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Real world costs of building a 9sec. capable 109 motor (kinda long)

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nolanator

@none_more_black
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
570
I've seen a lot of threads over the past year or so asking about the approximate expense of building/rebuilding this motor, so I wanted to go into a little detail. Obviously, common sense would dictate that the quicker you would like to go, the more you will need to spend, so where as an 11 second combination can be had with about $1,000.00 worth of work, a high 10 second combination may probably set you back another $2,500 on top of that (assuming you already own an LC2 in running condition. Trying to get into the mid/high 9 second range is where (in my experience) it starts to get a little expensive.

I started out with a mid 10sec combination. It was a 0.010 over billet capped 109 block with a factory crank and rods. The pistons were Forged JEs, and my cam was a small 206/206 Comp hydraulic roller. My 8445 heads had been ported, and my factory intake had been ported as well. Motivated by an older Precision TE64 (66mm) I was able to get down into mid 10s on a 91/alky tune from TurboTweak, with a 2.5" downpipe!

That's the combination that came with my car. The motor was essentially brand new and just been purchased as a longblock for $4500 a couple months prior. So, how expensive can it be to shave off a fraction of a second from a quarter mile ET? Well, not very if you only want to do it once or twice. Of course, there is more than one way to skin a cat, so don't take this as gospel. This is just the route that I took.

THIS IS ASSUMING SOMEONE IS STARTING OUT WITH A RUNNING MOTOR, AND ALL COSTS APPROXIMATE, BUT FAIRLY ACCURATE BASED ON WHAT I PAID.

SHORTBLOCK:
-Billet main caps -$180
-Eagle 3.400 forged crank -$550
-Federal Mogul 107M Main Bearings -$85
-Molnar Tech connecting rods -$525
-Rod Bearings -$75
-JE Forged Pistons -$600
-Comp roller (custom grind) -$300
-Cam Bearings -$90
-Comp Roller Lifters -$300
-BHJ Internal Balancer -$480
-SFI Flexplate -$65
-Misc. Gaskets -$100
-ARP Head Studs -$120
-ARP Main Studs -$80
-Machine and Assembly -$850
$4,400

TOP END / INDUCTION:
-TA Aluminum Heads -$1900-
-Misc. Upgrades -$50
-T&D Shaft Rockers -$650
-Pushrods -$50
-Felpro 1000 Head Gaskets -$120
-Champion Intake -$750
-Accufab Throttlebody -$300
-Precision 6766 -$950
-4" Intake Pipe/ Filter -$125
-Precision FMIC -$700
$5,595

FUEL:
-Racetronix 120lb Low Z Injectors -$350
-Racetronix 680LPH pump -$800
-Racetronix Teflon AN Line Kit -$475
-Racetronix Hotwire Kit -$65
-Accufab Regulator -$130
-MIsc. -$50
$1870

ENGINE MANAGEMENT:

-Powerlogger -$265
-TT SD2 -$350
-Modified ECM -$200
-AEM UEGO -$200
$1015


STANDING TOTAL: $12,880

There were other expenses involved such as upgrading my downpipe/EWG combo, gettting a new exhaust, heat wrapping hot components, and a hand full of other things, but this is basically it. Looking back on spending this money seems wildly impractical considering the cost of slapping a 76mm turbo to a junkyard 5.3, but oh well.
 
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I would add TR6 ignition & wires , new driveshaft & yokes , especially with the trans brake , and aftermarket axles .
 
I would add TR6 ignition & wires , new driveshaft & yokes , especially with the trans brake , and aftermarket axles .

I'm holding off on the TR6 based on a recommendation, but a new driveshaft is certainly on my to do list.
 
So you went mid 10's on a stock trans?you are talking about a 9 sec combo did you run 9s yet?I see alot of things that have been left out and things that aren't needed.
 
, so where as an 11 second combination can be had with about $1,000.00 worth of work, a high 10 second combination may probably set you back another $2,500 on top of that
That's really light.the transmission will not hold up to 11 sec passes let alone 10sec.an Eaton posi,axles,drives haft loop and alot of safety equipment to legally run those times starts adding up quick.really the whole car needs to be addressed and upgraded to run 9s and live for a while.
 
So you went mid 10's on a stock trans?you are talking about a 9 sec combo did you run 9s yet?I see alot of things that have been left out and things that aren't needed.

Lol no, this thread was strictly touching on the motor and supporting mods. I have an Extreme Automatics Stage III in my car.
 
There's a big difference from running 10.5 and 9.1. You don't mention how fast you want to go other than 9s. Aside from the actual engine there's the trans/conveter and rest of the car to make legal to run 9s. No way around having to spend $ to run 9s. Doesn't matter what you build, it costs to play.
 
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There's a big difference from running 10.5 and 9.1. You don't mention how fast you want to go other than 9s. Aside from the actual engine there's the trans/conveter and rest of the car to make legal to run 9s. No way around having to spend $ to run 9s. Doesn't matter what you build, it costs to play.

Again. I just want to emphasise that this thread is only touching on the motor and supporting mods to operate the motor.

I have the transmission needed to run this setup. My immediate goal is 9.99, and the capability of this motor exceeds that, so yes, anywhere in the 9s is okay with me.

PS. For attempting to offer useable info, people are being awfully critical of this. ?
 
If that all it takes I just need more fuel and a bigger turbo.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
Again. I just want to emphasise that this thread is only touching on the motor and supporting mods to operate the motor.

I have the transmission needed to run this setup. My immediate goal is 9.99, and the capability of this motor exceeds that, so yes, anywhere in the 9s is okay with me.

PS. For attempting to offer useable info, people are being awfully critical of this. ?

Don't think the people that have reply to your thread, Spool, pronto and tt/a are being critical. It's more of how you worded your thread. These guys are top notch in what they do.
 
Its nice to see someone actually admit they cant get into the nine's with 1500.00 bucks and pump gas. Seems to me thats a fairly close number for the motor. All the other things and safety equipment could easily run you another 12,000, for all the guys wanna run low 10's and into the nines better get the dust out of their wallets, oh well its only money.
 
Gene Van Horn said:
Its nice to see someone actually admit they cant get into the nine's with 1500.00 bucks and pump gas. Seems to me thats a fairly close number for the motor. All the other things and safety equipment could easily run you another 12,000, for all the guys wanna run low 10's and into the nines better get the dust out of their wallets, oh well its only money.
The rest of the car is built or is in the process of being built around the capability of the motor, and its a street car, so I don't have plans of putting anything safety specific in it other than a driveshaft loop.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post the list. I know basically what the cost of my motor is but It would probably be sickening to know what 24 years of ownership has cost.
 
I would guess 20k, minimum, port the heads, you'll have 3-4k in them to do it right to go fast. Spend at least 2-3k on the turbo, and 1k on the converter. Add tax, and shipping, so that adds up. 850 for machining and putting it together seems low, double that and round to 2k. Skip the powerlogger route, just get XFI. Also think about a complete new wiring harness to get good grounds and everything tip top, these cars are old.
 
I don't plan on running into the 9's, I'm shooting for mid 10s. I'll have about $10 in my motor, maybe a little less. Add trans and converter that is another $4k. On my to do list after I get the car put together, engine and trans, is driveshaft and rear end. When all is said and done, including the price of the car, I will have spend $33k to make it mid to low 10s car. I see mid 10s cars for sale around $15 to $18k.
 
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