Priming Engine / Cam Sensor Questions

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wiseman

Active Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
Messages
594
Recently I put a new oil pump pickup , oil cooler lines, RJC Biggie Adapter and new mechanical oil pressure gauge. I got everything put back together and was spinning the engine over (with orange computer wire disconnected) and noticed there was absolutely NO oil pressure. I was told that when I removed the oil pickup, I may have lost oil priming.
So, I am going to prime the engine using a priming tool which requires removing the cam sensor assembly and . I have already removed the cam sensor (late last night) but haven't yet done anything else yet.

My question is, Was I supposed to set the #1 cylinder to TDC before the cam sensor assembly was removed or does it matter?

I also have the Casper's Camset Tool 102075 to set the cam sensor.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=653

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
the priming tool does not rotate the cam. It spends the oil pump shaft down below the cam.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Oh ok. So, if i make a note of the orientation of the slot on the oil pump shaft (that the cam shaft gear attaches to) and i reposition it the same way after using the priming tool, I can just slide the cam sensor shaft gear back in and the window should be in the exact orientation that it was before I pulled it out, right?





Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
No it could be 180* out. Use that Casper's tool and you should be golden.:cool:
 
Yes, I was planning to use the Casper tool last.

I guess, I may not be explaining it right. The cam assembly consists of 2 parts, the black round plastic piece (the sensor) , and the shaft (with the gear).

Option 1: Since my car was running perfectly before I took the cam sensor assembly with shaft out to prime. With the entire cam assembly and shaft removed,....... should I prime it using the tool, remove the tool, then put my cam sensor shaft in and orient the window and/or oil pump slot back into the same position they were in initially when i took the cap sensor off. Now, With cam sensor "shaft" back installed , rotate piston 1 to 25* ATDC. Lastly, put the cam sensor black cap on and use the casper tool to set the cap to 25* ATDC......the reason I ask about option 1 is because since earlier I was told the prime tool doesn't rotate the cam or crank, and nothing moves except the oil pump...... my shaft should go back in place in the exact position as ling as the oil shaft slot is correctly positioned. Then, I will just need to set the 25*ATDC for the cap. Am I thinking about this, right?

Or......


Option 2: after it is primed (no cam sensor assembly Installed), find 25* ADTC, per the vortex buicks link above, then reinstall the cam sensor shaft and gear, then the cam sensor black cap, then use the Casper s cam sensor tool

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Last edited:
Ok, option 2 it is. I remember a couple years back when I had to remove the cam shaft, I had the time of my life getting it back in. I was hoping not to go through those same troubles. I still have the instructions for the camset, but no where does it tell how to procedure if you have removed the shaft completely. That's what I was asking so many questions. I didn't want to make matters worse than what they are.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Sometimes it is difficult to get the pump shaft lined up. I will install the cam sensor until it engages the cam gear then rotate the engine with the starter while pushing down on the cam sensor until it drops in all the way. You will then have to rotate the crank back to 25*ATDC to set the cam sensor. I modified a timing light that triggers off of the cam sensor so I can set the cam sensor with the engine running.
 
I think I am set now. I just didn't think that I was supposed to turn the engine with the cam drive shaft removed from the car.

Sounds like a fancy trick that you have rigged up with that light.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
No biggie, you gonna have to turn the motor over to find tdc on the compression stroke. From there set it to the atdc mark.
 
TurboBuRick said:
You sure the oil pump is primed??
Click to expand...

The oil pumped isn't priming. I have 0 pressure since I changed the oil cooler lines, and rjc biggie filter adapter, and the oil pickup. I had it plenty oil pressure previously....so that's the only thing it could be.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
It can be a pain in the rear to get it to prime once the system has been opened. You have to get some oil into the pump. Take one the the cooler lines off and pour some oil down it while slowly turning the pump. Other option is to remove the filter flange and pack the oil pump gears with petroleum jelly.
 
I tried priming the engine all night and all morning with no success. I just laid down and was thinking why nothing I was doing was working.

Question: does the oil filter need to be filled for priming? (When you fill thru the oil cooler line?) I put a oil filter and oil change when I put the car back together recently when I changed the oil pickup.
 
wiseman said:
I tried priming the engine all night and all morning with no success. I just laid down and was thinking why nothing I was doing was working.

Question: does the oil filter need to be filled for priming? (When you fill thru the oil cooler line?) I put a oil filter and oil change when I put the car back together recently when I changed the oil pickup.
Click to expand...

Try to fill as much up as you can like the oil cooler lines and oil filter for it to have some oil for the oil pump to pickup oil and get primed , it is basically air locked , like someone said you may need to pack the oil pump gears with Vaseline so it can help get primed also .
 
If you didn't put oil in the filter its making it harder for the prime to start. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the radiator get a small funnel and start pouring oil down in it. Make sure your using a corded drill that has some power. I have a good Dewalt cordless that does the job. Spin it clockwise. How much oil do you have in the motor right now?
 
I pulled the filter off this morning to fill it, but from all the quarts feed down the oil cooler line last night (about 4 quarts, that took forever) the filter was as full as I could ever probably get. The filter was empty when I installed it, but it was 5/8 to 3/4 filter when I took it off. I have been feeding oil thru the oil cooler lines all night and morning. I am stuck now.......I guess the Vaseline method is next, huh? I didn't want to have to pack those gears.....:-(
 
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