Rear Brake Line Install ?

[salvageV6]

Anyone replace the rear hard line from the frame mounted junction point to the proportioning valve?

I will have access to a lift and good tools just wondering if you can get at the bulkhead fitting and stock mounting points or if you had to fab up a new junction point and secure the line in some other way such as new clips or the ever popular zip ties.

Gonna get the classic tube stainless line ordered tomorrow.

Rotted out right at the bulkhead fitting, got the Russell braided line installed from that bulkhead to the split point and new lines in to the rear wheels already.

TIA.

 

[tom h]

I succesfully replaced the rear line, including all original hold-down clips, while working under jackstands. The gas tank was out (unrelated), and i dont have the OEM crossflow muffler, so that gave me extra working room.

It may not have been necessary, but I got "stuck" and removed the transmission rear cross-support to allow more space for maneuvering the new line.

I struggled for several hours with the new line, and I more-or-less accidentally figured out how to "roll" the line into place. Getting the line into space above the rear axle and the frame cross-member was the most frustrating. It was like those puzzles of 2 interlocking bent nails, which seem impossible yet will easily roll into place once you know the trick.

Keep the new line unrestrained and free to move around, until you get this rear portion installed. Then work forward.

I'd also advise a dab of antiseize on the threads of the Inverted Flare nuts.

Soon I will tackle replacing all the fueldlines with stainless replacements, that should be "fun"

 

[salvageV6]

Thanks for the tips.

I did see the access hole for the fitting, and I do have one inline double flare splice point near the fuel filter I could use if for some reason I can't make it go to the prop. valve in one try.

Neverseize is always a good idea.

I already have a bunch of braided 3/8" teflon for fuel feed line that hopefully wont' be in the way back there.

Car runs too damm good to part out just yet.

I think I'm gonna order the whole set of lines and probably put the rear two stainless ones on the GN at some point in time since I already made the two rear lines for the WE4 from bent off the shelf tube.

Cheaper in the long run that way buying the full kit.

 

[salvageV6]

Got it in, took about 3 hours on the lift, had to replace one wheel cylinder as well, bleeder was rounded off and the cylinder was well rotted anyways.

Re-tied the rubber and teflon fuel lines and my hot wire as well, and all the factory tie points were relatively easy to get at once we jacked the rear of the body up about an inch and a half to where it's supposed to be.

Won't be easy to get at those fuel line tie points to install hard line on one of these cars.

Braided rubber line would be the way to go.

All the body bushings are now sitting on the frame in most areas. :frown:

Front hard lines at the wheels are a bit questionable about an inch back from the fittings where exposed but perfect elsewhere like along the frame and at the prop. valve area. I'll probably use the short drivers stainless classic tube line replacement and just make a splice on the passenger side about 3 inches back from the wheel fitting.

I think we still have a couple of years/winters left in it.

 

[Red Regal T]

Winter conditions totally destroys the underside of these cars.

 

[Pronto]

Not if you don't drive them in the winter! :wink: