Question about crank position sensor.

[Snorman]

Over the last few weeks, the car started making a few odd noises (presumably because it had sat fairly dormant for so long before I bought it). The first was a squeaky belt...easy fix.
The next noise started out as an intermittent tapping from the accessory drive region. Over the course of 2 weeks, it went from a "tap" to a "squeak". Tonight, I tracked down exactly what it was.
The crank position sensor was rubbing a bit too hard against the pickup points behind the damper. With the car idling, and the squeak present, a shot of TB cleaner eliminated the squeak for a minute or two. In light of this, I loosened the bracket that seems to hold the magnet in place and very slightly nudged the magnet back in the bracket...maybe ".015-".020 at most.
The car fired right up and idles fine, seems to run fine and I can detect no ill effects.
My questions are...
Is there a spec for the gap on the CPS? Should I throw a feeler gauge in there and more precisely adjust it tomorrow? Did I dramatically alter the rotation of the earth (or the performance of my TR) by doing this?
Thanks!
S.

 

[Jimn8or]

.025", a Bud beer can piece etc...this is the range you're looking for, .025" to be precise. I see the planets are coming into alignment now...now what
HTH
Jim

 

[topfuel]

Take a good look at the magnet to make sure it wasn't damaged
from the rubbing, that can't be good.
I would also turn the engine by hand to check the clearance of
each vane on the dampner, they can bend slightly and cause
rubbing. Some tool company sells a vane checker/straightener
for the dampner but it's like $200 bucks
If your'e not a Bud drinker, I think a matchbook is about .025
thick

 

[JToups386]

Yes, do as they suggested to make sure it has clearance. Of course, they do actually make an item called a feeler gauge, that even has numeric markings on it in order to gauge the gap. I know it's not nearly as scientific as a piece of Bud can or matchbook, but it should get the job done for you.

If it rubbed too much, it very well might have weakened it, and could snap off at any given time. Look for cracks or fractures in the piece if you can. If you have the original stock piece, you're really running a risk of that. They had a poor design originally, and the replacement pieces were changed, and made a little more durable. I know they often get covered in oil residue over time, so maybe take some carb cleaner and spray it off too. I've had a couple break over the years, and when they do, you ain't goin' nowhere! As long as you have clearance on both sides, you should be good to go. However, I would also suggest running down to your local parts store or dealer, and pick up a spare sensor to keep in stock, just in case yours takes a dump on you. The last one I bought from the dealer was about $35 and came with the mounting bracket too. It's also roadside repairable if you absolutely had to do it in a pinch.

 

[Dan Thompson]

Like JToups386 said, if it breaks you ain't goin' nowhere!

I use this idea as my kill switch. When the circuit is open the engine will not fire, just turns over and over and over...