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Pro-Pain: Product & Install Review.

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motorhead

motorhead mike
Joined
Sep 9, 2001
Messages
1,181
Well it has been two afternoons and the project is about complete… when the sun goes down it gets cold quick up here.

Like most are aware the Pro-Pain kit is well thought out and engineered. However, I am not here to kiss any asses… I am going to list a few of my own complications with the kit and its installation. And also offer advice and guidance to would be consumers.

1) Do a test fit of everything, a dry run of how it is going to go together, lay it out in the trunk and see that it fits as claimed. Because mine was a bit tricky, I partially blame the luxury trunk kit that my car has (thick padding). However, the regulator when installed to the tank, has about 1/16” of clearance below the speaker/package tray. I actually had to mount my tank toward the PS middle of the trunk to find enough space.
2) You may find that your solenoid ends up very close to the regulator knob, like me. Not good if you have fat fingers. This is not a problem in my case (fat fingers).
3) The finish on the tank bracket is… well plain crap. You’d figure that for the money you pay, it would come powder-coated and not painted flat black.
4) Speaking of half assed things, the missing components that are required for the install about drove me mad. Not to mention the PITA things required in the install.
- You’ll need (2) 1” long – 5/16” bolts w/ 2 nuts, 2 flat and 2 lock washers. To get the bracket to install. 50 cents of parts don’t make it into the kit.
- Teflon paste… it costs very little. Why can’t they just include it?
- 9/16” Drill bit. Now, I don’t own a ½” drive drill so I went to Home Depot to get a 9/16” bit w/ a 3/8” shank. Hmm… they only go up to ½” w/ a 3/8 shank. No dice, good thing I already have one. So I drilled the ½” hole and using a hacksaw blade I sectioned the hole and beat a ½” drive extension through the hole… making it JUST large enough to run the line through. This unrealistic drill bit size BIT MY ASS. But it gets better.
- There is NO mention of the blow down tube in the instructions, much less how to install it. FYI, the inside diameter of the hose is 5/8”. Try getting a 3/8” shank bit in this size! Repeat the previously mentioned hole enlarging technique. Now, you will find that the hose won’t go through the hole… unless you really applied yourself with the “hole technique”. What I did, thinking ahead was I got a 5/8” barbed PCV fitting from Home Depot (79 cents) and fed it up through the hole and into the hose. So now the blow down tube is secure, and less likely to back itself up into the trunk.
- Assembling the tank, clamps, and regulator to the bracket in the trunk is a major discomfort. You are going to need to be limber to pull this one off time and again. See your chiropractor after assembly. The good news is that this doesn’t have to happen to often with the “long life” of the tank’s contents. Not a good design ergonomically, if you care to retain trunk space. Also there is the working of the 1-1/8” wrench to install the regulator fitting to the tank… I hope you enjoy turning the threaded fitting a ¼ turn at a time until it is seated… because you are going to be hitting the underside of the weather stripping often.
- Then there is the discharge nozzle installation. Hmm… the instructions are simple enough if you want to drill a hole in a hose and call it a day. I didn’t, so I took the alternate route and chose to install the nozzle into the up pipe… right above the hose. Drill a 3/8” hole… says the instructions. Well at least I have that bit… I think to myself. I learned that the stock up pipe is some strong ass steel. I also learned that the nozzle WILL NOT fit through a 3/8” hole. It will not thread itself in either. So out comes the tap and die set (make sure you own one). A few minutes later… it treads in. Yeah! Hmmm… it looks kind of loose in there. Back it out and put a rubber grommet over the treads and back in it goes… squish! And it is loose again. Hmmm… maybe the supplied nut will be a good shim. Nope… too thick. A couple of junk washers later, it works. I am going to have the supplied nut welded onto the pipe in the near future.
- The lack of vacuum hose is annoying. $3 CDN for 3’.
- A few zip ties wouldn’t hurt either.
- Connectors for the power line and a longer ground would be advantageous.
5) No one seemed impressed that I had to have my new tank purged… and one attendant asked why they didn’t purge it when I bought it. I explained it was shipped to me… yada yada yada. $5 CDN charge for the service and $6 CDN for the fill up.
6) Make sure you check for leaks when you do a final assembly. I smelled something funny when I opened the tank It seems I had another full “go around” with the regulator to tank fitting… it isn’t tight until it stops moving completely.
7) I find the font on the “Command Center” to be offensive… I chose to NOT mount it in plain full-time driving view. I am graphically picky (Designer by trade)… and don’t care to think of Aladdin every time I look at my dash.
8) Watch the S/S line around your alternator… there is the potential for “sparky sparky”!!!

