turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
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did you make sure the positive and negative wires were hooked up to the pump correctly? did you plug in the battery?
racetronix plug and play and fuel pump
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turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
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hotwire kits use the drivers side rear fuel tank strap bolt as a ground
turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
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there is a place on top of the FP harness where it goes into the tank. it has a orange connector i believe. it supplies the power to the pump, did any of these wires get messed up? also i remember on my pump harness the racetronix pump to wiring connector didnt fit so i used the stock wiring in the tank. IIRC the is a power, ground and a fuel level sender connector. you didnt hook up the positive terminal of the pump to the sender connector did you? also if you took out the schraeder valve out of the fuel rail and the pump primes it will spit out the end of the fuel rail. ake sure you have the valve in and tight so it doesnt leak out.
there is a place on top of the FP harness where it goes into the tank. it has a orange connector i believe. it supplies the power to the pump, did any of these wires get messed up?
The female part that attaches to the male part is where I am talking about.. I can't even get a signal from that (before the orange connection)
you didnt hook up the positive terminal of the pump to the sender connector did you?
?? I don't understand this question. What I did was snip the original blue connector that went to the stock pump off. I took not which was + and -. Crimped on the new connectors provided with the kit and pluged them into the fuel pump at the + and -.
also if you took out the schraeder valve out of the fuel rail and the pump primes it will spit out the end of the fuel rail. ake sure you have the valve in and tight so it doesnt leak out. [
I didn't take the valve out.
The female part that attaches to the male part is where I am talking about.. I can't even get a signal from that (before the orange connection)
you didnt hook up the positive terminal of the pump to the sender connector did you?
?? I don't understand this question. What I did was snip the original blue connector that went to the stock pump off. I took not which was + and -. Crimped on the new connectors provided with the kit and pluged them into the fuel pump at the + and -.
also if you took out the schraeder valve out of the fuel rail and the pump primes it will spit out the end of the fuel rail. ake sure you have the valve in and tight so it doesnt leak out. [
I didn't take the valve out.
turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
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hmmmmm....this is puzzling. i think someone may have messed w/my fuel ump before i got my car b/c all the pump installs i hear about sound different than mine. try putting in the hotwire kit, dont secure it all just plug it in how its supposed to go and see if anything happens. maybe the stock pump wiring got cut somehow. the thing on top of the FP harness is right next to the 3 fuel lines coming out of the tank.
turbo buicks
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thats what i was told too. but on my kit there was NO way to hook up the connector to my wiring. i used the wiring that came on the old pump b/c it already had connectors on it. i was told by a vendor (PTE if i recall correctly) that the wiring between an 87 GN and a 86 GN is a bit different and the connectors i was sent may be for a 86.
turbo buicks
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if this is the case you arent getting any voltage to the pump wiring so it would seem to me that something is not connected or got cut. this sounds like an electrical problem. try the hot wire kit as it pulls voltage directly from the alt. maybe your battery is dead aslo.
ok this is really pissing me off now. I did hook up the hot wire kit for the heck of it, but it still has to go through the black female connector... no dice.
I am not getting any voltage to that rear black connection... wtf??
The battery is fine and working, I didn't even touch this connector other than to remove the orange connector so I could remove the gas tank, and that disconnected no problems, I didn't have to yank and pull at it. I can't really get any play on that set of wires either, they go up into a larger set of wires in loom.
Can someone varify if I SHOULD get voltage from that black connection with the key in the running position (not start)?
TIA. My car isn't going anywhere for a while.
I am not getting any voltage to that rear black connection... wtf??
The battery is fine and working, I didn't even touch this connector other than to remove the orange connector so I could remove the gas tank, and that disconnected no problems, I didn't have to yank and pull at it. I can't really get any play on that set of wires either, they go up into a larger set of wires in loom.
Can someone varify if I SHOULD get voltage from that black connection with the key in the running position (not start)?
