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8AV8

Banned
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
4,986
Is this right?

Brown> pl1
Blue >A12
White >A12
Red >A6
Black >Calibration to led and switch
Yellow> Taped-no connection

I followed instructions for first time use and the led never came on. The switch and led have a good ground.

Any suggestions?
 
You could have the LED wired backwards. I just did this install 2 days ago and my LED did not come on either. But it was due to me not having the ground connected... DOH !!!

But the red wire from the LED needs to be connected to the black wire from the LC1, and the black to ground.

BTW, what is A12 and A6? I know the blue and white go to ground, and they recommend a seperate ground lug from anything else, as it can cause interferance with the signal. The yellow is taped back if you do not have a gauge, as you stated.

Also, the PL turn on is very cool. Connect the laptop to the USB port, fire the SW up, hit F3, then click the Scanmaster button and check the WBo2 box, and immediately it switches to WB from LB... VERY SWEET !!!


Mike
 
?

You could have the LED wired backwards. I just did this install 2 days ago and my LED did not come on either. But it was due to me not having the ground connected... DOH !!!

But the red wire from the LED needs to be connected to the black wire from the LC1, and the black to ground.

BTW, what is A12 and A6? I know the blue and white go to ground, and they recommend a seperate ground lug from anything else, as it can cause interferance with the signal. The yellow is taped back if you do not have a gauge, as you stated.

Also, the PL turn on is very cool. Connect the laptop to the USB port, fire the SW up, hit F3, then click the Scanmaster button and check the WBo2 box, and immediately it switches to WB from LB... VERY SWEET

Mike


The led is polarity sensitve?
 
After all what? I'm in the car business...never had to learn about diodes(until now!)

Can you explain?TIA
 
Diodes only allow current to flow in one direction (neat for all sorts of applications). LED' (ligh emitting diodes) are the same.

The positive side of the diode (red wire) as stated earlier needs to be tied to the "source", in this case the black wire of the LC1.
Black wire on LED to ground.
 
The car is in the shop at my dads and I'm at work. I'll check. Thats probably the deal though. Can you burn a diode by hooking it up backwards? I didn't have power on it very long....maybe 45 seconds total. I knew something was wrong and didn't keep trying.
 
It should be just fine.

What a diode does is allow current flow in one direction. The anode (red wire) must be at a more positive potential than the cathode (black wire). The LED is the same theory, that for it to emit light, it must be wired in thiat manner to even work.

Mike
 
Dave, How does the rest of the wiring look to you? Are these the right pin connections?
 
Dave, How does the rest of the wiring look to you? Are these the right pin connections?

Good, I think. I run something different than an LC1 so I'm not sure how fussy the grounds are for it.

A6 is the main power feed to the ECM (pink/blk) so you can tap it anywhere along that wire.

As for the two grounds, I've been told that the blue wire can go to any good chassis ground, and the white should go to the "sensor ground" which is D10 (blk/wht) black with white tracer.

Yes, the brown wire goes to the PL at I1.

The yellow wire is the NBO2 simulator, so it's generally not used for anything.
 
A6 is the main power feed to the ECM (pink/blk) so you can tap it anywhere along that wire.

As for the two grounds, I've been told that the blue wire can go to any good chassis ground, and the white should go to the "sensor ground" which is D10 (blk/wht) black with white tracer.


The yellow wire is the NBO2 simulator, so it's generally not used for anything.


My Innovative directions said to use a switched power with at least a 5A fuse, do you think it is safe to run it off the power feed to the ECM?

I put a 5A fuse inline to an ignition terminal on the fuse panel, myself...

Just another opinion...

Mike
 
My Innovative directions said to use a switched power with at least a 5A fuse, do you think it is safe to run it off the power feed to the ECM?

I put a 5A fuse inline to an ignition terminal on the fuse panel, myself...

Just another opinion...

Mike

I've never had a lot of trust in those 12v terminals on the fuse block. Any corrosion behind the block and the voltage can be a little unreliable.
The Pink/Blk wire is usually a good safe source of power.
 
Thanks guys...had the led backwards. Free air calibration went fine.

Now...After some digging around I'm still not getting a clear answer on these grounds. I've seen people going to one gnd... and two seperate gnds:confused: . I emailed admin @ Full Throttle Tech this morning and asked this question.

When all else fails I guess I'll follow the instructions:rolleyes: . It just that I read a post where a guy says Bob told him to wire both to A12. If it were anybody but Bob I probably wouldn't have thought twice about it. Lets see what Mike says and I'll post back again with results

Thanks Again!!
 
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