP, then you might need a bigger injector.
Walbro 340
009 injectors
adjustable FPR
boost guage
TA49 for stock convertor
TA62 for looser convertor
FM intercooler
Bored 62mm throttlebody
Move TB to pressure side
Headers, Postons are the cheapest
2.5" DP minimum
Race chip of any origin with a solid 26 degrees of timing
87 computer and MAF recommended
K&N
Some sort of scan tool
Slicks or DRs at a minimum
That's about it for not going into the motor but I would bet everything it would take you into the 11s with a good tune.
For starters, see how fast you can go the poor man's way. Dump some 114 octane in the tank, turn the boost to 20psi, get a thrasher race chip, K&N, unbolt the downpipe, run some good tires, and 13s should be no problem.
Edit: Don't buy turbos from PTE. Limit Engineering has been by far the best.
009 injectors
adjustable FPR
boost guage
TA49 for stock convertor
TA62 for looser convertor
FM intercooler
Bored 62mm throttlebody
Move TB to pressure side
Headers, Postons are the cheapest
2.5" DP minimum
Race chip of any origin with a solid 26 degrees of timing
87 computer and MAF recommended
K&N
Some sort of scan tool
Slicks or DRs at a minimum
That's about it for not going into the motor but I would bet everything it would take you into the 11s with a good tune.
For starters, see how fast you can go the poor man's way. Dump some 114 octane in the tank, turn the boost to 20psi, get a thrasher race chip, K&N, unbolt the downpipe, run some good tires, and 13s should be no problem.
Edit: Don't buy turbos from PTE. Limit Engineering has been by far the best.
Thanks
SORRY FOR THE LONG MESSAGE BUT PLEASE READ. Thanks a million. Money isnt really an issue. I have added the gauges just for the looks in car shows. Now, it was mentioned that I need to make sure that it is performing to its highest level before I begin. Should I go ahead and change the ECM over and start reading from there or just use the stock. If I need to change, what is it exactly I need before I change. I can order the ECM and the MAF from Brian Weaver. He has helped me alot with the parts for this car so I trust his equipment. What else will I need to change this over. I messed with it this morning and found that one of my vaccum hoses was not connected to the fuel regulator. Explains the rough idle but still beets the crap out of me it actually ran. I also want to mention that I hate the TV cable. I had the tranny rebuilt about 50 miles ago. The trans shop put a trans pak in it. If no one has this I highly recommend this. I adjusted the cable exactly how it read on here. The problem is if it is hooked up it still gang shifts,second doesnt snap and it doesnt kick-down into passing gear when it is in O-drive. When I disconnect the cable and shift it manually it is like a different car. Second snaps and gives the whiplash effect.Awesome. Thanks again for the info. I will write down the info and the person that provided it to me for future help. If no one minds me pestering you all until I get done with this. Also I would like to mention that there is a GN show in Bristol, TN the weekend of the 26-28. I am from there and will be going if anybody is interested.
SORRY FOR THE LONG MESSAGE BUT PLEASE READ. Thanks a million. Money isnt really an issue. I have added the gauges just for the looks in car shows. Now, it was mentioned that I need to make sure that it is performing to its highest level before I begin. Should I go ahead and change the ECM over and start reading from there or just use the stock. If I need to change, what is it exactly I need before I change. I can order the ECM and the MAF from Brian Weaver. He has helped me alot with the parts for this car so I trust his equipment. What else will I need to change this over. I messed with it this morning and found that one of my vaccum hoses was not connected to the fuel regulator. Explains the rough idle but still beets the crap out of me it actually ran. I also want to mention that I hate the TV cable. I had the tranny rebuilt about 50 miles ago. The trans shop put a trans pak in it. If no one has this I highly recommend this. I adjusted the cable exactly how it read on here. The problem is if it is hooked up it still gang shifts,second doesnt snap and it doesnt kick-down into passing gear when it is in O-drive. When I disconnect the cable and shift it manually it is like a different car. Second snaps and gives the whiplash effect.Awesome. Thanks again for the info. I will write down the info and the person that provided it to me for future help. If no one minds me pestering you all until I get done with this. Also I would like to mention that there is a GN show in Bristol, TN the weekend of the 26-28. I am from there and will be going if anybody is interested.
my advice would be to not be like most car enthusiasts and bolt on 40 parts at once and just have a mess on your hands
good luck finding out whats making your car run like POO.
start with the basic mods, get those working well for your car, then add thee next part.
For the mopst part you hafta update your hot-aired car, so you can use alot of the intercooled regal part.
ya gotta start with a newhotwired, fuel pump and regulator.
Racetronix has a sweet deal on the fuel pump and HW kit.
The stocker fuel pump could barely keep up with a stocker at WOT.
a ECM swap would be a wise choice if you plan on running a In-car diagnostic scanner (turbolink, scanmaster, directscan)
a new ecm also, gives you access to alot of chips that cannot be used on a on a hot-aired car.
a Nice free flowing exhaust and a 2.5 downpipe.
and an adjustable wastegate actuator, so you can turn the boost up !
Start with the basic before you step up to turbos intercoolers and openiong the motor up
good luck finding out whats making your car run like POO.
start with the basic mods, get those working well for your car, then add thee next part.
For the mopst part you hafta update your hot-aired car, so you can use alot of the intercooled regal part.
ya gotta start with a newhotwired, fuel pump and regulator.
Racetronix has a sweet deal on the fuel pump and HW kit.
The stocker fuel pump could barely keep up with a stocker at WOT.
a ECM swap would be a wise choice if you plan on running a In-car diagnostic scanner (turbolink, scanmaster, directscan)
a new ecm also, gives you access to alot of chips that cannot be used on a on a hot-aired car.
a Nice free flowing exhaust and a 2.5 downpipe.
and an adjustable wastegate actuator, so you can turn the boost up !
Start with the basic before you step up to turbos intercoolers and openiong the motor up
Don't disconnect the TV cable! You'll burn the tranny up in no time. It not only controlls shift points but line pressure.
My other advise is to avoid upgrading an upgrade. I wanted low 13s in the beginning and had all the parts to do so. Then I wanted more. I ended up going from a TA49 to a 62 to a 64. I went from a 2.5" DP to a 3". 2,800 stall convertor to a 3,200 stall. Spearco FM IC to a Ford IC. Bluetops to 009s and now I need more. 237 regulator to an adjustable. V8 radiator to a highdensity, and so on. I could've saved so much money just building it once.
Nothing wrong with buying all the parts at once, just don't install them all at once. Do the ones that go together like turbo and injectors.
One last thing, I highly recommend a Max Effort chip to tune whatever combo you choose.
My other advise is to avoid upgrading an upgrade. I wanted low 13s in the beginning and had all the parts to do so. Then I wanted more. I ended up going from a TA49 to a 62 to a 64. I went from a 2.5" DP to a 3". 2,800 stall convertor to a 3,200 stall. Spearco FM IC to a Ford IC. Bluetops to 009s and now I need more. 237 regulator to an adjustable. V8 radiator to a highdensity, and so on. I could've saved so much money just building it once.
Nothing wrong with buying all the parts at once, just don't install them all at once. Do the ones that go together like turbo and injectors.
One last thing, I highly recommend a Max Effort chip to tune whatever combo you choose.
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