Postal's old build up

[postal]

Details of the run:
60' 1.698
1/8 7.23
MPH 97.1
1/4 11.30
MPH 118.6

Postal
EMPTY WEIGHT: 3565
BLOCK: stock
HEADS: stock upported
TRANSMISSION: Jimmy's level 10
TORQUE CONVERTER: art carr 16930 from cottons
DIFFERENTIAL: stock
INTERCOOLER: BGC stretch (w/o the scoop)
THROTTLE BODY: stock
RJC POWER PLATE: yes
INJECTORS: MSD 50's
THERMOSTAT: 160
TURBOCHARGER: T63E
VALVE SPRINGS: comp 980's
MAF: LS1
DOWN PIPE: ATR
EXHAUST: full length straight pipe
FUEL PUMP: walbro 340
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR: accufab
FUEL PRESSURE: 38 line off
ALCHOHOL INJECTION: yes but wasnt spraying
PROPAIN INJECTION: no
NITROUS: no
AIR FILTER AND AIR INTAKE: K&N cone, ATR maf pipe
TIRE DESIGN, SIZE & AIR PRESSURE: MT ET drags 15 psi
AIR BAG(s): no
SCAN TOOL: scanmaster 2.0
FUEL: Torco 118
CHIP: modern muscle car extender
CHIP TIMING: 22
KNOCK RETARD: o
OXYGEN SENSOR VOLTAGE: 760
TRACK ELEVATION: around a 1000 i think
TEMPERATURE: 70
PEAK BOOST: 27
BOOST AT LAUNCH: 5
MILES ON THE CAR/ENGINE: 104k

Old set up was never really maxed out. I ran 11.30 my 3rd full pass down a track with the slicks on. Got to love extender chips you can tune a car out pretty decent in very little time!

Things I liked about my old set up:
1. extender chip , T-plus, and a scanmaster. In the hands of the average joe the bang for the buck and ease of use cant be touched.
2. SMC alky kit. I ran race fuel at the track but an alky or propane injected car is the way to go on the street. They let you turn up the boost which lets you get your $$'s worth out of those other speed parts. I ran 11.67 with 23 psi on this old set up. I could easily run 23 psi with pump gas and alky.
3. T63E turbo. Small shaft turbos with big wheels dont hold up very good. When I bought my 63 it was the smallest big shaft turbo you could get and probably still is. Big shaft turbo should live a long time with relatively small wheels.
4. 28x9 MT ET drags. These slicks are great for more than one reason. a) they are really only 27.1" tall so your not trying to pull a tire thats too tall. b) they will mount on easy to find 7 & 8 inch rims. c) They fit very nicely and you dont have to worry about any rubbing d) they are meaty enough to look like your serious e) they require very little burn out to get them ready f) they will hook hard enough to pull atleast a 1.46 sec 60' and yank the front wheels, atleast the drivers side .
5. over all the old set up was pretty much just bolt it on stuff and there where very little issues. It was a solid low 11 second real street car.

That said this is what I didnt like about it:
1. I always had Idle probs with it. The 50's, the chip, the IAC not sure what but the damn thing would idle fine one day and the next it wouldn't.
2. Pot hole Illinois, a TTA, and a stretch IC just dont mix! I couldn't even run the scoop with this sucker and that hurt me at the track. My up pipe would be roasting hot after a pass. The IC would heat soak from not having that scoop to duct the cooling air across it. If you got a GN nab a used stretch if you see one. I got mine for $400 shipped. In a GN with ground clearance for the IC and its scoop they are hard to beat.
3. The no muffler full length exhaust that was on my car when I got it. It sounded good at idle or floored but had horrible drone at highway speeds.

The thing I'm undecided on:
My art carr 9" convertor has me second guessing if it was the right choice or not. I like it on the street and the track with one exception. I never mph in the quarter that great for my ET's. I do how ever mph pretty stout in the 1/8th. I hit over drive about half way between the 1/8th mile and the end of the track. I hit OD around 108 to 110 mph. I just dot have enough motor to excellerate the car hard in OD.

Hope my info can help some body out. I'm not sure whats needed or whats not to run what I did. To me it seamed like my old set up was pretty much a matched combo. Having a matched combo and a decent state of tune are probably the two most important things. The only part about a matched combo that raises issues is the "buy once" senerio. Some times you want to buy the "bigger" part the first time. Buying new and selling used at a loss gets old in a hurry! There are a few parts that will work good on both mild build ups and hot ones: slicks or drag radials, good exhaust system, hot wired fuel pump, scan tool, adj regualtor, k&n air filter and air bag(s) to name a few.

HTH: Jason a.k.a the long post king!

 

[Lee_Burough]

Thanks for clearing that up Jason....

All the stock location stretches are pretty much the same size. I tried a Bowling Green Customs stretch and it absolutely did not work. It hit every on every damn bump and just hitting the brakes a little to hard caused it to scrape.

I went with a ATR stock location liquid. I modified it and when it was all said and done it worked awesome. I don't understand why more TTA guys don't try liquid IC's. I know there is a BIG misconception out there that liquids need to run water tanks and have ice in them. The ATR unit does not come with a tank at all. It comes with the IC, a pump, and a heat exchanger which is basically a huge tranny cooler. The pump just circulates the water from the HX to the IC and back into the HX. When you run a liquid set up like this you dont get the really low inlet temps. What you do get is inlet temps comparable to a large air to air unit but in a much smaller package that fits in the stock location with no ground clearance issues.

Garrett has a new line of cores out. Thier largest liquid core is less than half the size of a stock TTA core but has a NOMINAL (not maximum, but this is where it works good at rating) of 1000 hp! Half the size of a stocker and good for 1000 hp, thats one hell of a statement. Water can absorb alot more heat energy than air and it will absorb it at a much faster rate. Those two things add up to a good IC thats is extremely small compared to an air/air unit.

When you consider the space restraints of the TTA and the lack of a good off the shelf air/air IC for them the ATR set up seams to be a no brainer. The big problem with the ATR unit was the price of $1800. I bought mine for $1200 used off a guy who purchased a car with one installed and some misinformed buddies told him he should sell it and get an air/air unit. Every now and then you see one come up for sale and I seen one earlier this year that a guy had up for around $850. That was alot cheaper than any others I've seen for sale.

HTH: Jason

 

[j13smiley]

thanks for the info! i'm debating.... heads and more tuing for my '98.... or buying tuning tools for the '89 and adding alchy.... i do'nt want to do both cars at once

 

[Razor]

thanks for the info! i'm debating.... heads and more tuing for my '98.... or buying tuning tools for the '89 and adding alchy.... i do'nt want to do both cars at once

The TTA is cheaper to mod. And will be way faster $ per $ spent.

 

[NEARING]

thanks for the info! i'm debating.... heads and more tuing for my '98.... or buying tuning tools for the '89 and adding alchy.... i do'nt want to do both cars at once

Go with the 89 T/A. Turn way more heads and run better for the same cash.

Haven't seen one at the track in 10 years. :frown:

 

[j13smiley]

check my sig- my '98 is already modded heads and suspension parts are still on my list... but my '89 is still stock and it would be so easy to do alchy have that big power boost