so i orderd a converter from dusty and i finally drove the car today with it on. so i drove around town to see and feel the diffrence. i noticed that when you hold the brakes and give it gas the tires break loose at 2700rpms my stock one did that at 1800rpms..my question is does that sound about right for a 3200 stall. thanks,tony
ptc 3200 stall
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That depends in a lot of things like the tune down low and the vacuum/boost at a given rpm.
what do you mean..tune down low and i have a vdo boost gage.. can i tell with that?
Like air fuel ratio and timing as you try and build boost. Just before the needle starts to move you could check the stall speed.
forcedfedv6
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You need to sent it back for Re-stall, mine was stalling at 2,900 and it was a dog when you punch it WOT, it would take about 2 to 3 seconds to spool my .70 turbo an trust me there was nothing wrong with my tune it was all in the converter, i am hoping that when i get it back with the new 3,300 stall it will change everything all together, my was also shifting at 5k at wot between 2nd and 3rd gear, with new stall increased 400 rpm I should be right at 5,400rpm at WOT which is were it needs to be..
the converter is most likely just fine for that turbo.
put a week of drivetime on it to get it broken in before deciding if it needs to be changed.
You may need to work on your brakes to hold the car back now, and to get a true stall speed reading. The stock converters typically stall at 1900 at zero psi, and 2400 at 5 psi (if I remember correctly)
You need to measure your converter at 0 psi and 5 psi to get a feel for how it runs on your car.
Bob
put a week of drivetime on it to get it broken in before deciding if it needs to be changed.
You may need to work on your brakes to hold the car back now, and to get a true stall speed reading. The stock converters typically stall at 1900 at zero psi, and 2400 at 5 psi (if I remember correctly)
You need to measure your converter at 0 psi and 5 psi to get a feel for how it runs on your car.
Bob
forcedfedv6
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I had ordered a 3,200 from dusty but somehow it was only hitting 2,900 at 0psi the stall that you order is what the converter should hit at 0 boost if not they it maybe to tight for your application, so back it went to get loosen up another 400rpm because that is what we concluded it needed to be done after some testing, like dusty says, with turbo cars it is difficult to get he converter right the 1st time, that is why they offer a free stall when you 1st buy them.. 
and with my brakes i can hold 14psi on the foot brake. 
, Dusty is a very stand up guy and its getting the job done without any if and buts.
and with my brakes i can hold 14psi on the foot brake. , Dusty is a very stand up guy and its getting the job done without any if and buts.Dusty Bradford
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Like most have said. Try to bring your car up to 0-1# of boost and check the rpm at this point. You should be around 3200 with a 3200 converter. You can even use the e-brake to assist the rear brakes to help you do this test. If it goes 3000-3200 before your boost gauge moves from 0, the converter is right and you should look at the brakes. If you get to 3000 and have 5# of boost, the converter will need an adjustment.
If you've done alot of burnout's in the past, the brakes could be glazed over. I always used the cheapest/softest pads I could buy on the back brakes. After a couple weekends of racing I'd have to scuff them up with sandpaper because they get very slick doing a burnout without a line-lock.
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