pulling motor this weekend- bellhousing bolt size etc?

[haywire4130]

hi all, just a couple questions. i'm preparing to pull the motor on my t-type and want to round up all the stuff i will need ahead of time. what is the thread size on the bellhousing bolts? i wanted to pick up a few to secure it on my engine stand. second, what is the best way to prevent the engine from spinning while doing a leak down test? i bought the car with a blown head gasket on the driver's side, and it was pushing oil out the breathers at an alarming rate . allegedly it has trw forged pistons in it, does trw make it's own rings or is there a better design i can go with. i'd like to do it once correctly. thanks-

 

[jpratt]

9/16 I am sure. Swivel head socket and a lot of extensions.

 

[draggin61]

So that would likely be 3/8-16 thread size. I don't know this for sure, but it is probable.

 

[haywire4130]

thanks draggin, i wanted to make sure they weren't metric, i have a whole slew of 3/8-16's floating around. i am assuming the ones that come out won't be long enough to fit thru the arms on my stand and catch enough threads to be safe...

 

[mikestertwo]

Use Grade 8, 3/8-16 bolts

 

[draggin61]

thanks draggin, i wanted to make sure they weren't metric, i have a whole slew of 3/8-16's floating around. i am assuming the ones that come out won't be long enough to fit thru the arms on my stand and catch enough threads to be safe...

Yea, you will definately need longer bolts. I tried to reply from my blackberry, but it didn't get through. I said that I wasn't dure if they were sae or metric, but if the other poster was sure of 9/16 then they would be 3/8-16. As I see from another post that is the correct size.

 

[novaderrik]

the blowby is probably from the blown head gasket- when i got my car, the passenger side head gasket was blown out between the 2 front cylinders and into the intake valley. when it was running, there was a lot of smoke coming out of the breather in the valve cover. i put new head gaskets in, and there was no blowby any more...

 

[haywire4130]

i bet you're right! didn't cross my mind that it could have blown that way. it is pushing oil out of both valve covers... and it is leaking coolant out of the drivers side right by the motor mount. i'm sure it is carnage in there, the kid i bought it from was a complete butcher

 

[haywire4130]

so does anybody have a damage-free method to keep the crank from turning when doing a leak down test?

 

[Benched]

Remove the inspection plate to the flywheel. Use a vice grip plier around the flywheel to stop the flywheel when it hits the bell housing.

I did this to torque the crankshaft pulley bolt.

 

[williambavila]

hi all, just a couple questions. i'm preparing to pull the motor on my t-type and want to round up all the stuff i will need ahead of time. what is the thread size on the bellhousing bolts? i wanted to pick up a few to secure it on my engine stand. second, what is the best way to prevent the engine from spinning while doing a leak down test? i bought the car with a blown head gasket on the driver's side, and it was pushing oil out the breathers at an alarming rate . allegedly it has trw forged pistons in it, does trw make it's own rings or is there a better design i can go with. i'd like to do it once correctly. thanks-

you will need 10mm 15mm and 14mm a 13mm 12mm a engine hoist and a couple drain pans,flat screwdriver. use the metric stuff it will fit better on the bolts and most of the stuff is metric anyhow its a metric chassis. just did a motor myself

 

[williambavila]

as for rings find out what kinda pistons then buy rings accordingly.

 

[haywire4130]

mission accomplished! 1 engine and trans removed and ready for disassembly...2 guys 4 hours 2 subs and a slew of beers. not bad for the first time. thanks everyone for your imput. i found a lot of mickey mousery while removing and i'm glad it will all be tight and proper. FWIW there was a reciept from cotton's performance in the glovebox for about $2200 bucks for replacing the head gaskets 2 months prior to my purchase. i find it very hard to believe that they (cotton's) would leave that many bolts loose and cross threaded, as well as some very poor wire and clamp routing. that and every connector in the wiring harness had the lock-tab broken off . i thought they had a good reputation in new england? i should have her torn down and an official autopsy next weekend. fingers crossed!

 

[Dabigguy]

One should be careful bashing another's reputation in public when you do not know 100% that Cotton's was the last to touch the car. You said the guy you bought it from was a hack and could have tinkered with it.

If you hurry, you can still edit your post. Good luck with the engine !!!

 

[haywire4130]

i can't take it back and i am not accusing them of anything, i was just venting because i found one hack after another all day long. you're absolutely right, i am not 100 percent certain it was them, and they are big supporters of this site so i was way out of line even mentioning them by name. i need to quit going on here late at night i guess