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question about intake manifold installation

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The valley pan IS the intake gasket, its all one piece...the part # is MS96???? Something like that, would have to look it up.
 
Don't use the rubber seals either that come with the valley pan. Use RTV on both sides and around the water ports (all 4 corners).
 
Don't use the rubber seals either that come with the valley pan. Use RTV on both sides and around the water ports (all 4 corners).
Why not ?
Ive been building these motors
For over 15yrs
Never had any issues

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I've also been using the rubber end pieces for years. I use a thin smear of ultra black or ultra gray on both the inner channel and top of the rubber seal plus a larger dab on each end where the head/block/intake intersect. Never had an issue or leak.
 
If I remember correctly, there was a problem w/milled heads that was causing seating and leaking problems between the int., block and heads. Insome cases the mating face of the intakes had to be milled in order to bolt up.
 
I've always used the rubber seals as well-never a problem.

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I've built close to 30 of these engines and have always used them with a light smear of Right Stuff around the water ports and a good dab at the ends , never had one leak yet. My own engine has had the heads milled twice and the intake also milled and it's got them in it and NO problems.
 
If I remember correctly, there was a problem w/milled heads that was causing seating and leaking problems between the int., block and heads.
Yes, just ran into this issue. Rubber gaskets held manifold up and bolts were hard to start and porting was not lining up. Caused a vacuum leak. I fully suggest a dry fit with the rubbers to see if they are going to be an issue like they were for me. Used RTV in place of rubber and has no alinement issues, sealed well. The heads were only milled .002" to clean up. The manifold might have been milled, that is unknown. Either way the rubber gaskets caused me a lot of headaches. Just goes to show, check everything first no matter if it works for "everyone" else. Like me you might have the 1 in 10,000 that it doesn't work right for.
 
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Thank you all the the quick responses. I used valley just saw somewhere they said to use Fel-Pro performance 1200 intake manifold gaskets. which i didn't understand ,because i only took a valley pan off when taking off the manifold
 
Good read! Very informative. I used seals ona stock rebuild. Got a few thousand on her already and been testing and learning to tune, ima thrash her back apart and check. See how shes holding up. Im going to take pics and post. Used grey rtv
 
Yes, just ran into this issue. Rubber gaskets held manifold up and bolts were hard to start and porting was not lining up. Caused a vacuum leak. I fully suggest a dry fit with the rubbers to see if they are going to be an issue like they were for me.

. Either way the rubber gaskets caused me a lot of headaches. Just goes to show, check everything first no matter is it works for "everyone" else. Like me you might have the 1 in 10,000 that it doesn't work right for.



I'm glad somebody saved me the trouble of typing it out. Measure the gap, them measure the rubbers. THAT will tell you if you need to run them or not.
 
Or you can have an issue like me and get he intake shaved because it didn't get installed right and the machinist screwed up the intake and gotta buy an intake. fml
 
I'm glad somebody saved me the trouble of typing it out. Measure the gap, them measure the rubbers. THAT will tell you if you need to run them or not.
Without the rubber ends and no gasket the gap between head no intake is very good. With the rubber ends quite the gap. Just had the heads done and intake both ported etc milled.
 
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