Pro Touring bar problem

[Marcus]

Okay guys let`s set a few things straight (no pun intended) here. Swaybars are NOT intended to locate the rear axle laterally. Ever. No matter if they`re stock ProTouring or drag race. That`s the job of the upper trailing arms in a C4L suspension such as that of the G body.
What happened here is that the UCAs came loose and the rear end shifted. The swaybar has nothing to do with it. It`s mounted in the same format that almost every single car made with a swaybar has been made with, frame/axle mounted with end links. The factory G (and A) body cars are the oddballs. If you don`t want this to happen simply use a few drops of Loctite on any threaded components you don`t want to have come loose. That`s why they make it.
The watts link we developed for these cars will certainly prevent unwanted lateral axle movement, as well as properly locating the rear roll center. We`re really pleased with how it makes these cars so linear and predictable to drive. If you want one for those reasons fantastic, you`ll be very impressed with it but to say it`s necessary simply because you`re removed the factory LCA mounted rear swaybar and replaced it with a link mounted one is absurd. Mark SC&C
PS. Binding is NOT good.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Here's a picture of how I mounted mine, no tire rub. Think mounting the bushings as far outboard as possible is the way to go. If an adjustable control arm loosened up then of course things would change, not the bars fault.

 

[xcessiv6]

I see all these products for handling, but I do not see any testing info on them its looks like another product to make money on. Its amazing that Nascar does not need a watts bar or mount their sway bars like the supposed "PT" bars. It looks like a waste of money on parts that you will never see the potential of. If the "PT" bar was so good then Rancho would of kept selling them since they invented them. No mater what you do suspension wize if you don't have the right tire you are wasting your money.

 

[scot w.]

Okay since NOW the truth or the cause is out (Upper control arms came LOOSE) That is a different story and it is the reason for everyones Thoughts on this matter.

Mark (tr custom) The reason you don't have tire rub and it's been fine on your car is simply because you never drive your car on an autocross or a road course to use the product! Driving around town don't count!! Anyone can do that and say it's fine, But you start doing that and you will see the weak points in things!!! and rather quickly too!!

Mounting the bushings as far outward is the same thing Paul has you do on the H & R bar and I would assume it's the right thing to do on ANY bar mounted the same on the axle..


(xcessiv) Good question on the testing of said products.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

You never saw me take an exit ramp off the Wilbur Cross parkway.:biggrin: :biggrin:

 

[scot w.]

You never saw me take an exit ramp off the Wilbur Cross parkway.:biggrin: :biggrin:

LOL KNOWONE SEE'S YOU PERIOD!!! "ONE" exit ramp does not come close there big guy!!

Run several Auto-X's and have your car past 160mph on a road course then you can say something!! :biggrin:


During this build I plan on spending some time talking to various vendors on the G-bodys set up and I am willing to do "Real world" testing of there products at several events and in several conditions. I guess I should start making calls!! :biggrin:


Scot W.

 

[UNGN]

Right now we are just going under the assumption that the adjustable upper came loose. When it gets torn apart this weekend we'll know for sure.

One of the adjustable upper has come loose before with the Herb Adams bar and it didn't result in the tire grinding into the frame. There was in fact no indication that an upper arm came loose with the old bar.

As for the combination of Spherical ball joints and the PT bar somehow not allowing the tire to contact the frame because we have magical C4L rear suspensions, if that were truly the case, there would be zero need for a watts link.

The PT bar is a good rear bar. I just wouldn't use one with spherical joints and no watts link or panhard bar... oh wait, I did.

I just won't use one again with no watts link or panhard bar.

 

[Silver Fox]

Right now we are just going under the assumption that the adjustable upper came loose. When it gets torn apart this weekend we'll know for sure.

One of the adjustable upper has come loose before with the Herb Adams bar and it didn't result in the tire grinding into the frame. There was in fact no indication that an upper arm came loose with the old bar.

As for the combination of Spherical ball joints and the PT bar somehow not allowing the tire to contact the frame because we have magical C4L rear suspensions, if that were truly the case, there would be zero need for a watts link.

The PT bar is a good rear bar. I just wouldn't use one with spherical joints and no watts link or panhard bar... oh wait, I did.

I just won't use one again with no watts link or panhard bar.

Any update on your findings? I had the PT bar on my "list" but am awaiting your findings before making a decision.

Rob

 

[UNGN]

Any update on your findings? I had the PT bar on my "list" but am awaiting your findings before making a decision.

Rob

Both upper Adjustable came lose and one got a little short and one got a little long. Both were drilled and pinned so that won't happen again. If we weren't running adjustables, we would not have had a problem, but if we had our old swaybar, we wouldn't have had a problem, either. The bar also hits our 3" exhaust pipes, so they will need to be dimpled.

We are going to install the watts link, but have to move stuff around, first. we have a Transmission cooler filter and pump and fuel cell cage mount that need to be moved to fit the watts link crossbar.

Handling with the bar is great. Where you really notice the difference is a long sweeping turn with bumps. The rear axle can absorb the bumps now where before it would bounce and want to step out, which is scary at 160 mph. At slower speeds handing is better, too, but the improvements are at the limits of handling so the harder you push it, the more of a difference you will feel.

We'll really be able to measure the difference at the Nebraska open road race in August, since we pretty much drive one leg of the race completely flat out and have 7 years of data to compare it to.

 

[Silver Fox]

Both upper Adjustable came lose and one got a little short and one got a little long. Both were drilled and pinned so that won't happen again. If we weren't running adjustables, we would not have had a problem, but if we had our old swaybar, we wouldn't have had a problem, either. The bar also hits our 3" exhaust pipes, so they will need to be dimpled.

We are going to install the watts link, but have to move stuff around, first. we have a Transmission cooler filter and pump and fuel cell cage mount that need to be moved to fit the watts link crossbar.

Handling with the bar is great. Where you really notice the difference is a long sweeping turn with bumps. The rear axle can absorb the bumps now where before it would bounce and want to step out, which is scary at 160 mph. At slower speeds handing is better, too, but the improvements are at the limits of handling so the harder you push it, the more of a difference you will feel.

We'll really be able to measure the difference at the Nebraska open road race in August, since we pretty much drive one leg of the race completely flat out and have 7 years of data to compare it to.

Thanks for the info. I believe I will be going with a set up similar to yours, without the Watts Link (as it looks like I wold have to do some creative exhaust work).