Razor, I have a problem with your kit

[Pablo]

I installed it sunday and no worky

I press the test button and my power injection bulb does not illuminate nor does the pump spin. The other bulbs DO illuminate.

I double checked my connections, even reconnected. I have voltage from the map on the green as verified with my DVM.

I put the dvm to the power dist. box and lo and behold it has 12 volts on the neg. AND the positive once I turn the key to the on position. I disconnect everything, remove the power dist box from the column, have it dangling down, jiggle some things around i guess, power vanishes from the power dist box when key is in the on position. I then hit the test button, I hear the pump go, i see the green light illuminate, and i get 12 volts on the dvm from the power dist box.

I figure something jiggled wrong or something. So I take the box and remount it on the column and clean everything up thinking im gonna go for a test drive. Didnt happen, problem appeared again, only thing i did was move the thing back onto the column.

This time I disconnected the pump wires, disconnected the map wire, only wires connected are the grey wire from the bulb and the power wires to the power dist. box

with nothing else connected and key in the ON position I have power on both the positive and the negative.

It really sounds like a short within the power dist. box to me.

I sure hope im doing something stupidly wrong or im definately not going to be the happiest camper. Being cramped up under a dash for hours with a roll cage door beam in the way is no fun.

 

[Razor]

Pablo,
Your suppossed to have power on both the "+" and "-" terminals when the ignition is "ON". See the system always applies 12 volts to the positive lead on the pump. Then once it activates, it progressively applies ground to the black.

You didnt mention if getting the boost up to 4 PSI triggered it as well.

The test is as follows, turn the ignition on, turn the blue knob all the way clockwise, then hit the test button.

Now what should happen is the "turnon LED" will illuminate, and if you measure the voltage on the terminals on the box... you'll notice that the black "-" terminal reads less than the "+" terminal. This difference in voltage is how much drive the pump has.

Another way is to put your DVM meter across the pump wires on the little box.. and when you hit the test button you will see a few volts depending on position of blue knob and "Initial" control setting in the box.

When your working on the car and an issue arises.. grab the phone and drop me a call.. i'll walk you threw it and your down time is minimized. Well as long as your not working on it at 2 am in the morning

Post back, or call me anytime during the day.

 

[Pablo]

phew, thanks for the clarification. I woulda called but it was 7 here (pacific) and i figured 10 there woulda been too late.

Im gonna go and test it again.

I might mention that as I crossed 4 psi of boost the power injection bulb did come on but I dont think the pump is pumping as I have not improved my boost tolerance at all, I bumped the pressure up a hair and i hit knock at like 18 psi

 

[Razor]

Ok.. now lets work on what and why.. dont ya just love modded cars

Drop me a call when you get a chance.. its easier and faster than the net..

So the power injection bulb is coming on.. Great..

Talk to ya latter..

 

[Pablo]

Ok, yep, im a dumbass

I got it all figured out... I wanted to take a second look at things before I called you and now I understand how the thing works and how to tune it.

I went for a test drive and started inching up the boost, im at about 22 psi and its running savagely man, awesome kit, the tunability is great once you get the concepts. I had to lower the turn on and increase the initial quite a bit. I had to lower FP a boatload and will probably have to lower it more still as I replace more fuel with alcohol.

Right now there seems to be a fairly fine line (maybe im just not used to the initial knobs touchyness) between flooding the engine and knock, but once you find the sweet spot it runs like a bat outta hell. I hope to throw on my wide band from my other car to really get serious about it and hope fully get up past 25psi eventually.

I have an outrageously cheap line on Isopropyl alcohol, like nearly free,
hows this stuff sound to you:
ACS Grade
flash point 53F TCC
Assay by GC, min 99.97%
water, max 0.022%
IBP, 82 C
Dry point 82.1 C
acidity as acetic acid, wt % 0.011

it seems like its pretty good stuff, isnt most isopropyl loaded with water?


Anyways, great kit, the install is very clean and transparent, looks factory, and the tunability is great. Just as suggestion, you might look into revising your documentation with it. The part about the test button really threw me off i was expecting the motor to go full blast and bog down my engine which it does not. It really seems like it doesnt make the engine do anything at all at idle.

 

[Razor]

What are you running for a chip? Post this and i'll help ya dial er in.

The ISO I havent had anyone doing anything serious with it. I'm glad we have you for a test bed .. If it aint knockin... its a rockin.. Keep an eye on your EGT's and O2's.. keep them in the safe zone..1500 and high 700's until your at a track and can start squeezing the motor..

thanks for the tip on the manual.. I will add in the next batch of 50 .. hehe

Report back.. Sounds like a mean combo when its figured out.

 

[Pablo]

its a street chip for 91 I believe it was made by nick micale, the previous owner had it done. I have another chip for race gas aswell. I dont have the details on the chip. I sorta jumped head first into turbo buicks so im still catching up. I do have a fair amount of tuning knowledge on SD systems for thirdgen F bodies.

I was doing them on my firebird for awhile and feel pretty confident with that setup so im looking to inch my way into the TR realm


another thing I noticed is that my turn on knob is nearly maxed counter clockwise, would you say thats to be expected with a setup like mine? I was thinking maybe that is the case because when i hit boost it doesnt take more than basically an instant to go from 0 to full boost... there is some lag but once it spools it spools. Im sure my 3600 stall converter has a good deal to do with that aswell

Ive never driven or ridden in a stock TR but I would imagine it probably builds boost more slowly what with the stock converter and more restrictive aspiration thus allowing the alky to start later since it has more time to get going.


and yeah ill definately be the test bed for iso, at the rate i get it its basically an incentive to use it exclusively.

 

[Razor]

Ok.. slow down a little on the boost.

read this first..

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=147348

Next.. contact Eric Marshall.. eric@turbotweak.com and have him make you a chip for the 72's + alky.

See regular street chips will more than likely drop in too much fuel.
Alcohol acts like a 7th injector and must be accounted for in the fuel trims within the chip.

I too have my ability tomake my own chips and wont.. let the professionals do what they do best.

Also make sure your injectors are 72's and not 75's.. you'll pull your hair if you make this mistake with the chip.

There are other excellent chips.. the ME-r Maxeffort, the Extreme from Bailey.. etc..

Your tuning skills on a Buick i'm questioning.. make some time to call me tommorrow during the day and i'll do my best to give you the skinny on getting the motor up-n-running where it needs to be with minimal pain involved. And carnage