Now, on to the compliments:

1) Well designed… engineered to the T.
2) Looks damn cool under the hood. Well, it would if I had a hood.
3) Looks damn cool in the trunk.
4) Lots of wiring & S/S line to reach and run it how/where you want.
5) Ease of changing the “jets”. But, this is also relative to where you mount the nozzle.
6) The service and tech support are great. I am waiting for my Pro-Pain friendly chip to come back from JayC’s place.
7) Reasonably easy to install (not a bolt-on)… it goes together in a snap once everything is in place.
8) Added performance potential is amazing.

I hope to have pics in the near future… but, I remain digital cameraless since I keep spending money on the cars. :D

I have yet to test drive the system… I think I will tomorrow.
 
GREAT WORK!

Excellent Info!

Mike, this thread will become the "standard" reference for everyone considering/planning an installation.

Thanks for your very detailed & thorough report!
_____________________________________________

Please continue to keep us posted on how it all goes from here.

With a tip-of-the-cap, TL :)
 
Do the instructions specifically say to use Teflon tape?
 
Originally posted by JayC
Do the instructions specifically say to use Teflon tape?

Is this a rhetorical question? 'Cause I thought you wrote the instructions... :confused:

If I remember correctly it says Teflon tape or pipe dope... the instructions are out in the car... in the cold... I'll check on this in the morning. :)

I'd just like to make it clear that I am not surprised by the complications that I ran into, or upset by them... you do this (the automotive hobby) long enough and you come to grips with any modification having it's hitches.
 
I wrote the original instructions, I didnt do the final draft. I'd like to know if it specifically says Teflon tape.
 
Just because I like you I went outside in the cold rain. ;)

Originally posted by JayC
I wrote the original instructions, I didnt do the final draft. I'd like to know if it specifically says Teflon tape.

Nope. It says Teflon paste about 3 different times through the document.

I substituted it for Teflon tape since it was used by the manufacturer on the regulator housing.

I can't imagine it making a difference. Can you?
 
Yes

I would not use tape. Thats why it isnt on the instructions :)
 
Originally posted by JayC
Yes

I would not use tape. Thats why it isnt on the instructions :)

Reason?

And why would OGS or the manufacturer skip using it?
 
There's nothing wrong with Teflon tape from a safety standpoint and when used correctly, it's fine. The problems start when someone gets overzealous with the tape and bits and pieces of the tape start breaking loose inside the flow path. This leads to the solenoid hanging open and having a persistent leak.

I have no doubt that the regulator manufacturer knows how to apply Teflon tape. You may also. But I personally hate the stuff and don't use it going back to horror storys in my nitrous days with solenoids getting stopped up with Teflon tape shrapnel. The paste works better IMO and isnt prone to these problems.
 
Originally posted by JayC
There's nothing wrong with Teflon tape from a safety standpoint and when used correctly, it's fine. The problems start when someone gets overzealous with the tape and bits and pieces of the tape start breaking loose inside the flow path. This leads to the solenoid hanging open and having a persistent leak.

I have no doubt that the regulator manufacturer knows how to apply Teflon tape. You may also. But I personally hate the stuff and don't use it going back to horror storys in my nitrous days with solenoids getting stopped up with Teflon tape shrapnel. The paste works better IMO and isnt prone to these problems.

Makes sense. Thanks for the honesty... and I edited the 1st post to better reflect the instructions. And when I have the time, I'll redo the system with Teflon paste.

