You can type here any text you want

Production 4.1 build video with decent tech

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Mike T

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2013
Messages
1,576
Don't know how old this is but it has a lot of good info for the new guys and some interesting modifications that may be of interest to the seasoned guys.

 
Don't know how old this is but it has a lot of good info for the new guys and some interesting modifications that may be of interest to the seasoned guys.

Hey this is cool, thanks for sharing
 
It is "old school", but is good info.

We do it somewhat different based upon what we have learned and experienced when building many 4.1's from the 90's.

Different is not good or bad, but we have our preferences to achieve the same, or hopefully better, results!

For example, a dry sump set up is not needed or wanted for a street car, especially since any production block over 600 HP becomes problematic.
 
What about grinding down the crank journals to Chevy size. Is that still advisable since there are rods available? Do you guys do that Nick?

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
What about grinding down the crank journals to Chevy size. Is that still advisable since there are rods available? Do you guys do that Nick?........

I did that once and I have the front part of the crank to remind me never go that route again! :(

crank.jpg
 
Man I know that isnt funny but I have to admit the way you answered the question made me laugh!.........

Glad you liked it Andrew, not many others have parts like that around as reminders of bad experiences as parts and pictures are a great way to learn, like show-and-tell in school!

I have a whole box of "reminders" which played a big part in my turbo Buick education. :)
 
What about grinding down the crank journals to Chevy size.


I have a 2.66 BMS crank that has been cut to SBC rod journals and the mains of course are stock buick.....I think it originated from the Indy program.

It has been setting under one of my benches for years uncovered and I recently pulled it to have a look. The mains still look very good with very little surface rust however the rod journal are now covered with rust to the point they would need to go .010 to clean up. Not sure what made them more prone to rust but was thinking the re cut surface may have been more porous or rough on a microscopic level.
 
Good video. Part 2 and 3 are also on You Tube. One thing that was left out was how to get oil to the drivers side lifters with a non grooved roller cam front journal. Maybe it's in part 2 or 3? Then there is the cam to rod clearance issue and grinding the relief on the oil passage for rod clearance with a stroker crank. Also note the girdle. It's a pain to install. It's much easier to use billet caps for ease of assembly, but the girdle works well IMO. And then there are the cracks in the deck from the center studs to the water passages. Not a problem until the threads let go!
 
Last edited:
It is "old school", but is good info.

We do it somewhat different based upon what we have learned and experienced when building many 4.1's from the 90's.

Different is not good or bad, but we have our preferences to achieve the same, or hopefully better, results!

For example, a dry sump set up is not needed or wanted for a street car, especially since any production block over 600 HP becomes problematic.
Nick I think know the answer to this question, do you use a girdle on your 4.1L builds?
 
I never use a girdle, a forged crank and 2 center steel caps work for me.
I built a 109 block and I got 1, 2, and 3 billet mains and forged crank. I read somewhere that girdles should only be used with blocks where the mains aren't sunk into the skirt of a block. I believe in the article they were rebuilding Ford Windsor. Don't mean to go off thread topic. If find that article I'll post the link.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top