Powermaster clicking??
- Thread starter im4darush
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If you motor is clicking and not actually running, your acc has blown the diaphragm.
The pump is dead-headding.
The light is coming on because of the low pressure that occurs when you release the pressure into the rest of the system (press the pedal). The switch turns on the pump because of the low pressure and it builds to turn off pressure in just a moment because the diaphragm is blown. You just hear a click from the motor because it turns on and off so fast.
Replace the Accumulator.
Be sure to cycle the new accumulator when you install it.
See my sig for proper procedures.
The pump is dead-headding.
The light is coming on because of the low pressure that occurs when you release the pressure into the rest of the system (press the pedal). The switch turns on the pump because of the low pressure and it builds to turn off pressure in just a moment because the diaphragm is blown. You just hear a click from the motor because it turns on and off so fast.
Replace the Accumulator.
Be sure to cycle the new accumulator when you install it.
See my sig for proper procedures.
Well, no more clicking. Now the light is on all the time, pedal is hard as a rock, and there is brake fluid everywhere around the powermaster unit. All this while I was waiting for the new accumulator to come in. Somehow I have a feeling its more than just the accumulator. Brake fluid everywhere. .....something leaking real bad.
Please don't tell me you're driving it??!! 
If you are, you need to stop before you run into a stationary object...like a McDonalds.
It sounds like you have blown a seal somewhere while the pump was deadheadding. I hope that isn't the case. Don't allow the motor to run for more than 20 seconds at any given time. It can self destruct/meltdown.
Clean up the mess, check the oring on the switch for cracks, check the pressure hose from the pump to the cylinder for cracks, splits, any signs of corrosion that may cause a rupture and replace the acc ball.
If all checks out fine, see if you can cycle the new acc without disaster.
I don't think I have heard of this type of problem, but I will do my best to help.
If you are, you need to stop before you run into a stationary object...like a McDonalds.
It sounds like you have blown a seal somewhere while the pump was deadheadding. I hope that isn't the case. Don't allow the motor to run for more than 20 seconds at any given time. It can self destruct/meltdown.
Clean up the mess, check the oring on the switch for cracks, check the pressure hose from the pump to the cylinder for cracks, splits, any signs of corrosion that may cause a rupture and replace the acc ball.
If all checks out fine, see if you can cycle the new acc without disaster.
I don't think I have heard of this type of problem, but I will do my best to help.
No, not driving the car. Drove it home as soon as the BAD symptoms began. I have an acc ball on order, but am wondering if I should just bite the bullet and get a reman PM unit. Will turn out to be more expensive if I have to replace components one by one.
Good to hear you aren't driving it.
If you decide to get a complete reman, that's you choice.
It's the easiest fix. Still won't hurt to investigate if you want to.
Keep the acc ball regardless...handy to have for a spare.
You are correct on parts vs a complete unit.
Kirbans deal is pretty good, and he gives you $75 for your old one.
(Dennis should give me a commission for this....)
Investigation = learning so I will try that first. Here is what I found...
When I turn the key 'ON' the pump runs and does not stop. I turned it off after about 10-15 seconds. Then went to look at the unit and found that the fluid is coming out of the body of the switch. Not around the threads, but from the actual switch. It was bubbling out at the base of the switch.
When I turn the key 'ON' the pump runs and does not stop. I turned it off after about 10-15 seconds. Then went to look at the unit and found that the fluid is coming out of the body of the switch. Not around the threads, but from the actual switch. It was bubbling out at the base of the switch.
There you go. Switch sprung a leak.
Ok. Now you have a bad acc but a replacement on the way. You know your switch is bad. Not exactly sure what the going rate is on them right now but I think its around $150 (guessing). You can't have my spare, so it's time to choose. Switch or entire P/M.
Here's an idea. If you have a close friend that can loan you a known good switch for testing, you can run a leak test to find out what shape the internals are in. If they are good, get a switch and get er done. If not, got a complete unit.
POWERBRAKEBOB
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Hydroboost Conversion
Another Possibilty Is The Seal Between The Pump And The 12v Windings Is Leaking Into The Motor, Shorting It Out. This Is Very Common. I Do Have Some New Motors Available. The Next Problem Is Then The Switch And Accumulator. This Is Why I Prefer The Hydroboost Conversion. It Has Replaceable Master Cyl, And No 12v Involved. They Deliver Up To 2000psi To The Calipers At Idle P/s Pump Speed.
Another Possibilty Is The Seal Between The Pump And The 12v Windings Is Leaking Into The Motor, Shorting It Out. This Is Very Common. I Do Have Some New Motors Available. The Next Problem Is Then The Switch And Accumulator. This Is Why I Prefer The Hydroboost Conversion. It Has Replaceable Master Cyl, And No 12v Involved. They Deliver Up To 2000psi To The Calipers At Idle P/s Pump Speed.
Interesting theory but not applicable in this case. The OP is not saying anything about blowing fuses. Which would be happening if the motor was shorting out.
Rush,
The P/M doesn't like to sit. It likes to be used. I think you have figured that out already. :biggrin:
Strange as it may sound, I found an old pressure switch this weekend when I got into my old parts. I thought it was long gone. If you are interested, I can test it for proper operation and you are welcome to buy it if it works. PM me and we can work out the details.
If you are going with a fresh unit, then I'll keep it for another day or future diagnostics.
Z
No blowing fuses. Thanks for the switch offer, but I already ordered a complete P/M from Kirban. I know for a fact that this thing has been sitting for a very long time and did not want to cut corners when it comes to brakes. I will be driving the car on a regular basis and need the system to be in good condition. In terms of a conversion.....the car is a low mile original, and I want to keep it that way.
I am in the process of installing the new p/m and have a question. I know I have to bleed the acc and then bench bleed the power master. My question is.....if the powermaster is new and has no fluid in it, what is the right procedure to bleed the accumulator? Do I just fill the p/s of the bowl and pump?
