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Passing emisions tips?

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turbowrenchhead

Drive like you stole it!
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
854
Will removing the wastegate rod and having no boost benifit passing emissions. It is a running test that they accelerate the car. If there is no boost then the ecm wont dump as much fuel. The car has failed 3 times now and everything is working like it should. Any sugestions?
 
Do you have a cat. conv on??? What are the readings that you are getting when you fail??? You may want to ask Jim Testa on the general tech section...He knows a lot about emissions testing...

What do they tell you after you fail on what might be wrong???
 
It is a 87 that i have been working on. It has a TE44 on it. 30# injectors. It has a high flow cat. The original owner had no O2 with an open loop chip. Fixed that. Tried to pass, it failed the engine light came on. No VSS, the previous owner had it cut, put a new vss in it. Now the ecm is working right. Light stays off. The hydro carbons shoot off the chart everytime the accelerate. I have not been able to get the t-link on it, cause my friends has it. I am just wondering if disconnecting the wastegate would be good or bad.
 
Actually, I'm not too sure about disconnecting the wastegate rod...Not sure it would really do anything other than cause extremely slow spoolup...We don't have emissions testing here...yet :eek:

As I've mentioned, try to get with Jim Testa...He will help you...
 
Not sure on your chip settings, but I used a Thrasher emissions chip in place of my Theasher92 and I passed.

Dannyo
 
I passed with flying colors on an emissions dyno with a TE44 (40# injectors) and JC emission chip but needed the cat (new). I set the FP back to roughly stock (33#s). IMHO, turbo size should make no difference. You should change the O2, oil, plugs, and PCV before the test and hopefully have NO residual race gas in the tank. I was able to pass all but the NOX without a cat.

What chip were you running?

Bob
 
I turned the fuel pressure down (about 34psi) and wasnt too far from passing my first try. Thats with a straight through 3"cat and all the mods below. Had thumbwheel chip set to stock position.

Not really any reason to mess with the boost, just turned it down a little since I turned the FP down (normal procedure).

I took off my cold air casing around my K&N thinking the warmer air might help a little (?).

The second time around I rigged up a stock cat and the car got a quick pass since the readings were so low for a given amount of time (the workers were dissapointed, they couldnt keep reving my engine!).

The only thing I think it really needed was the cat (my Hydrocarbons were the main problem aswell). I had bought a stock cat from Auto Zone (about $65, I think). After the test, of course, I put the hiflow 3" cat back on. The stock one went back in its box and is set aside for future emissions tests.
 
turbowrenchhead:
You stated that the HC shoots off the scale, what are the rest of the readings? Maybe, your engine is running lean and not rich. A lean misfire (not uncommon for TR) will have excessively high HC (fuel not firing) and CO will be on the floor (whatever did fire was used up), O2 content will be high (not enough fuel to fire mixtue) and CO2 will be low.
 
Oh and NOx will be on the floor, because there is not enough heat from the mixture not firing to create NOx.
 
Hey Guys
I am about to buy turbo-link and was wondering....?? Do they supply the information on the numbers and what they should be or do I have to figure it out. I have the 85 ecm and at least know from reading these threads that I will not get as much info as would an 87ecm. Also is it enough info to really do me any good or am I just waisting money having the 85ecm.
 
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