TIA. My car isn't going anywhere for a while.
turbo buicks
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well since that is the only place power for the pump could come from then yes i would say you should get voltage from that black connector. all the other electronics work when ignition is on correct? sounds like maybe one of the wires to the black connector is shorted out or grounded somewhere or came loose. is there a way to run power directly from the battery or alternator to the orange male connector that mates to the faulty black connector so you would be bypassing the black connector all together to see if the pump would prime? call John Spina at Caspers Electronics ( www.casperselectronics.com ) and talk to him about any electrical issues. Caspers makes any kind of electrical hookup, relay, etc. you could think of for TR's. their phone number is (847) 247-0484. they sell new male and female fuel pump wiring connectors for $24.
This is not gonna help your no work situation, but did you cut the necked down part off of the pipe on the hanger that you attached the rubber line too? I was told it was a good idea as not to restrict the flow. Anyway have you checked the ground on topp of the sending unit?
Gary,
The ground on top of the tank really doesn't matter if I don't have any power coming in.
Also I didn't cut that more restrictive point off as I just read about it after the inital installation, but that was the first time hearing of it. Has anyone else done this?
turbo buicks: Yes everything else works when the ign is on. I have "why can't I be you" by the Cure dug into my skull now, from testing..
The ground on top of the tank really doesn't matter if I don't have any power coming in.
Also I didn't cut that more restrictive point off as I just read about it after the inital installation, but that was the first time hearing of it. Has anyone else done this?
turbo buicks: Yes everything else works when the ign is on. I have "why can't I be you" by the Cure dug into my skull now, from testing..
turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
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ive heard of cutting that thing off from a guy at PTE. IMO it might help flow a little but if it was really that big of an issue then it would be mentioned more often and probably in the installation instructions somewhere (not sure if it is or not). LOL to the "why cant i be you " comment 
I didn't cut the neck out of my feed line either.
IMO, it isn't enough of a decrease in diameter to impact flow, particularly directly from the tank.
I did kink one of the hard lines by the filter trying to remove it last week.
I have the supplies to replace that...maybe tonight.
S.
IMO, it isn't enough of a decrease in diameter to impact flow, particularly directly from the tank.
I did kink one of the hard lines by the filter trying to remove it last week.
I have the supplies to replace that...maybe tonight. S.
Swt_86
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I know you haven't missed this, but just in case. You are providing power to the pump circuit by using the test wire like TurboDave suggested?
You will only get power to the pump (switch on) for about 2 seconds. This is to prime the injectors. If the engine does not start or is not being cranked, the ecm will shut the power down to the pump. There is a second circuit activated by oil pressure that provides power to the pump if the engine has 5 lbs or more of oil pressure. The test terminal needs to be connected to a power source to test power to the pump. Sorry for re-stating the obvious but if you are like me, when I get frustrated with something, I tend to overlook the obvious.
You will only get power to the pump (switch on) for about 2 seconds. This is to prime the injectors. If the engine does not start or is not being cranked, the ecm will shut the power down to the pump. There is a second circuit activated by oil pressure that provides power to the pump if the engine has 5 lbs or more of oil pressure. The test terminal needs to be connected to a power source to test power to the pump. Sorry for re-stating the obvious but if you are like me, when I get frustrated with something, I tend to overlook the obvious.
Originally posted by Swt_86
I know you haven't missed this, but just in case. You are providing power to the pump circuit by using the test wire like TurboDave suggested?
You will only get power to the pump (switch on) for about 2 seconds. This is to prime the injectors. If the engine does not start or is not being cranked, the ecm will shut the power down to the pump. There is a second circuit activated by oil pressure that provides power to the pump if the engine has 5 lbs or more of oil pressure. The test terminal needs to be connected to a power source to test power to the pump. Sorry for re-stating the obvious but if you are like me, when I get frustrated with something, I tend to overlook the obvious.
That is great!! I didn't know the power only remains on for 2 seconds!! That will explain why my test light doesn't fire up.
