Rattle at high rmp...is it detonation? is my motor pooched?

[RUQWKNF]

If it still has the breather tube connected to the inlet bell on the turbo like in this picture, then yes. This is the cause of oil getting blown into the intercooler.

If you mean it's the standard small stubby K&N valve cover breather that replaces the breather tube and the port on the turbo inlet bell is capped, then that's good to go. Just pull the intercooler and flush it thoroughly.

https://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/243/Passengers+Side+BREATHER+BY-PASS+KIT+#1580.html

 

[jshot]

If it still has the breather tube connected to the inlet bell on the turbo like in this picture, then yes. This is the cause of oil getting blown into the intercooler.

View attachment 328032


If you mean it's the standard small stubby K&N valve cover breather that replaces the breather tube and the port on the turbo inlet bell is capped, then that's good to go. Just pull the intercooler and flush it thoroughly.

View attachment 328033

https://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/243/Passengers+Side+BREATHER+BY-PASS+KIT+#1580.html

Looks like I need to buy the kit.

 

[Pronto]

You can get the rubber vacuum line fittings in the "help" section at the parts store. They are made by Dorman.

 

[jshot]

You can get the rubber vacuum line fittings in the "help" section at the parts store. They are made by Dorman.

is there any reason i cannot use a brass "T" for vacuum instead of plastic?

 

[Pronto]

You mentioned the map sensor boot and that can be had at Autozone, etc.

 

[dynoman]

Brass is fine .

 

[jshot]

If you can't locate replacement OEM plastic style tubing and the rubber connectors, just use correct OD vacuum tubing from your local parts store and remove the stock, fragile nylon tubing. Don't forget to zip tie the rubber vacuum hose connections. When those factory rubber connectors dry rot, you will have a vacuum leak that can affect drive ability. Also, the nylon tubing becomes brittle and easy to break just by looking at them.

Yes, these cars can definitely nickle and dime you to death and are no where near as plug and play easy as today's modern stuff.
Keep us posted.

are you saying i can run 1/4" line right from the hard line to the fender or do i need to keep the small stuff ?

 

[RUQWKNF]

are you saying i can run 1/4" line right from the hard line to the fender or do i need to keep the small stuff ?

If you mean, over to the MAP sensor, you can simply use vacuum hose that has the same or similar ID of both the hard line off the vacuum block and the MAP sensor. It's not that critical, as most all of us have had no issues using "close" ID sized hose on all vacuum ports. What is critical, is to replace any dry rotted hoses or cracked hard line tubing and make sure to ziptie them at each connection point.

-Patrick-

 

[jshot]

If you mean, over to the MAP sensor, you can simply use vacuum hose that has the same or similar ID of both the hard line off the vacuum block and the MAP sensor. It's not that critical, as most all of us have had no issues using "close" ID sized hose on all vacuum ports. What is critical, is to replace any dry rotted hoses or cracked hard line tubing and make sure to ziptie them at each connection point.

-Patrick-

Will do

 

[jshot]

so a few of my parts are MIA in transit. this will set me back. Will report back.

 

[jshot]

I just picked up a fuel pressure regulator. is there a way to tell if the the pump is upgraded? maybe an aftermarket pump is capable of higher pressures?

there us a hotwire kit installed

 

[Pronto]

Yes, you must drop the tank and get the part number off it.

 

[jshot]

ok gang. had a 3 day weekend here, spent it in the garage. have it all back together again and running. My aim tomorrow is to get you guys the idle numbers and the list of corrections i made.

right now i think i still have an exhaust leak at the crossover pipe. Possibly because i used header gaskets and it has changed the spacing? (remfelx)

 

[jshot]

got it all buttoned up. i have listed the corrections and also my hot idle #'s. let me know what you think.

repaired DS header
all new vacuum lines, silicone & zip tie (there were major leaks)
top end cleaner
cleaned intercooler
Passenger valve cover filter
PVC valve
Plugs @ 0.032
O2 sensor
set tps
160 thermostat (was 195)
Scanmaster G
Boost gauge
FPR...42 line off (fuel pump still unknown)

here are my #s

Closed loop
o2mv...142-849
MAF...5
LV8...39-42
V...13.8
INT...124-130
BLM...127
AIR TEMP...77.7
TPS...0.48
IAC...20
O2CC...0-250 loop in 50sec

 

[Pronto]

That's a good start. A combination of those issues could have led to the knock. It would be wise to hook a fp test guage up and tape it to the windshield. Make sure you're seeing 1 to 1 raise in pressure. The pump still could be failing. At any rate the car should be running better with the exhaust leaks fixed. Oh, run 93 if you can get it and I think a TT 5.7 chip would be a better choice than what you have.

