pop stutter backfire etc

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wbzautocustomiz

Want my GN to go 11's one day
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
468
Scanmaster tps wont get past 2.5 before breakup starts, bl's are 134 at idle wot 119 what does this mean for the bl's on scanmaster?
 
BLM's seem pretty normal.

With no more info than you've given, it sounds like your ignition module/coil pack has gone bad.

When a MAF goes bad, it usually wont like ANY throttle application.

When a coil pack/module goes bad things don't start going haywire until you're into boost.
 
been acting up for years cant get it right

sorry, I have already been thru the "basics" gnttype troubleshooting and have swapped with known working ign module and coil even did type II swap, repaired/relocated grounds, hoses tight, no exhaust leaks, new ecm, new TTchip, New 42's, new FP, adj FPR, MAF, cam and crank sensors set correctly, new wires and plugs different gapping, voltage good, balance bolt tight, etc. , etc..... may have left some stuff out, Now there is the tps hasent been changed but I do have the caspers tps tec installed and set to spec key on .42/wot4.68, FP good rises with boost when I can get it to go. A while back I tried the start car unplug cam sensor and drive car shut off almost immediatly and did not go to "batch" mode also as car acts up whether you mash the pedal or not as it gets up to when its about to top of gear it will start bucking and popping if I let off and fan the pedal a little it may clear up and the check engine light flashes/flickers as problem occurs but car drives fine other than that. This has been killing me since 2008 it seems that every time I think "I got IT" back to the bull. My concern is the batch mode thing is something screwed up with that. Car ran great than one day kaput!!!! And all the upgrades started "well if that dont fix it I will need to have done this" was done trying to get it right and I have posted a lot on the issue with car and alot of members have helped so any help is thankful
 
First get rid of the tps tech.

Not going into batch fire could be a module or ecm issue. The flickering ce light sounds like a chip issue but that tps tech may also have something to do with that so get that out the mix.

Post back with your results. We'll do our best to get you figured out.

RL
 
I will try that but, i added the tps tec as aprt of the troubleshoot as far as chip I upgrade chip trying to fix car and does it with old and new chip
 
We have to get the flicker figured out. The tps tech is not needed. So lets get it out and see what happens.
 
I will remove tps tec and report back with results and yes CE light flickered before tps tec
 
Stupid question but I have to ask. Are you disconnecting the orange wire by the battery when changing chips?
 
Yes I have disconnected org wire and even went as far as diconnecting pos and neg of batt also, and no not a stupid question to me I have been trying so hard to get car right and I do believe that when I find it it will be something "stupid" Thanks
 
Roger that. I had to ask. The chip can be damaged if pulled with without removing power.
 
As you are finding out these cars can be very frustrating indeed. You stated that you set the Cam and Crank Sensors. My strong recommendation is that you replace the crank sensor. I have had similar problems and through the process of elimination found the problem to be the crank sensor. Car would start normally but at some early point in time it would begin to buck and pop. Crank sensors are available at most parts stores for about $45.00. Don't know how to test them but have 2 that failed.
 
As you are finding out these cars can be very frustrating indeed. You stated that you set the Cam and Crank Sensors. My strong recommendation is that you replace the crank sensor. I have had similar problems and through the process of elimination found the problem to be the crank sensor. Car would start normally but at some early point in time it would begin to buck and pop. Crank sensors are available at most parts stores for about $45.00. Don't know how to test them but have 2 that failed.

I would agree but the flickering ce light points at chip or ecm.
 
Yes new crank sensor and bracket set with feeler gauge and 2 liter plastic material, new cam sensor set with casper cam tool and identical problem before and after with old and new. The flickering CE light I do believie has the answer to my trouble and fyi with all 3 tt chips I have they all cycle thru tt's procedure key on few quick flashes etc so chips seem ok I have 3 ecms also all do the same, but what's missing when I unplug cam sensor while running and car shuts off not good right? Is there something missing between ecm and cam sensor? Just fishing I'm hoping can find problem. Thanks
 
Yes new crank sensor and bracket set with feeler gauge and 2 liter plastic material, new cam sensor set with casper cam tool and identical problem before and after with old and new. The flickering CE light I do believie has the answer to my trouble and fyi with all 3 tt chips I have they all cycle thru tt's procedure key on few quick flashes etc so chips seem ok I have 3 ecms also all do the same, but what's missing when I unplug cam sensor while running and car shuts off not good right? Is there something missing between ecm and cam sensor? Just fishing I'm hoping can find problem. Thanks

Something is missing, it should run in batchfire.

The crank and cam sensor both go back to the C3I module under the coil pack. From there the module has 5 wires that go back to the ecm. EST, Bypass, Ref Hi, Ref Low and cam signal. Here is the ecm pinout Scroll down the page and you will see the module connections.

What coilpak and module are on the car now?
 
Not sure but I used from my buddy who has a TR and we swapped mine for his and vice/versa mine/his worked on his car but both of ours did the same thing on my car. I agree that something is not right from the ecm to cam, crank sensors, etc...I do have the pinout info and have verified all wires a couple of times I could be missing something though I will have at it ASAP.
 
update

removed tps tec same outcome, also if cam sensor unplugged while car running idles fine, but as soon as car drives "pop sputter backfire" then it shuts off plug cam sensor back in fire up, so no batch mode? so ran a set of wires from ign module to ecm for cam, ref hi ref lo etc still all the same, now how about this when I set TPS it wouldnt let me set at .42 easily it kept changing values with the slightest wiggle maybe bad TPS? can a bad TPS make a TR have these symptoms ?as soon as you get up on it and right when it should bust loose "vroom, pop, stutter, backfire" let off gas rides good
 
Yeah it sure can, I had a bad tps pigtail connection to the tps and had major issues... also how are the fuseible links by the starter? Once I had one deteriorated and touching under power and very shortly shorting causing the ecm to tweak out.

Dan
 
Also high resistance in the 12v feed to the ign module would cause low voltage under high load and a missing/popping.
 
I do have the hotwire done for ign module so hopefully enough voltage to module, had starter completly off and all looked ok nothing shorting under torque etc, my TPS pigtail clip is broken but I have a wire tie securing tight I think I will go ahead and put a new TPS sensor/pigtail on and see what it does Im this far in on parts another $30-50 aint gonna matter now.
 
more update and another holiday day consumed by my TR

Installed a new TPS and pigtail when setting tps i got the.42 key on engine off but WOT only 3.52 key on engine off even with pedal and by hand under hood and the tps blade is fully opening either way. Now question is; can/if I dont have at least 4.5v tps on scantoll @ WOT will car break up and pop,etc? And is this my problem not enough volts from TPS? next question why not enough volts?
 
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