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GNBeswick

It's just a V6 Regal....
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
649
I'm curious to get some opinions on head porting. Is there a good advantage to having the intake and exhaust ports ported to the valve seat? Is it worth the increase in power and performance, or is porting not really worth it unless you go all out and get it completely ported?
Any suggestions for places that port heads? I'm looking to get mine ported...but I'm on a budget....and my goals are really only 12s....MAYBE high 11s. Mainly a street car.
 
Yes there is. Be sure to radius the entry and exit into the valve bowl. remove sharp edges. Be sure to leave a .100" 60* cut on the exhaust and .125" on the 60* cut on the intake. Have a good three angle valve job done, and then CAREFULLY blend the valve bowl just to the 60* cut dimension. Smooth out and widen the short side radius, and narrow the valve guides. You can completely remove the guide in the exhaust port. Put a radius on the back side of the intake guide on the biased side of the port. The biased side is the side closest to the head bolt. After the port work, have the seats "dusted" agian to clean up where you nicked them. Be CAREFUL!!! After grinding for hours, you will soon understand why porting costs so much. Be SURE to wear eye protection, dust mask, hearing protection, and have a shop vac running the whole time to remove the shavings/dust. Buy a good grinder and quality carbide burrs (double cut). Go for it! Here a couple of picks of the heads on my car. Ask around in your area for some pointers. It isn't easy doing a good job, but if you read up on it, you can pick up some real good info on the 'net. speedtalk.com is a good place to read and read and read.
 

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I'm curious to get some opinions on head porting. Is there a good advantage to having the intake and exhaust ports ported to the valve seat? Is it worth the increase in power and performance, or is porting not really worth it unless you go all out and get it completely ported?
Any suggestions for places that port heads? I'm looking to get mine ported...but I'm on a budget....and my goals are really only 12s....MAYBE high 11s. Mainly a street car.

you dont need ported heads to go 12's, you can get into the 11's with stock heads so i've heard.
 
Summit Racing has a good porting kit (Porting and Polishing Kits - summitracing.com) that includes everything but the die grinder and double cut burrs. It contains a detailed instruction sheet to guide you through the process. More/smoother/faster airflow=horsepower in any internal combustion engine. If you were to "pocket port"(clean up the area and radius just under the valve seats), gasket match the intake and exhaust ports, and polish the combustion chamber and exhaust runners: you'd reap more benefit from any other mods added later. It's all about breathing better. 11's and 12's are easy without, but easier with a little headwork. Full porting isn't really needed for your goals. Just be VERY careful not to nick those seats. If you're not a very patient and/or meticulous person: Forget about it!! Get sloppy and you'll cost yourself a head in a heartbeat. Make sure any burrs you buy are made somewhere other than china or taiwan.
 
Summit Racing has a good porting kit (Porting and Polishing Kits - summitracing.com) that includes everything but the die grinder and double cut burrs. It contains a detailed instruction sheet to guide you through the process. More/smoother/faster airflow=horsepower in any internal combustion engine. If you were to "pocket port"(clean up the area and radius just under the valve seats), gasket match the intake and exhaust ports, and polish the combustion chamber and exhaust runners: you'd reap more benefit from any other mods added later. It's all about breathing better. 11's and 12's are easy without, but easier with a little headwork. Full porting isn't really needed for your goals. Just be VERY careful not to nick those seats. If you're not a very patient and/or meticulous person: Forget about it!! Get sloppy and you'll cost yourself a head in a heartbeat. Make sure any burrs you buy are made somewhere other than china or taiwan.[/QUOTE

Has anyone Purchased a Porting Kit from Summit witch Kit did you Purchase?

I am looking for a good Quality kit that has everything I need to do a Complete Port Job on a set of V6 heads.
 
I'm curious to get some opinions on head porting. Is there a good advantage to having the intake and exhaust ports ported to the valve seat? Is it worth the increase in power and performance, or is porting not really worth it unless you go all out and get it completely ported?
Any suggestions for places that port heads? I'm looking to get mine ported...but I'm on a budget....and my goals are really only 12s....MAYBE high 11s. Mainly a street car.

There are advantages to having the heads and intake ported, correctly. The air will flow more efficiently and maintain its velocity. Is it needed for a TR to run in the 11's or slower... No.


K.
 
Has anyone Purchased a Porting Kit from Summit witch Kit did you Purchase?