Hmm.. now the power wire in the engine bay that would connect to the fuel pump wire has had a little run in with an exhaust manifold so I can't plug that one in.. I guess I could just run a wire from the alternator directly to it. The wire itself is grounded right, so I could just plug in the power? Doing this I should then see a connection on the connector correct?
I am deffinitly one to get very frustrated and become blind to the obvious. To me this is not obvious as I am new to the car but I wanted to let you know I know where your coming from.
I tried (while sweating and cursing) to go over everything I could think of. Well hopefully this is the fix and I will get her going tomorow, tho I don't know why it didn't work the first time then...?Originally posted by GNANIMO
That is great!! I didn't know the power only remains on for 2 seconds!! That will explain why my test light doesn't fire up.
Hmm.. now the power wire in the engine bay that would connect to the fuel pump wire has had a little run in with an exhaust manifold so I can't plug that one in.. I guess I could just run a wire from the alternator directly to it. The wire itself is grounded right, so I could just plug in the power? Doing this I should then see a connection on the connector correct?
I am deffinitly one to get very frustrated and become blind to the obvious. To me this is not obvious as I am new to the car but I wanted to let you know I know where your coming from.
anyone? Also is it that bad to run the pump without it being in the tank?
Swt_86
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If I had this problem, this is what I'd do:
1 - Either verify or assume the pump was OK. Call Racetronix to see how you could test that. I would not run the pump without it being in the tank with fuel available. It probably uses fuel as a coolant and lubricant for the pumping mechanism - just don't know for sure - not worth taking a chance on ruining a new pump.
2 - Hook up the wiring to the pump & get the sending unit set - hoses connected, electrical contacts connected, pump mounted, fuel filter in place etc.
3 - Test the continuity of the electrical connections from the plug coming out of the tank unit to the connectors on the pump itself. Simple test with a cheap self-powered test light. If you don't have one already buy one. They are a couple of bucks at about any hardware or auto parts store. Now you will know that a) the pump is good and b) you have the ability to power it.
4 - Put the sending unit in the tank, hook up the lines and wires, put the tank back into the car, put fuel in the tank, turn the key on and see if you get fuel pressure at the rail.
5 - try to start the car & watch for fuel pressure. if you are still having problems you can now be reasonably sure the problem is in the circuitry that powers the pump and you can proceed from there. At least the grunt work is behind you at this point.
Remember that test lead is just that. Do NOT leave power hooked up to that lead for operation. The circuitry that powers the pump is designed the way it is for safety reasons. Bypassing it for normal operation is just dumb and dangerous. Only use it to test the pump or drain the tank of fuel. Good luck and let us know how it works. If I were making any bets, I would bet it will fire up. HTH.
Fred
1 - Either verify or assume the pump was OK. Call Racetronix to see how you could test that. I would not run the pump without it being in the tank with fuel available. It probably uses fuel as a coolant and lubricant for the pumping mechanism - just don't know for sure - not worth taking a chance on ruining a new pump.
2 - Hook up the wiring to the pump & get the sending unit set - hoses connected, electrical contacts connected, pump mounted, fuel filter in place etc.
3 - Test the continuity of the electrical connections from the plug coming out of the tank unit to the connectors on the pump itself. Simple test with a cheap self-powered test light. If you don't have one already buy one. They are a couple of bucks at about any hardware or auto parts store. Now you will know that a) the pump is good and b) you have the ability to power it.
4 - Put the sending unit in the tank, hook up the lines and wires, put the tank back into the car, put fuel in the tank, turn the key on and see if you get fuel pressure at the rail.
5 - try to start the car & watch for fuel pressure. if you are still having problems you can now be reasonably sure the problem is in the circuitry that powers the pump and you can proceed from there. At least the grunt work is behind you at this point.
Remember that test lead is just that. Do NOT leave power hooked up to that lead for operation. The circuitry that powers the pump is designed the way it is for safety reasons. Bypassing it for normal operation is just dumb and dangerous. Only use it to test the pump or drain the tank of fuel. Good luck and let us know how it works. If I were making any bets, I would bet it will fire up. HTH.
Fred
