Rattle at high rmp...is it detonation? is my motor pooched?

[Gary Durden]

For me it is easier to remove the front wheels and go in through the wheel well to remove the exhaust manifolds. Not sure what type of set up you have for working on cars. Just something to think about.

 

[Pronto]

Works the same. Since it's round, you can put it in a gauge pod. It also has the bluetooth feature. Theres several posts on using that feature.

 

[jshot]

Ok guys I'm back. Been out on the car today. Gonna remove the headers tomorrow. Today I did find a vacuum leak on the turbo housing line. From a book I have I see a filter on the open Port of the wastegate solenoid. What do I use for that ?

Also here is a pic of the chip. Is this the stock chip ? I did not want to attempt yo remove it from it's holder.

 

[fast86gn]

The open port is suppose to be open. The chip? I don't think so? Anything on the other side of the chip?

 

[jshot]

No. It was blank on the underside

 

[fast86gn]

can you read what the writing says I can't make it out in the pic?

 

[jshot]

Ok I was able to read the chip

 

[Pronto]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hyp-41372/overview/make/buick
Probably better than the stocker but no real data on what the timing is.

 

[jshot]

Ok got the scanmaster in. I have set the TPS. Here are my numbers right now. 0.48 / 4.35 with the floor mat. And 4.53 no mat and pushing thru the floor.

 

[RUQWKNF]

IMO, .48 at idle is just a tad high. I prefer .44 - .46, but every car is different.
Leave the mat out, or pull it closer to the seat so it won't go under the gas pedal when WOT.
4.53 at WOT is not bad, I like it a tad higher but 4.53 should be plenty for Power Enrichment.

What are your BLM and INT numbers at hot idle?
What are your IAC numbers at hot idle?
Are the O2 Mv numbers changing quickly, or slow? O2 Mv numbers are on the default 1st screen, on the left, once the Scanmaster turns on and initializes. Typically 3-5 seconds after first starting the car. This is for the rectangular box Scanmaster 2.1 and 2.2 versions, not the ScanmasterG. I've honestly not had the opportunity to mess with ScanmasterG as of yet.

And lastly, did you address all of the header exhaust leaks mentioned earlier?
If not, you will be chasing your tail with trying to fine tune it.

-Patrick-

 

[jshot]

IMO, .48 at idle is just a tad high. I prefer .44 - .46, but every car is different.
Leave the mat out, or pull it closer to the seat so it won't go under the gas pedal when WOT.
4.53 at WOT is not bad, I like it a tad higher but 4.53 should be plenty for Power Enrichment.

What are your BLM and INT numbers at hot idle?
What are your IAC numbers at hot idle?
Are the O2 Mv numbers changing quickly, or slow? O2 Mv numbers are on the default 1st screen, on the left, once the Scanmaster turns on and initializes. Typically 3-5 seconds after first starting the car. This is for the rectangular box Scanmaster 2.1 and 2.2 versions, not the ScanmasterG. I've honestly not had the opportunity to mess with ScanmasterG as of yet.

And lastly, did you address all of the header exhaust leaks mentioned earlier?
If not, you will be chasing your tail with trying to fine tune it.

-Patrick-

The header is still the welder now. Will post the # when it's running. Hopefully next weekend. Still waiting for some parts to ship in too.

 

[jshot]

Spark plugs out. Top left is cyl #1

 

[RUQWKNF]

Yep, those definitely need to be swapped.
Either some AC Delco R43's or Autolite 23's gapped at a tight .030 should get you squared away.

I don't remember if this was brought up, but do you have any signs of oil leaking from any of the turbo / intercooler / t-body hoses?
You have oil on those plugs and a good bit of carbon fouling. This leads me to believe there's either oil in the intercooler, oil soaked intake and upper plenum, or the turbo oil seal is leaking.
Don't forget to change the O2 sensor, as I'm pretty sure it's fouled by looking at those plugs.
It's best to do it with a plug change as normal maintenance.
Did you swap out the fuel filter too?

Once you have the header leaks fixed up, swap the plugs, O2 sensor and fuel filter, then figure out where the oil is coming from and address/fix it, it will run a million times smoother.

