please help hard brake pedal

[sasi2010]

It took only a few minutes to change out the accumulator, and normal braking operation has been restored (previously, it was stopping like a Toyota).

The car has only 32,000 miles on it, so I should be okay for a while.

I also had to replace the battery (the third one in 23 years), the hood struts, the front tires (the original rubber on this car wore like a pencil eraser) and recharge the A/C.

okay..okay..
are you bought this car from second sale?

 

[meanchicken]

Mine just did this today.

Brake light lit up while I was driving...since I had read about this before, I knew what was next....so I created distance and kept my speed down....also dropped the tranny down to D and kept my left foot on the E-brake.

I got two more good stops out of it, and then stepping on the peddle became like stepping on a brick.

I could get the car to stop, but it took a lot of pushing. Nursed it a few more miles to work, and then nursed it home at the end of the day.

I have not isolated the bad part yet, but I did the accumulator ball a couple years ago....bought one (non-OEM) off of E-bay from a guy who lives near my house and has a stash.

My PM motor does not even turn on so I'm suspecting either a bad motor or a bad Pressure switch.

 

[1quick6]

Are you blowing the PM fuse often since this happened? I assume you checked the fuse.

 

[meanchicken]

Are you blowing the PM fuse often since this happened? I assume you checked the fuse.

Uh...yeah....of course.... I...checked...the fuse?:redface:

Guess I better get under the dash and look at that first, eh...?
I hope it's that simple, but at 140K miles....me thinks this power master is probably done.

 

[meanchicken]

Popped the fuse out and it's definitely a gonner.

I didn't have any new ones laying around, so I'll pick up some more 30A fuses tonight on the way home.

Hopefully its just the fuse was weak (looked like it had been in there for 23 years) and nothing bad caused it to pop.

 

[meanchicken]

Replacing the fuse didn't help.
As soon as the ign is turned on, the new fuse blows.

Powermaster time...?
...or could it still be the switch?

 

[Little6pack]

Go Vacum.. Bet you can find a Monte SS in the J yard.. Get the whole setup including the brake pedal. You will be back on the road in no time.

 

[meanchicken]

Go Vacum.. Bet you can find a Monte SS in the J yard.. Get the whole setup including the brake pedal. You will be back on the road in no time.

Nah....True or False, I've heard that vacuum set ups limit your brake boost holding capability at the line...

If I go away from a Powermaster, I'll go hydro boost.

But I'm leaning towards staying with the Powermaster cuz I like things under the hood to be as stock appearing as possible.

 

[1quick6]

Test the switch. All of the terminals should have continuity with each other. I'm suspecting the windings in the motor are wet with brake fluid, though.

As far as vac vs. hydro, its not that vac CAN'T hold brakes at the line. Plenty of people are perfectly fine with vacuum for racing as long as the system is otherwise healthy. I like hydro for the superior clamping force and pedal feel. Most people who condemn vacuum either didn't do the conversion right or the other components of the braking system are junk.

I like good working brakes, period. I just prefer hydro. Properly maintained PM, vac and hydro all work well to stop the vehicle.

 

[meanchicken]

Test the switch. All of the terminals should have continuity with each other.

Cool!
Does a good fuse need to be in place or will the measurement work any way?

 

[Little6pack]

Nah....True or False, I've heard that vacuum set ups limit your brake boost holding capability at the line...

If I go away from a Powermaster, I'll go hydro boost.

But I'm leaning towards staying with the Powermaster cuz I like things under the hood to be as stock appearing as possible.

They won't look stock when you crash!

I was repling to the orignal poster about getting his car up and running quick for his cruise. He could always go back to powermaster once his parts arrive.

 

[meanchicken]

Test the switch. All of the terminals should have continuity with each other. I'm suspecting the windings in the motor are wet with brake fluid, though.

As far as vac vs. hydro, its not that vac CAN'T hold brakes at the line. Plenty of people are perfectly fine with vacuum for racing as long as the system is otherwise healthy. I like hydro for the superior clamping force and pedal feel. Most people who condemn vacuum either didn't do the conversion right or the other components of the braking system are junk.

I like good working brakes, period. I just prefer hydro. Properly maintained PM, vac and hydro all work well to stop the vehicle.

Switch is 0 ohms between all pins,

They won't look stock when you crash!

I was repling to the orignal poster about getting his car up and running quick for his cruise. He could always go back to powermaster once his parts arrive.

Ah...sorry....I have kind of hijacked this thread (sorry rp1329...bad form on my part). Just didn't see any sense in starting a new thread on the same subject.

By the way....just as likely to crash when a vacuum system fails or when you lose an accessory belt or power steering line (hydroboost) as you are if the Powermaster quits.
This one lasted 140K miles, so they can't be all that bad.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Meanchicken I read somewhere a while ago when the motor on the PM gets flooded from brake fluid when the seals go bad, it pops the fuse. Might be your case..?

 

[1quick6]

Meanchicken , it sounds like your switch is fine if you see 0 ohms. Like I said earlier, your motor windings are likely wet. That'll pop your fuse in an instant.

Looks like you have a decision to make. I don't know anyone who repairs just the motor on a PM but that's not to say it is impossible. A new PM system will be $485 from Advance Auto after discounts. Hydro is right at $315 from Advance. Vac is around $225 rebuilt/used or $395 new.