 

[jshot]

Ok. Here is a pic of cruising speed numbers.

Also for pressure.
Line on 32 psi
5# boost 43 psi.
14# was 54 psi.
When I removed the gauge the fuel was a little bronzy color.

High rpm getting knock 3 deg. Have attached scanmaster G logger pic.

 

[MikeS]

Based on the numbers you just posted it seems like the fuel pump isn't keeping up at high rpm, running lean, and knocking. If you set the fpr at 42psi line off, you should be seeing 56psi at 14#. Like Pronto said, a tt5.7 chip would help, and you can pull a degree or two of timing in 3rd if necessary if you're still getting knock after the fuel issue is fixed.

 

[RUQWKNF]

I agree with what Mike said.
Earlier in post #74, you said fp was set to 42psi with vacuum line off. Is that still where it was set when you saw the knock?
In that 2nd screen shot, the 3* of knock shows at 3725 rpm, but your TPS is only at 3.16. Was this a WOT screen shot log? If so, you need to verify what the WOT TPS numbers are. If that was at WOT, I don't think 3.16 TPS is enough for the computer to trigger / engage power enrichment mode.
So do this.
Key on, car off, floor mat not under the gas pedal, floor it as hard as you can and report back what your WOT TPS number is.

One more question. Did you swap out the factory fuel filter? Located on the drivers side frame rail, almost center of the car under the door.

With you saying the fuel was a little bronzy in color, that makes me think that the fuel filter could be clogged and you have crude in the bottom of the tank. Swap out the fuel filter if you haven't already and the very next thing I would do is get a good / new fuel pump. With an unknown age or type pump in the tank, that would be mandatory maintenance if it were mine. Take your time and don't cross thread the fittings when reinstalling the new one. Also, pretty much any local parts store fuel filter will work. I prefer Wix or AC Delco, but have used Autozone's Duralast brand in the past without any issue.

And last question. What brand and octane of fuel are you running?
The tt5.7 chip will allow you to turn the timing down, as Mike said and will dramatically help driveability. I would definitely add it to your future list.

If you haven't swapped the fuel filter, just doing that will help some. You're doing everything right so far, and once the fuel system is squared away, you will be able to start upping the boost and making some power. Just gotta get the fuel system up to par first.
Let us know more about the knock event and if it happened at WOT, or just partial throttle acceleration.

-Patrick-

 

[Pronto]

That chip according Summit is good for 91 and higher. I think that chip is part of the issue. It probably be worth it to drop the tank. That pump is most likely stock and dying a slow death. Looking inside could tell if there is rust in the tank. The fuel filter should be replace for sure but if the tank got rust it will just get clogged.

 

[jshot]

I agree with what Mike said.
Earlier in post #74, you said fp was set to 42psi with vacuum line off. Is that still where it was set when you saw the knock?
In that 2nd screen shot, the 3* of knock shows at 3725 rpm, but your TPS is only at 3.16. Was this a WOT screen shot log? If so, you need to verify what the WOT TPS numbers are. If that was at WOT, I don't think 3.16 TPS is enough for the computer to trigger / engage power enrichment mode.
So do this.
Key on, car off, floor mat not under the gas pedal, floor it as hard as you can and report back what your WOT TPS number is.

One more question. Did you swap out the factory fuel filter? Located on the drivers side frame rail, almost center of the car under the door.

With you saying the fuel was a little bronzy in color, that makes me think that the fuel filter could be clogged and you have crude in the bottom of the tank. Swap out the fuel filter if you haven't already and the very next thing I would do is get a good / new fuel pump. With an unknown age or type pump in the tank, that would be mandatory maintenance if it were mine. Take your time and don't cross thread the fittings when reinstalling the new one. Also, pretty much any local parts store fuel filter will work. I prefer Wix or AC Delco, but have used Autozone's Duralast brand in the past without any issue.

And last question. What brand and octane of fuel are you running?
The tt5.7 chip will allow you to turn the timing down, as Mike said and will dramatically help driveability. I would definitely add it to your future list.

If you haven't swapped the fuel filter, just doing that will help some. You're doing everything right so far, and once the fuel system is squared away, you will be able to start upping the boost and making some power. Just gotta get the fuel system up to par first.
Let us know more about the knock event and if it happened at WOT, or just partial throttle acceleration.

-Patrick-

i did install a new filter.
the test drive was was with 42 line off pressure (line back on of course) . running 91 octane right now. will put 94 when i get down to Empty.

the know was not a WOT. was at full boost almost WOT. TPS is set correctly.

Looks like pump is the next thing and clean the tank while its out. as for injectors what are my options for cleaning the current ones? contemplating just a chip or chip/injector combo. right not running stock wastegate non adjustable.