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Passenger Header Gasket Replacement Question:

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Who Needs 8

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2004
Messages
562
Ok, I've had this exhaust leak coming from the passenger side of the engine. I thought it was the ATR(might be TH) Downpipe at the joint. So I bought a Lap Band Clamp. I had to cut it a little because of the wastegate, but I tourqued that bad boy down to 70 ft.lbs. When I got it on there, I knew that it wasn't going to leak. Started the engine . . . TICK TICK TICK!!!! :mad: I'm very convinced that wasn't the source of the leak.

(In case you're wondering, I assumed it was the DP because I found some soot on the underside at the joint)

So, I'm guessing there's only two other places where it may be leaking: Headers, DP gasket at the turbo.

After all that, My question is this: On a scale of 1-10 (10 being the hardest, 1 the easiest) how hard is it going to be to replace the left header gasket. I've done this time and time again on different cars, I'm more or less asking so that I can plan out a day or two and maybe even arrange to do this in an Air Conditioned Garage (Highs have been in the 100's).

Second Question: What kind of gaskets do you suggest for Stock Headers?

BTW Here's what I'm working with:
Stock Headers
Precision GT 3255 Turbo
Tile External Wastegate
3" ATR DP (Might be TH)


On a side note: I need an air conditioned garage :D I used to take the car over to my Dad's During the hot months because he's got A/C in his garage, but right now he has filled up his garage while he's been putting his '53 GMC back together (Bone Stock and Original Farm Truck). :D
 
Who Needs 8 said:
Ok, I've had this exhaust leak coming from the passenger side of the engine.

After all that, My question is this: On a scale of 1-10 (10 being the hardest, 1 the easiest) how hard is it going to be to replace the left header gasket. I've done this time and time again on different cars, I'm more or less asking so that I can plan out a day or two and maybe even arrange to do this in an Air Conditioned Garage (Highs have been in the 100's).

*****A 5. Just replacing the header gasket is not super hard on the passenger side. You can unbolt it from the head and sometimes slip it in with some care, but the downpipe, crossover, and turbo bracket might have to be loosened a bit to move it enough. Our cars did not originally come with one btw. I think I used Fel-Pro 1400 Exhaust manifold gaskets if that helps any.

***** Your aggravation factor will go up to a 10 when you probably find out it's NOT leaking at the head, but rather the manifold itself is cracked. Mine cracked in two places, neither was easy to see with the thing on due to the downpipe, turbo, and starter motor on that side.. My manifold had cracks at the junction of the metal heatshield where it was connected to the manifold, on the backside, and at the junction where everything comes together towards the crossover pipe (the log), where the little ribs on the metal are. No way you can fix it on the car, it must be removed. You might be able to get an inspection mirror up there to look for soot marks, or just run a bit of top engine cleaner through the motor and every little crack and leak will start smoking like crazy.

Second Question: What kind of gaskets do you suggest for Stock Headers?

*****Fel Pro 1400 is what I used. On the drivers side, I bought an ATR replacement header and did not use a gasket. I got sick of re-welding the driver side. No problems in years.

BTW Here's what I'm working with:
Stock Headers
Precision GT 3255 Turbo
Tile External Wastegate
3" ATR DP (Might be TH)


On a side note: I need an air conditioned garage :D I used to take the car over to my Dad's During the hot months because he's got A/C in his garage, but right now he has filled up his garage while he's been putting his '53 GMC back together (Bone Stock and Original Farm Truck). :D


*****Well, it feels like 110 degrees here right now with the humidity. It's only like 94 though! It's a bad day to be on a road crew laying asphalt I imagine... I saw a group of guys doing just that a couple of hours ago, and was amazed to see several smoking... Like they aren't gettin' enough tar out of laying the asphalt down on such an insanely hot day!... :)

Billy
Montgomery Village, MD
 
Who Needs 8 said:
Hmmmm . . . well I guess I'm stumped.

What you can do if you suspect the header is to remove them, cut them between the channels and then mount them back with plenty of copper gasket.

Make sure that the surface is straight and clean.

And... if.... these cars are not high tech in mouting.... there have been differences up to over a inch on them, maybe you can use a header gasket on yours?

All depends on the clearance......
 
Who needs 8,

I would say that since you are hearing the lifter like tick, it is probably a cracked header. I haven't heard that tick from leaking flanges. Pull it off and get it welded up. If the headers have been off the heads in the past it is time for header gaskets. The GSCA has some very nice reusable header gaskets but they are pricey.
 
this is what I did. Then again I've had it apart so many times it comes easy. I pulled off the header. Had it welded inside and out and ground flush. Cut the the flange to seperate the primary tubes and use a cork header gasket for a bonneville fwd engine. Mine haven't leaked yet.........

I also used stainless steel grade 8 rounded allen head bolts with red loctite to clear the arp bolts in the heads......

HTH!
 
Got me but it's a fel pro gasket made for a Bonneville! Sure looks like cork to me. I do have an old one I'll try to snap a pic. Could be made of another material, but it looks like a cork gasket........
 
Here's a pic! It doesn't look like a graphite material it has dimples like a cork gasket, however the center is steel. It turns to a burnt brown color after it heats up, but it hasn't leaked. I've chased a high BLM forever with this car only to figure out it was a very slightly warped flange. Even a little will cause havoc........
 

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Who Needs 8]
Is there a link?


Howdy!

Sorry! I didn't realize you asked me this. No, there's not a link, just a phone number, It is 229-244-0577. Here's the catch; You have to call between 08:00 and 12:00 am eastern time Mon thru Fri. and you have to be a member of the GSCA to buy parts but, if you are a member you can get parts at really good prices. Give um a call.
 
trading t/a said:
Here's a pic! It doesn't look like a graphite material it has dimples like a cork gasket, however the center is steel. It turns to a burnt brown color after it heats up, but it hasn't leaked. I've chased a high BLM forever with this car only to figure out it was a very slightly warped flange. Even a little will cause havoc........


those are leakers ...when it blows out mail me and Ill send ya some more (I get them in gasket set's :rolleyes:
 
Maybe it leaks due to the guy installing it :rolleyes:


Haven't had a leak yet. And the amount I drive it yeah if it lasts that long I'll call you, you gonna gimmie a good price ;).


Attention to detail and are lost on some. :D
 
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