BTW, You have mail. :)
 
Originally posted by Mr. T
- There is NO mention of the blow down tube in the instructions, much less how to install it. FYI, the inside diameter of the hose is 5/8”.

I'm seriously not trying to be a smart-ass here... but did you ever hear of a uni-bit? they have 3/8 or 1/2in shanks and go up progressively in size as you go deeper. mine goes from 1/2in to 1in. It saves a lot of time, and looks a lot better than beating out a hole. just my $0.02 though.
 
Re: Re: Pro-Pain: Product & Install Review.

Originally posted by GNnut
I'm seriously not trying to be a smart-ass here... but did you ever hear of a uni-bit? they have 3/8 or 1/2in shanks and go up progressively in size as you go deeper. mine goes from 1/2in to 1in. It saves a lot of time, and looks a lot better than beating out a hole. just my $0.02 though.

Nope.

But, I JUST learned about it on the "other board". So there is the problem solved for the rest of the users. I would have used a hole saw, but my smallest attachment is 1.25"... kinda overkill.

Once again I'll make this clear for anyone else with questions regarding my tool selection: I am 24, going to University full time, paying my own way, have a SMALL selection of hand tools, and bit of automotive working knowledge on how to apply them. If I had a professional tool selection this would have been a lot easier.

Take care,
 
Re: Re: Re: Pro-Pain: Product & Install Review.

Originally posted by Mr. T
Once again I'll make this clear for anyone else with questions regarding my tool selection: I am 24, going to University full time, paying my own way, have a SMALL selection of hand tools, and bit of automotive working knowledge on how to apply them. If I had a professional tool selection this would have been a lot easier.

Take care,

I know what you mean, I'm 20. Its good to see some other "younger" guys driving GN's besides me.:D
 
OK, I just got my kit (Finally) and wanted to look over this post again just as a refresher. I still don't see where the blow down tube goes, it apears like it should go over the screw on the bottle valve, is that correct?


Anyways, free bump TTT
 
The valve on the top of the tank. You've got the large female thread on one side - on the opposite side is a short nipple - thats where the tube goes. I ran mine using a longer length of hose into the spare tire well and drilled the "knockout plug" in the bottom for the tube in order to eliminate drilling one more permanent hole in the car. The only other suggestion that I can make is to use a 90 degree fitting to rotate the gauges to a point that you can see them better - much better! The mounting bracket didn't turn me on too much either, but more from a strength standpoint. I was worried about the constant flexing of the two 5/16 bolts through the single thin thickness of the trunk floor, so I made a second plate to bolt it through underneath. Not concerned about the bolts, but cracking the sheetmetal in the floor. That little bottle probably jerks pretty good when launching on slicks / drag radials! Other than that, a BEAUTIFUL kit!
 
Tip..

Hey,take two zip ties and run them through the top part of the tank(slots on valve cage) and then to your rear seat braces for some extra tank stability.Put a small piece of foam or something between the tank and steel if you need to.Did it on mine to keep it from bobbing around and maybe a gauge hitting the metal above on a big bump.It sure does give the tank a sturdier feel.
 
And a few more...

You can also run the power injection light to work with the solenoid.It really helps me with my injection point setting and such.
I have the control in the console.I took a 1/8" jack and wired it to the overboost LED(inside the box)and mounted it on the top.Then took a 1/2" panel mount red lamp that snaps right into a 1/2" hole and mounted it right above my A pillar boost gauge in the pod ran the wire and plug to the control box,there was plenty of room.It works great and is highly visible day or night without taking your eyes off the road.I also added a small light for inside the console to illuminate the box at night for quick easy changes if need be.I did not have to do too much to get it to work in the console,a couple of feet of hose,and a bit of wire and a hot glue gun to make the wire routing under the console neater and other things.Nothing is visible exept this small red overboost light on the A pillar boost pod when the console is closed.I do have a few pics,maybe tomorrow I could put them up if anyone wants a looksee.
 
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