I am looking for a good Quality kit that has everything I need to do a Complete Port Job on a set of V6 heads.

If you really want to do the right thing, start with reading up on head porting. David Vizards book will hep get you started. It gives you alot of theoris on air flow. How to Build & Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Cylinder Heads by David Vizard Yes it is about Chevy heads, but there is alot of good info in there.
Porting tools can get real expensive. The Summit "kit" is too limited to do a good job. You also NEED 6" shank double cut carbide burrs like these:Summit SUM-900640 - Summit 3-Piece Ferrous Deburr Kits - summitracing.com If you do aluminum, like the intake manifold, you will ned this style: Summit SUM-900630 - Summit 3-Piece Non-Ferrous Deburr Kits - summitracing.com I also really like the Makita electric die grinder. It is affordable, and lasts a fair amount of time. Makita GE0600 1/4" Die Grinder Sometimes they are crappy right out of the box, though. Use a dimmer switch for a light and wire it in so you can turn the speed up and down. A router controller works the best, but a dimmer switch works fine. Wear a dust mask, and a face shield. Use a shop vac running the WHOLE time to suck the grindage away, and reduce the dust. It is a VERY dirty job, and VERY time consuming. Your hands will be numb for a week after spending 8 hours on ONE head (you have two, remember?:eek: ) I rough in the valve bowls/ ports first, then cut the seats, then finish the bowl to seat work. The smoothness of the port is really insignificant to flow. If the roughness is less than .005" deep, it will have virtually ZERO effect on total flow. The sanding cones are a great way to find high and low spots in the ports. If you run alky, there "might" be some gain in leaving the intake ports a little rough. Spend hours and hours reading up on how good head porters do things on speedtalk.com. Darrin Morgan (Prostock head porter) gives LOTS of advice. BUT.........reading about it and performing it, are two COMPLETELY different deals. It takes many many years porting to get a handle on it. Just opening up/blending the valve bowls in a Buick V6 will net you about 65-70% of total porting gains available. After your first set, you will understand why it costs so much for a good set of heads. And, you will probably NEVER want to do another set as long as you live.:D You have to look at it like art work. Creating a master piece.:smile:
 
If you really want to do the right thing, start with reading up on head porting. David Vizards book will hep get you started. It gives you alot of theoris on air flow. How to Build & Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Cylinder Heads by David Vizard Yes it is about Chevy heads, but there is alot of good info in there.
Porting tools can get real expensive. The Summit "kit" is too limited to do a good job. You also NEED 6" shank double cut carbide burrs like these:Summit SUM-900640 - Summit 3-Piece Ferrous Deburr Kits - summitracing.com If you do aluminum, like the intake manifold, you will ned this style: Summit SUM-900630 - Summit 3-Piece Non-Ferrous Deburr Kits - summitracing.com I also really like the Makita electric die grinder. It is affordable, and lasts a fair amount of time. Makita GE0600 1/4" Die Grinder Sometimes they are crappy right out of the box, though. Use a dimmer switch for a light and wire it in so you can turn the speed up and down. A router controller works the best, but a dimmer switch works fine. Wear a dust mask, and a face shield. Use a shop vac running the WHOLE time to suck the grindage away, and reduce the dust. It is a VERY dirty job, and VERY time consuming. Your hands will be numb for a week after spending 8 hours on ONE head (you have two, remember?:eek: ) I rough in the valve bowls/ ports first, then cut the seats, then finish the bowl to seat work. The smoothness of the port is really insignificant to flow. If the roughness is less than .005" deep, it will have virtually ZERO effect on total flow. The sanding cones are a great way to find high and low spots in the ports. If you run alky, there "might" be some gain in leaving the intake ports a little rough. Spend hours and hours reading up on how good head porters do things on speedtalk.com. Darrin Morgan (Prostock head porter) gives LOTS of advice. BUT.........reading about it and performing it, are two COMPLETELY different deals. It takes many many years porting to get a handle on it. Just opening up/blending the valve bowls in a Buick V6 will net you about 65-70% of total porting gains available. After your first set, you will understand why it costs so much for a good set of heads. And, you will probably NEVER want to do another set as long as you live.:D You have to look at it like art work. Creating a master piece.:smile:

Did you use these items to port your heads? Did you Flow them.
I was going have mine Bowl houged first on a Serdi Machine First then start Porting
My Car runs 11.90s now I hoping Porting the heads and Intake get me to 11.50s or better
 
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