Rear end upgrade

and if you go strange eliminators and this isnt a track only vehicle , they have street eliminators that have tapered rollers (like your front wheel bearings) instead of the balls that the drag bearing has
 
I will be going with the Moser Axel and the C-Clip eliminator. Its 30 bucks more for that C-Clip upset.
 
I will be going with the Moser Axel and the C-Clip eliminator. Its 30 bucks more for that C-Clip upset.
 
I broke stock gears at low 10's and broke a stock axle at 1.50 60fts and I'm way out of shape.
It's always a chance, but the factory spider gears are usually the weak point...in every GM rear. I'd take my chance with the ring and pinion for now. My point in the post was solely that...he'd be better off budgeting for the Eliminators over new gears...instead of new gears and NO protection against a broke axle.
Hope that made sense.
His car should be low 10's...high 9's easy...so he's in the area of breaking almost anything.
 
dennys best nitrous pro 3.5" with forged yokes for trans and rear will set you back just over 800 clams
depending on your goals a 3" steel or 3.5 aluminum would be fine
the limiter on your combo right now is the 45A which should keep you in low-mid 10s high 120s low 130s if pushed ..but that turbo could be changed and the driveshaft would need to be up to the new performance level

pst or dennys should be able to guide you to what will work
i would recommend that whatever you get dont buy the cheapest replacement you can find , get it with 1350 ujoints and if using stock 8.5 rear yoke youll need the rear ujoint to be a conversion to 3r
 
I was thinking about doing the F- body rear disc brake upgrade. Will that work with the upgrade that I'm doing?
 
i went to a ford 9 with the rear disk upgrade after breaking an upgraded gn rear,its something you should consider.the 9 is more expensive up front but if you leave a weak link in the gn rear or it just breaks and spend 1000+ its not fun.just a thought,not saying a gn rear with all the goodies can't be made to work,but the 9 inch piece is much stouter.
 
I think the Denny's is the best. I have the Pro Nitrous ready 3.5" with the forged yoke and pinion yoke.
It was pricy but I feel that's its a done issue.
 
Forget rear discs. You won't be able to hold as much boost as with drums. Then you are stuck using a transbrake, and then you will eat the ring gear, not to mention the transbrake needs the suspension set right on. Foot brake is more forgiving.
 
Forget rear discs. You won't be able to hold as much boost as with drums. Then you are stuck using a transbrake, and then you will eat the ring gear, not to mention the transbrake needs the suspension set right on. Foot brake is more forgiving.
Listen to Rob...
1000rwhp and a handful of 8 sec time slips can't be wrong...
 
i always heard that the drums held more as well but after actually making the switch i was surprised.
 
I will keep the drums, Can't be wrong from the guy with 1000+hp and a 8's car. Also are you guys running a power master or Vacuum breaks?
 
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Hey guy can you look over my list one more time brfore I place my order today?

Moser Engineering 9200 - Moser Engineering C-Clip Eliminator Kits

C-Clip Eliminator, Billet Aluminum, 1.398 in. Diameter Seat, Stock Axles, GM, 10/12-Bolt, Kit
MSR-9200
$159.97
Moser Engineering A103004 - Moser Engineering Replacement C-Clip Axles

Axles, Direct Fit, C-Clip, Rear, 1541H Steel, 30-Spline, Buick, 8.5 in., Pair
MSR-A103004
$259.97
Yukon Gear & Axle YK GM8.5-HD - Yukon Gear & Axle Master Overhaul Kits

Ring and Pinion Gear Installation Kit, Master Overhall Kit, 30 Spline, GM 8.5 in., Kit
YGA-14088
$195.32
Yukon Gear & Axle YDGGM8.5-3-30-1 - Yukon Gear & Axle Dura Grip Positraction Carriers

Dura Grip Positraction Carrier, Traction-Loc, GM 8.5/8.6 in., 30 Spline, 2.73 Up Ratio, Each
YGA-26016
$453.00
Part Subtotal $1,068.26
 
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