Pulling the Motor

[MissingMyBuick]

I am going to help my brother pull the motor out of his GN ( used to be my GN) for a rebuild. I was wondering if any of you could give me some advice on how to do this. I don't know exactly what I should hook the engine hoist up to. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Joe 1320]

As odd as it sounds, I use a HD tow strap wrapped through the intake manifold and pull it straight up. No scratches, no bolts to put into the head and the motor stays well balanced on the way out.

 

[MissingMyBuick]

That sounds like a good idea. I guess we will be putting the intake manifold back on. We had it off because we were going to just have the manifold (upper and lower), and the heads ported. But then my brother got the green light on pulling the motor from my dad.

 

[Roc87]

Be careful with the exhaust crossover, the tranny cooler lines run between the block and the crossover. Also make sure you're supporting the tranny. When you unplug the sensors the wiring harness will pretty much stay in the shape they've been for years, so hooking them back up when you get the engine back in is pretty simple. Also be sure that while you're hoisting the engine, you make sure the fuel lines are disconnected and not caught on anything like a frame brace near the crossmember.

 

[MissingMyBuick]

Thanks for all of the tips. This is my first attempt at pulling a motor, so all of your advice is greatly appreciated. I did find a useful source on how to pull a motor on gnttype.org, I will be referring to that while we are in action.

 

[tc86gn]

do a search on this board. This topic has been discussed over and over. you will find a lot of different techniques. I certainly would not go to the trouble of putting the intake on to pull the motor if you already have it off. That is just more work. screw a bolt in the head at the front passenger side and the rear drivers side where the intake bolted to the heads and use that to hook up a chain and hoist. of course do not use your intake bolts. find some other ones that do not matter if they get bent and such.
The info on this board is pretty good. plus more opinions to choose from.
The article in reference is a little vague for a first timer too. I do not understand why you would leave the starter wires hooked up or why you would want to REMOVE the a/c components when you can simply just tie wrap them to the side, or even why you would drain the oil. etc....
Just my o2

 

[MissingMyBuick]

Thanks, I don't know exactly which route we will go, it wouldn't be too hard for us to put the intake manifold back on. On the other hand let me make sure I understand you correctly, are you saying to put the bolt through a link in the chain on either side and then tighten each bolt into their respective places?

 

[tc86gn]

yes. also use a washer so the chain does not slip off of the bolt. remember to be safe!! do not get in a hurry. there are a lot of different ways to do this so as I said just do a search and choose what best suits you. good luck.

 

[MissingMyBuick]

TC86GN, Thanks again. I don't want to be too nosy, but could you tell me if your rebuild was for a street driven car and if it was can you tell me what exactly you did to your motor, and what parts you used ( brand names, specifications, etc., ex. TRW pistons 8:1 compression)? Did you have the motor bored? Head porting, cam specs, etc. etc. I would like to just have an idea of what we should do with the motor. Thanks

 

[Dave Simpkins]

Geeef less pull

Maybe this is already yer standard practice for a motor re and re ... but just in case...

Get a big box of heavy duty zip lock baggies and put yer nuts - bolts - screws - washers - etc... in to separate baggies grouped by component and LABEL THEM WELL ....vcause experience tells me that an simple in and out which you figure might take a week can actually run to several weeks and MEMORY fades pretty quick up here.

Pull the rad also .... may take a few extra mins. but man it makes the job soooo much easier.

ds

 

[tc86gn]

you just reminded me to complete my signature. I keep putting it off.
What you do to your motor depends on your goals and pocketbook. ther are some good recipes on gnttype.org for you to get an idea of what want to accomplish.
When I built mine I was going for a streetable car that would put me in the 11's. I also had no computer at the time so I did not have access to the mountains of info out there that you have available to you.
Block is bored .030 w/forged TRW's w/sealed power file fit rings,stillI have a KB mark1 txb cam that I am not satisfied with because it is too noisy. performs well but too noisy. KBturboflow heads w/ 1.77&1.55 stainless valves,70mmTB w/matched upper,lucas 009's, TA49,3"dp, 2 1/2 exh w/dynomax muffs,everything balanced,ARP fasteners to include head stud kit, standard crank,KB headers,PTE oil system,JC 93 chip,ramchargers dual fan,etc...lots more goodies to install and buy!
These cars are addicting but a lot of fun and money.
Compared to a lot of guys on this board I am a rookie! You just need to do a lot of research and decide what is right for you.
Best of luck and keep posting.

 

[MissingMyBuick]

Is the cam you have in your motor a roller or flat tappett? It's hydraulic, right? Do you think that a roller valvetrain would be a waste of money? I know that they will free up some of the power that is lost with a flat tappet cam, but is the cost worth it? We will probably be looking for 12 second times, nothing too extreme. My brother is still pretty young (17). Also, do you think a setup like yours would work well for a daily driven car?

 

[tc86gn]

My cam is hydraulic and i also have roller rockers. someone else will have to give some input on roller cams in these motors as I have no experience with a roller in these motors.
My setup works fine for me I drive it daily to work with no problems. Also do not forget the fuel system upgrades like fuel pump,regulator and fp gauge.

 

[MissingMyBuick]

Thanks, I guess that is all I need to know for now.