-Patrick-

 

[jshot]

The fuel filter is new yes. I will get a new O2 installed New plugs gapped at .032. I can re do at 030 if need be. No obvious signs of oil from the turbo. Looks like could be getting some from the valve cover breather. The outlet of the intercooler and the throttle body are pretty dirty tho. I will give them a good cleaning. Maybe re-seal the turbo if it's not too hard?


Also take a look at this gem the previous owner left me. Any thoughts if needing repair be or how to repair it ?

 

[RUQWKNF]

With t-body leading edge lip being so thin, it looks like someone has ported the t-body, then dropped it on concrete and it cracked.
As long as it doesn't leak, you should be good. But that is something I would address in the future, as my OCD would get the best of me knowing it was like that.

Plug gaps on .032 should be fine for boost levels under 22, especially since you just swapped out the coil pack and ignition module. Resealing the turbo is not an easy DIY project. It's typically a full blown turbo rebuild by a reputable shop. If it's not showing signs of oil dripping out of the compressor cover discharge, and it has no excessive shaft play, it's probably good.

Does the car still have the stock PCV valve? If it has the stock PCV, it could be sucking in oil and coating your intake and fouling the plugs. Kirban and others still sell the PCV check valve which replaces the stock style PCV and functions the same.

You said it has valve cover breathers, and if by that, do you mean it has both? If so you can rule out the turbo sucking oil out of the stock passengers side valve cover to turbo breather tube.

 

[Pronto]

I'ld go with NGK UR5s and gap at 28.

 

[jshot]

With t-body leading edge lip being so thin, it looks like someone has ported the t-body, then dropped it on concrete and it cracked.
As long as it doesn't leak, you should be good. But that is something I would address in the future, as my OCD would get the best of me knowing it was like that.

Plug gaps on .032 should be fine for boost levels under 22, especially since you just swapped out the coil pack and ignition module. Resealing the turbo is not an easy DIY project. It's typically a full blown turbo rebuild by a reputable shop. If it's not showing signs of oil dripping out of the compressor cover discharge, and it has no excessive shaft play, it's probably good.

Does the car still have the stock PCV valve? If it has the stock PCV, it could be sucking in oil and coating your intake and fouling the plugs. Kirban and others still sell the PCV check valve which replaces the stock style PCV and functions the same.

You said it has valve cover breathers, and if by that, do you mean it has both? If so you can rule out the turbo sucking oil out of the stock passengers side valve cover to turbo breather tube.

It has the stock drivers filler and the passenger breather out of the front of the valve cover

I have a pcv on order already. I have not replaced the coil pack/ignition module. Going to get it running and see where I'm at. The bill is getting sky high already. I want get a baseline with these corrections first.

Looks like the rubber boots on the plastic vacuum line for the map are deteriorating. One is no good. Last person taped it up. Any of these parts available. I noticed this when trying to install my boost gauge.

 

[RUQWKNF]

If you can't locate replacement OEM plastic style tubing and the rubber connectors, just use correct OD vacuum tubing from your local parts store and remove the stock, fragile nylon tubing. Don't forget to zip tie the rubber vacuum hose connections. When those factory rubber connectors dry rot, you will have a vacuum leak that can affect drive ability. Also, the nylon tubing becomes brittle and easy to break just by looking at them.

Yes, these cars can definitely nickle and dime you to death and are no where near as plug and play easy as today's modern stuff.
Keep us posted.

 

[jshot]

Also in Canada shipping and duty doesn't help us

 

[jshot]

If you can't locate replacement OEM plastic style tubing and the rubber connectors, just use correct OD vacuum tubing from your local parts store and remove the stock, fragile nylon tubing. Don't forget to zip tie the rubber vacuum hose connections. When those factory rubber connectors dry rot, you will have a vacuum leak that can affect drive ability. Also, the nylon tubing becomes brittle and easy to break just by looking at them.

Yes, these cars can definitely nickle and dime you to death and are no where near as plug and play easy as today's modern stuff.
Keep us posted.

It has the stock drivers filler and the passenger breather out of the front of the valve cover. I assume this is an inherent problem. That is why intercooler needs cleaning yearly